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Rebuilding an Engine, Steam Cleaning Internal

Figure in $1500 of machine work and bolts. The steam clean you are talking about is the hot tank at the machine shop.
 


didnt read anything above me.

why are we building a motor for a car that isnt ever getting a small pulley?
 
matt5112 said:
How long do rebuilt 3800's last.

go look up the history on them.
Click to expand...


Because OTHERS have blown engines up someone shouldn't rebuild an engine?

Because OTHERS have blown engines up using nitrous people should use it?

Im beginning to think half the stuff you say is B.S. Wheres the FACTs man?

Rebuild it check and recheck everything and hell for the cost of buying a ZZP engine you could build at least 2!!!!!
 
Rebuilt 3800s just have a bad rep with not lasting long. They're just finicky, they're not as easy to rebuild as SBCs.
 


they will last if you machine everything like you are supposed too, replace the tty bolts, and know what your doing when you put it back together.
 
Maybe yes maybe not take your time check and recheck everything all said and done say sh1t does go south you could STILL build another for less than ordering a ZZP engine. Just becasue they've built it what makes it so much better than what someone that did a little research, checked and rechecked everything have to lose? Besides they could save a ton of money that could be used else where. Not to mention a higher compression build with a bigger pulley would have to work less. Combine that with a good tune and you've got a cheaper engine that makes more HP, and didnt get raped on shipping!!!!!
Hell the cost of shipping an engine alone is money to buy a CAM!!
 
Reptile's got over 10k on his rebuild and Bluegtp has over 6k on his (and no one thrashes on a car like blue. LOL) and neither are even close to stock. I think if done right, emphasis on that part, they will last. I realize 10k and 6k aren't a lot in the grand scheme of things, but I wouldn't hesitate on rebuilding another one. But then again, I'm a stickler for exact specs on everything which I think is the key to a successful rebuild.

And as far as steam cleaning, never heard of it. Take the important parts, block, heads, etc. and have them boiled out at a machine shop. Just my opinion, steam is water, water and bare metal will equal rust if you don't get it together right away. If you do steam clean it and it's gonna sit a while, spray it all down with some WD-40 or something equivalent to keep any surface rust from forming.
 
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with the new I/C and cam 42lb injectors and the rest of the mods im shooting for a 2.8

but i just ordered my new R1 concept rotors and hawk pads.

photos will be up in a year when i get home from Iraq lol.
 
all braking and suspension is done now 100%

GXP Calipers
HAWK PADS
Drilled and slotted rotors 12.7 front and 12' rear
ZZP control arms
KYB AGX Struts
new wheel bearings x4
new sway bar links
new outer tie rod ends
new powersteering pump
new rack and pinion


just gotta find some classy 18's or 20's to match the red/black theme and gotta order votland springs.

everything is ncie and paid for... just gotta install it when i get back! :th_peaceout:
 
You could probably run a 2.8" on a GenV with those mods...might as well skip the GenIII since you like taking money and burning it religiously
 


add a snorkel to the list and you will be good to do. If you decide you must rebuild the engine dont skimp on the machine work that is with 90% of these fail.
 
whats with the sudden outbreak of people rebuilding their motors?

Joey, if theres no real reason to completely tear the motor down, then dont.
I'm doing mine because it blew...

I dont really see any reason to have it totally disassembled, and rebuilt. Just throw that **** on there, and run it til it blows...THEN rebuild it.
 
yeah blue hit it right on the head. but i do want to put forged internals inside ya know and get the bottom end built proof.
 
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