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Red Ripper Engine Code

we didnt put the scanner on it while i was there.

ya the small rubber line coming from the T into the lim was cracked. seems too small in diameter to me but it is rubber.

the coil packs did feel very hot, not as hot as the top of the blower but i couldnt leave my hand on them very long. the IC hoses dont get hot so those arent the problem.

MAF location is deffinitly messing with the reading, i can hear that in the way the motor idled, kinda like a vac leak but not as bad.

Bill you used the silicone SC gasket on there, i remember us have trouble with my gaskets and ditched them for the DIY ones. do you think that could be causing a vac leak and making it lean?

and it doesnt misfire at all or make any noise, it just stops, its weird.
 


I used the one that Agrazela and I had ventured into. The one other time I used this type of material was on a TB and it's still working well to this day. IIRC the issue you and I had with your gaskets wasn't a leak, but that they got dirty when they came out of the first build and were seemingly a pain to clean for the second build. I didn't believe that they caused you a leak, or I would have never used that.

On the maf and distance from the filter. That could very well be. It should be able to move closer to the TB easily. I did extend the maf wiring with solder and heat shrink. That shouldn't be effecting performance though.

There are really two things as I see it. One is the lean code. Which is possibly the maf location, leak in that vac line under snout, and very likely a tuning issue as well. The other item is the stalling, which experience says is a crank sensor or ICM. I'd aim to the crank sensor first.
 
There's a few different ways to do the bypass.

Put in a jumper to the connector where it goes to the fuel pump resistor
Bend the pin
Get a quality hotwire that bypasses it.
 


ah i c, i dont even have that relay, l36 didnt get it. well not mine anyways. i do have the casper rewire though.

i hope the icm fixes it.
 
update, i ordered a 22" magnaflow muffler/resonator part#10436 2.5"inlet/outlet to replace the gmpp version. i also just bought a pair of SLP trapezoid tips from "chrisszilla". MAF relocation and exhaust to be completed next week.
 
Len...
If you put MSD coils on, you are basically guaranteed to have high rpm misfires very soon after. Sorry on that stuff, I'll get it in the mail tonight for you. I think I have a spare of each.

The coils in question have blue under them.
IMG_7390.jpg


I thought blue was NA and yellow (slightly hotter spark) were SC. Swiggs, do you remember your colors?
 


BillBoost37 said:
Len...
If you put MSD coils on, you are basically guaranteed to have high rpm misfires very soon after. Sorry on that stuff, I'll get it in the mail tonight for you. I think I have a spare of each.

The coils in question have blue under them.
IMG_7390.jpg


I thought blue was NA and yellow (slightly hotter spark) were SC. Swiggs, do you remember your colors?
Click to expand...
well am not going to get the msd's if they have issues as such.
 
yes msd ones have a slight colder spark then the NA ones

bill i dont remember what color mine are, i know they are the SC ones now, we switched them when we did the bonnie bracket. im pretty sure they arent blue though.
 
the MAF was moved. there is now a 4" gap between the maf and air filter. i got everything for my catback exhaust. 22" magnaflow res/muffler with gmpp 2.5" y-pipe and mufflers with 2.5" slp trapozoid tips. to the mass guys, do you know a muffler shop that would install and weld the exhaust where needed without raping me. the magnaflow need to be weld and so do the tips. i also soaked the i/c and vacuum lines with carb cleaner and could not find a leak. where on the downpipe should i have a bung welded for wideband a/f ratio monitor.
 
Last edited:


got the catback installed. moved MAF mid point between TB and air filter. shimmed the icm. car still stalls when hot. also, notice and engine oil leak that possibly coming from front main seal.
 

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Probably needs a better tune at this point, especially if you're saying it stalls out after coming up to temp. Is the pcv functioning correctly or have u noticed pressure under the oil cap before the seal leaked?
 
BillBoost37 said:
Car has a breather.

Len, last night you mentioned you though the leak was from the ac compressor.
Click to expand...
no, there is a coolant leak, (antifreeze). i thought it was an oil leak but it is definitely coolant. i did not go under the car to see exactly where its coming from. what i was saying about the a/c compressor is that the old one i was told leaking freon! slow leak
 
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