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Removing collector flange bolts without breaking anything.

BackInBlack

New member
Anyone have any tips on removing the fasteners from the collector outlet flange? (Where the catalytic converter bolts up to)

I'll ultimately be doing this in my driveway on ramps, with hand tools. I have enough extensions to get the socket up there, but no amount of penetrating oil, heat, muscle or gratuitous profanity seems to want to budge these bastards. I'd like also not to break the studs/bolts (whatever they are), as I'm not real fond of trying to drill and tap holes up there...
 


Dang! I've always had good luck with PB Blaster. Remember, they go through the DP flange and are threaded into the rear mani's flange. If you haven't already, apply a generous amount of fluid to the joint from above. Gravity will be your friend in this situation, and you don't have to worry about getting spray in your eyes.
 
I just removed my DP a few weeks ago and had the same problems, BIB. i had to use the longest breaker bar i had, and only after about 3 days of constant PB blaster and running the engine. i was only actually able to get 3 of the bolts for my stock DP off, with one stubborn one near the O2 sensor. i had to acutally cut the pipe and use a pipe wrench on the pipe itself to get the last bolt turning. it eventually worked, however, i dont know if this in an option for you, and it would be a bit for difficult to cut/utilize the pipe closer to the manifolds
 
I recently did it from the top, just rock the engine as far forward as you can get it(I used ratchet straps to the rad support) and you can lean over and get em with a 6-sided wrench and a "persuader" like another wrench or something, and put some antisieze on em, so next time is easier......

On a side note, the fisrt time I removed them was from the bottom, 18" 3/8 drive breaker bar, 3 extensions, one universal joint extension and a deep socket, and it came out ok, they are far enough up that they don't get nearly as much road crap as the cat to resonator bolts get :)
 
If you have access to one I always use an acetyelene(sp?) torch till its cherry red then come loose with hand power if need be.
 
If you have access to one I always use an acetyelene(sp?) torch till its cherry red then come loose with hand power if need be.

The problem with that is if you have to drill the bolts out, you'd be better off buying a new manifold. That makes them EXTREMELY hard, it's like heat tempering them.

The way I do it, make sure you have a good wrench, stanley isn't gonna cut it here, because it needs to fit the nut really snug and good. Use ample amounts of penetrating oil, and start to wiggle the nut back and forth. What you're doing here is breaking the threads loose, spray oil on it again, and tighten it back down...this works the oil deeper into the threads. Eventually you'll be able to back them all the way out. It takes time, but not as long as drilling out broken studs and bolts.
 


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