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regal top swapped problems

some of the stuff on my slow screen. its over loaded, i have other pages with just KR.

tapp_zpsb02c1a42.jpg
 


If you add the gauge type that ahows you max and mins you can get a better take on whats happening espicially on wot runs

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Timing is low, but without knowing if KR logging via Torque is actually working, or without seeing the bin/hpt of what's on your PCM, we can't know for sure.

These snap shots don't help that much either. You need a log with multiple data points.

Have you checked compression? Checked if the cooling system holds 15 PSI?

I ask because the integrity of the cooling system is in question because you're not holding a solid temperature and recent major mechanical work was performed. These two checks would be an assurance that your work is sound, and the problem lies elsewhere.

Did you solve the misfire issue yet?

You're also doing no one any favours by having so many threads and cross posting on multiple forums. It makes it more difficult to keep track of what specific remedies you've tried, and with what results. Without that, making suggestions as to what to check is difficult and will result in what you saw on the first page.
 
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Scottydoggs said:
the boost was tim's post of his t app screen shot. lol
Click to expand...

Ya I had a vacuum leak under the dash and my 02 sensor was bad so.my trims and everything was wacked. I just posted that for him to.see what I do with my gauges on torque..lol..sorry didnt mean to confuse anyone.

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timboku said:
Ya I had a vacuum leak under the dash and my 02 sensor was bad so.my trims and everything was wacked. I just posted that for him to.see what I do with my gauges on torque..lol..sorry didnt mean to confuse anyone.

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Click to expand...

It was my fault for jumping the gun there. Sorry about that. Glad you fixed your issues though.
 
matt5112 said:
Timing is low, but without knowing if KR logging via Torque is actually working, or without seeing the bin/hpt of what's on your PCM, we can't know for sure.

These snap shots don't help that much either. You need a log with multiple data points.

Have you checked compression? Checked if the cooling system holds 15 PSI?

I ask because the integrity of the cooling system is in question because you're not holding a solid temperature and recent major mechanical work was performed. These two checks would be an assurance that your work is sound, and the problem lies elsewhere.

Did you solve the misfire issue yet?

You're also doing no one any favours by having so many threads and cross posting on multiple forums. It makes it more difficult to keep track of what specific remedies you've tried, and with what results. Without that, making suggestions as to what to check is difficult and will result in what you saw on the first page.
Click to expand...

Ok time to butcher you down. I get you guys are trying to help but i have people telling me ok put this on there then screen shot and then here you are telling me those dont mean ****. As for the cooling system my father will do that tomorrow at our shop.
Misfire: obviously not if theres videos of it. How do you know if it's a misfire you cant assume it is just like the rest of the other people on these forums tell me its multiple issues yet ive replaced everything that has to do with misfires. EVERYTHING.
Also i made multiple threads because i think that having multiple people seeing whats going on it will give me for information as to what other think it is. Think scientifically dude. You cant do one test and thats it you gotta do multiple tp get different readings and opinions. All of these threads have the same information ive put into all the others. And if you go back to each one they were started during different problems . One was the stutter, the other was putting the dang thing together and the other was troubles during start up. I cant stress enough to REAAAAAAD THEEEEEM.
 
Its unwise for you to make prejudgemental recalls of past events that have been fixed. The vibration is gone after regapping the plugs. The car ran fine pther than what i thought was the torque converter not workimg correctly.
It was working fine before top swapping. I didnt have a overheating issue, i didnt have the rough vibration issue, i didnt have the jerking/stuttering issue. This car ran literally fine until top swapping.
Now any more questions?
 


The only thing i need looked at right now is the stutter at wot when at normal temp and why it gets worse when the ac makes the car heat up?
My gauge shows im not getting knock at wot with multiple runs.
 
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Your trying to make me look like im contradicting myself when in fact notice i say before i swapped?
Also my idle according to the gauge on torque pro is saying im at 760 in park and 785 in drive
 
load the misfire gauge if you can on the T app. see if it shows any. cause it seems like bad misfires to me. ignition related some how.

could be a bad wire on the icm harness, like you pinched one, or by the pcm. they like to wear through on the a/c lines.

if its worse when hot the icm could also be bad....i know i know it ran on the other car, f that, test it. its free at auto zone. icm's go bad. even seen em test good and still be bad. so maybe try a junk yard one.
 
Scottydoggs said:
load the misfire gauge if you can on the T app. see if it shows any. cause it seems like bad misfires to me. ignition related some how.

could be a bad wire on the icm harness, like you pinched one, or by the pcm. they like to wear through on the a/c lines.

if its worse when hot the icm could also be bad....i know i know it ran on the other car, f that, test it. its free at auto zone. icm's go bad. even seen em test good and still be bad. so maybe try a junk yard one.
Click to expand...

Thanks Scotty yeah im going to go get it tested now and give you the results. Ill go to the junk yard tomorrow and go pull a couple if its the problem.
 
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