• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

remote start on 08 GP base not working

bluebsh

New member
I have a 2008 Base GP, it came with remote start, which has worked perfectly until this past month after the dealer replaced my power steering pump, after that it's a piece of #$%#...

When I do the lock then remote start and hold it in until the starter starts it sounds like its fine then after the starter turns its like the starter gives up after a second of trying and you hear the engine fizzle out... try again same thing... get in the car and do hte ignition key turn starts with no problems
I have absolutly no problems with the key in the ignition starting... I assumed they used the same system to start the car just one is triggered wirelessly...
why would remote start fail when key turn works perfectly? or did my dealer screw something up?!... or do I need to repair the key-fob or something?
 


I think a check engine light disables it all together I dont think it would still try to crank

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 
He could be confusing the relay sound with thinking the starter is doing something. It makes weird noises like its going to "try" to start it, but then doesn't.
 
Check engine light does not come on, there is no ODBC-ii codes, this is not a relay, it is the same exact sound you get when you turn the key, it is cranking and then it cuts out before the engine starts but only when you use remote start... do it from the inside ignition key and it works perfectly
 


when the remot start fails you you get the noise like the engine is still spinning and dieing then a noise like you get when you put a playing card in bike spokes for a second... after that if you start if from inside you can tell the last start had trouble because it takes twice as long to crank the engine before it catches in the run state
 
they do go through the same system though right? the key ignition just sends a "start engine" signal to the starter controller. like it does with remote start, none of the old hold the key to start stuff, just turn let go and its started... the dealer wants to replace the starter, but I highly doubt its the starter as it works fine inside the car
 
when the remot start fails you you get the noise like the engine is still spinning and dieing then a noise like you get when you put a playing card in bike spokes for a second... after that if you start if from inside you can tell the last start had trouble because it takes twice as long to crank the engine before it catches in the run state


If you are getting a sound like that the bendix might not be engaging the flexplate.
 
but only when its a remote start?... that's what has me lost, I have never had a problem with a direct key in the ignition start, it starts instantly that way..
 
Could be a slightly weak ground? I wonder if it takes more power for the remote start to activate.

I've noticed with my own factory remote start that sometimes it seems to have to crank more to start than just using the key.
 


bluebsh,

The remote vehicle start feature will not operate if any
of the follow occur:

- The remote start system is disabled through the DIC.
- The vehicle’s key is in the ignition.
- A door on the vehicle is open.
- The vehicle’s hood is open.
- The hazard warning flashers are on.
- There is an emission control system malfunction.
- The engine coolant temperature is too high.
- The oil pressure is low.
- Two remote vehicle starts, or one start with a time extension, have already been provided for that ignition cycle.

Are any of these a possibility?

Louis
GM Customer Service
 
- The remote start system is disabled through the DIC.
* Nope it's enabled
- The vehicle’s key is in the ignition.
* Doing this from outside the car while the car is locked
- A door on the vehicle is open.
* All doors are closed
- The vehicle’s hood is open.
* Trunk and hood are closed and locked
- The hazard warning flashers are on.
* Not on
- There is an emission control system malfunction.
* This one i'm not sure about, I have an ODBC-II scanner that shows emission status, when I plug it in, the emission status can be red, yellow or green, it's always yellow like something is wrong, but I can never find any info in it that says why it's yellow... I plugged the same device into an 06 Buick La Cross and get green for the same indicator... how do I go about finding out why it thinks there might be an emissions issue? any codes to look up or values to look at in the ODBC-II system?
- The engine coolant temperature is too high.
* Temp is normal, this only seems to happen on a cold start when the engine hasn't ran for 12 hours or more
- The oil pressure is low.
* Pressure appears to be fine
- Two remote vehicle starts, or one start with a time extension, have already been provided for that ignition cycle.
* This is happening on the first attempt, if I try it again it will still fail then show on the DIC "Remote start disabled" after doing a key ignition that goes away and its reenabled according to the DIC and works again
 
could a bad relay cause this? I did a remote start from inside the car I heard a relay click the engine try to start a click again and it died...

started it then with a key and no relay clicking noise, just straight started up
 
bluebsh,

I would suggest taking the vehicle back to the dealer that did the repairs and explain the issue you are experiencing.

Please keep us posted.

Louis
GM Customer Service
 
The dealer just replaced the starter and said it was "bad" I knew that wasn't the issue, the starter works fine with the key directly, and works with remote start, the engine just dies on remote start almost like somehow you did the remote start and pressed the start button again right after the engine started to cancel it...

they wouldn't look at anything else until the starter was changed... which of course costs me money... I've never had the GM dealer fix a problem on the first try and that always makes me mad because I tell them it's definatly not something then they come back and say lets try that first :th_angry-teeth: have a $100 deductable on my extended warrenty so the more they "try" the more I have to pay ugh

edit:
starting to think it is the key fob.... took the fob apart and shorted the buttons manually and the car started up fine
 
Last edited:


well I figured it out myself with no help of the dealer who wanted to yet replace another part...

noticed the other night when I turned my steering wheel the headlights dimmed... which is odd... that's either an alternator problem or a battery problem... first thing I looked at was the battery, pulled open the positive terminal cover and holy cow was it coverd in corosion... sprayed some battery cleaner on it with an acid indicator... turned pink immediatly on a good bit of the battery top.. cleaned that all up wire brushed it washed it off with water, did the batery cleaner again still pink... kept doing it until it stoped turning pink, put it back together and bingo remote start works instantly again no hesitation on start at all......

why in the world didn't the dealer look at this first :mad:
 
I had the same problem with mine. You can hear it turning the engine over then just stop. It did however actually start up one day out of the blue when I tried it. But Louis answered my problem.

- There is an emission control system malfunction.

Something about no cat and no EGR rings a bell here.



Sidethought: My personal opinion but remote start is a joke. Having a car idling running pig rich from being cold. Burn through gas like no other when I could actually be moving down the road while increasing engine temperature faster. Man up and deal with the climate, we can accommodate ourselves for things like that.
 
As for the emission light being yellow, possible back O2 sensor. They can go bad without setting off the CEL. Get a good scanner so you can see what the front and rear O2 are doing.
 
I had the same problem with mine. You can hear it turning the engine over then just stop. It did however actually start up one day out of the blue when I tried it. But Louis answered my problem.

- There is an emission control system malfunction.

Something about no cat and no EGR rings a bell here.



Sidethought: My personal opinion but remote start is a joke. Having a car idling running pig rich from being cold. Burn through gas like no other when I could actually be moving down the road while increasing engine temperature faster. Man up and deal with the climate, we can accommodate ourselves for things like that.

I disagree. Sure it's running a little rich from a cold start, but its not using more fuel than actually driving for 8 minutes. And on mornings when there is thick ice on the windows you need the defrost to help clear them so you can even see to drive.
 
Back
Top