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Replaced resistor and blower motor/cage

T

twoleos617

New member
I got both parts out with no problem and replaced with new parts. Reinserted the fuse. Turned key to the on position but got nothing. Actuated door moves position just fine. Checked volts at blower connector-nothing. Check volts at resistor connector- nothing. Where do these wires trace back to? Thoughts?
 


Only had time to wiggle it from the front end with the key, not that that would do much good anyway. I'll try to get behind the dash and explore some more and continue my forum search.
 
I've never had luck jiggling my key; the ignition switch just starts working when it wants.

Do your "auto on" lights work? If they don't work, and the fan doesn't work, I would suspect the ignition switch is faulty.
 
Have the same problem. My 2002 Grand Prix blower will only work on Hi. (There is a delay before it will start blowing. ) I replaced to blower resistor assy. but does the same thing. Also noticed the auto lights are affected also. The auto lights will come on with blower switch on 1 or on high.( will not come on on 2-3 4 settings.( When problem started, blower would work sometimes in all speeds, then started losing lower settings one at a time. Now only have high speed, but there si a delay for it to start. Any suggestions?
 


Also sounds like the ignition switch. When mine was acting up my dic would reset mpgs whenever it would lose connection.

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I would lose auto lights blower motor and the dic would act up. Being a gm product my first assumption was also the resistor lol But my went bad on a 10 degree day in michigan so I ripped through the blower motor, resistor and ignition switch in about half a day!

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Not sure without checking the diagram, but on many vehicle heater fans speed control circuits (my Fords had them), there is a thermal overload fuse in series with the speed control resistors to protect them from overcurrent in the case of a fan motor stall or high mechanical drag prevents the motor from coming up to speed quickly. The maximum speed position of the switch typically bypasses all of the speed control resistors and the thermal fuse so the fan will still run in fast if that thermal fuse has popped. They usually are integral to the speed control resistor assembly. Not sure if replacements are readily available anymore, but Radio Shack used to carry thermal fuses that are used in toasters and coffee makers that were functionally equivalent to those of the fan controllers. I had to buy a replacement resistor assembly for my old 94 Escort when its thermal fuse went. Not too pricey. The fact that you state that the fan comes up to speed slowly in the fast speed position strongly suggests that you may have high drag in the fan motor bearings or between the fan impeller and housing that are causing high current draw on start up which would have popped a thermal fuse protecting the speed control resistors. The current through any DC motor at the instant of start up is extremely high, as the motor comes up to speed, the in-rush current quickly dissipates. On my Fords (97 Taurus and 84 Escort) snow and ice got down into the fan impellers and locked up the motors. if you leave the fan in anything but max speed, that takes out the thermal fuse when you start up the car with a locked up fan motor, if you leave it in fast, it will take out the main fan fuse at the fuse panel which is much easier to replace. Lesson learned..keep your fan motor speed control at max in cold weather when starting up the car!
 
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