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Removing alternator housing



chitownchevy said:
Well I guess I dont have to rip that altenator apart anymore. Desoldering=painting in one peice
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take your time to mask off the alternator good and you shouldnt have any issues several light coats are better than a few heavy coats, as well as your less likely to have runs in the paint your less likely for liquid paint to get into the rotor/stator
 
A local carolina club GP memebr I know said he tried to do what I am doing and messed up his alternator. He directed me to a local mom and pop auto electrical shop that will take it apart. So I am off tomorrow to see what it will cost me. I hope I didnt mess mine up. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
 
thats likely your best bet...ma&pa joints kick ass! i got a bunch of nipondenso starter brushes from a joint once...saved me a ****load of $ on chrysler/mitsu starters
they will also likely have a media blaster cabinet, have them clean the parts fer ya.
 
turbocharged406sbc said:
thats likely your best bet...ma&pa joints kick ass! i got a bunch of nipondenso starter brushes from a joint once...saved me a ****load of $ on chrysler/mitsu starters
they will also likely have a media blaster cabinet, have them clean the parts fer ya.
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Still no word, dropped it off today. Hope to get it back tomorow. When I took it in the guy said yeah that alt is a PITA to take apart.
 


Picked it up today and dropped it off at the chrome shop. The guy said when I bring it back for re-assembly we'll settle up then. Gotta love mom and pop shops!
 
Im definitely interested in what everything costs you. Are you having it (the alternator) re-wound for higher output or just leaving it stock?
 
Depends on how cheap I can do it for. I went way over budget this spring for the car show. I bought a WS6 hood, 2003 limited edition spoiler, SD air dam, U bend delete, SLP GTX tips, Polished torque stars, Intense poly bushings, High polish dogbones, RAT diagonal brackets ( my speedbuilt wont work with the new hood), ZZP custom painted valve covers, TB heat shield, ZZP Chrome valve cover breather, Billet coolant cap, PRJ fuel rails, & All new badging and lettering from reflective concepts,.:th_sign-help:
 


Just let me know, I have been kinda eyeing a set. You have any pics of them you can post up so I can make sure they are what Im thinking they are?
 


Those are indeed different than I was thinking but I like them. So if the local guy doesnt take them please PM me and if I can I'll take them off your hands.
 
SyntheticShield said:
Those are indeed different than I was thinking but I like them. So if the local guy doesnt take them please PM me and if I can I'll take them off your hands.
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Scotty,
I have them listed on the southeast GP forum. I paid 169.99 plus shipping from PFYC last year. They are in like new condition. I havent set a price. I was throwing it out there to see what anyone offers.
BTW the smileys on here are sweet, my fav > :burnrubber0:
 
I pay a shop $50.00 labor to professionally disassemble and reassemble my alternators. thats what they do there, starters and alternators only.

Alternator1.jpg

Alternator2.jpg

Alternator3.jpg


When they put them back together, they can add anything you want. Bearings, brushes, rectifiers. They can even order different coil windings making them a high output alternator if you feel the need to do that. Common belief is installing a smaller alternator pulley will make more power, no...just wears your s**t out faster. :th_doh: We (the shop and I) have also been experimenting using two rectifiers, one internal, and one external. But thats hush-hush.:th_gossip1:

I then take them to another shop, there they will polish the case to a mirror shine, and hard chrome the pulley, pulley nut, and the 4 case bolts. Hard chrome is not your standard chrome plating...it will put up with the abuse of wear and tear with out flaking or cracking off the part. More use it gets, the more polished it becomes.

If you polish your alternator, and do not take it apart, the dust from sanding and polishing will get down inside, and cause your bearings to wear our prematurely and play hell on your brushes. No matter how careful you are...it will happen. Thats why when i am doing these up for others, I have it done right. I don't want them to have to ever come back to me for problems that could of been avoided.

When finished...they come out looking great.
2alternatorsoutside.jpg


Chrome plate for show, and on a vehicle thats not driven a lot. Chrome plating traps in heat, and will cause premature failure, but hey, it looks good going down in flames don't it?

I polish mine, adding nothing to the case that can trap heat in, you want these to run as cool as possible. Again...:th_doh:

~F~
 
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