• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Rebuild your supercharger



^LOL ya really.

So you are the man from rolling performance? or are you just plugging in their web site?

I emailed you guys about buying in bulk and something else about the bearings you supply, but cant remember what exactly. Its been several years, and never heard back form you, so moved on.

Welcome to have you here non the less.

~F~
 
Yeah it's me.
For anybody on the forum here, I'm willing to do a discount. Let me see if I can set up a coupon code or something like that. Or maybe free shipping.
 
How about free samples. :D

Ok, I tried at least. LOL

I'm looking for a new bearing supplier since I found out a little dirty secret about the bearings ZZP is selling as "replacements" for the M90's.

~F~
 


I hope Farnsworth lays it out because I have talked to him about it since I have a snout that needs to be rebuilt and Ive kept it bottled up. No, I wont say, so dont PM me about it. I told Farnsworth I would leave it up to him to give the details.

That said, I would welcome a discount from rolling performance as I desperately need a rebuild kit for the snout. I would love a set of ceramic bearing for no other reason than I am completely curious as to how well they would work, particularly in reducing parasitic drag. I know, I know, its probably better just to get a regular rebuild kit, but I love to experiment and try things out and I would have done this already if not for the cost of the bearings.
 
Pretty much the bearings that are supplied are replacement bearings in the sizes needed for our snouts. Anybody can get these bearings dang near anywhere for a lot less if you shop around, but, they bearings your buying are not rated for the RPM's these blowers spin at.

Take a stock Eaton snout bearing to a bearing supply store, and if they know their stuff, at a quick glance, they will see the difference and know...thats a bearing that spins really fast isn't it?

Not to bash the bearings that are supplied, as I have been buying them from ZZP for many-many years for all my rebuilds. They will work, and have worked. My first rebuild was done in 2001 and is still running as a daily driver to this day with no leaks or problems. But thats not to say that these bearings are just regular joe-schmo off the shelf bearings made in China.

I found a local supplier here in Wichita who lets me buy at wholesale. The bearings are nicer than what I used to buy else where, with my price they run about the same to a little higher than online. But the quality is there, when you spin them on your fingers, you can tell, when you compare.

~F~
 
Just to shed some light on the subject of bearings, there are some misconceptions about bearing numbers and what they mean. I would like to think that I have some knowledge on the subject being that my main business is bearings and seals, for my industrial company.

The bearings that come in these superchargers are C3 bearings. This C3 has nothing to do with quality or precision, it's just the internal clearance of the bearing. C3 is considered "standard fit". C2 or C1 is "tighter fit" while C4 is looser fit. That said, don't be fooled by someone saying C3 is a higher quality bearing, it has nothing to do with quality, just the internal clearance of the bearing.

There are also a million brands that manufacture bearings. Obviously, you do want to stay away from Chinese bearings, although there are some high quality Chinese factories that produce good bearings. Many of the Chinese factories have all state of the art new facilities, it's just the quality of the material that they use to manufacture that can be questionable. SKF is a brand that everyone thinks is an industry leader in bearing quality, however, you are really paying a higher price for the name rather than quality. ORS is a mfg. in Turkey that is 1/2 the price of SKF, but quality is top notch. They purchase all their steel from SKF Sweden, balls are from SKF Italy, and equipment is all from an old SKF plant. Another well known name is the German manufacturer FAG bearings. What many don't know is that most of their ball bearings are now manufactured in Korea by a company called KBC.

Basically, I'm just trying to let you guys know that we are knowledgable about bearings, and only would sell good quality bearings. All our kits use NTN bearings which are on par or better quality than the NSK bearings that actually come stock in the Eatons. They are also C3 fit which is also what come stock. Sorry for the long post but I hope this sheds some light on what's behind bearings.
 


Very good information, may have to sticky this for a while or put it somewhere for all to come across when its needed.

So give me some details on those ceramic bearings. Ive been on the fence about those. How much drag/friction can they reduce and what would its overall affect be since you still have to spin the rotors that also sit in bearings that arent ceramic?

Anyway, just trying to learn cause I like to reduce friction where I can.
 
That is some really good info.

German Quality FTW...till I read that.

I had head about SFK thing, but never heard it from another reliable source till now. Thats how it goes now a days...you pay for the name but not the quality.

As for the China made bearings, I do agree they have the machines to make, or should say could make a quality bearing, but the material they make it from is of poor quality. Got to love the recycled ore they buy from America huh? LOL Much like the metal they make their cars from..recycled - recycled ore.

Now I remember what I emailed you guys about years ago.

I'm sending you a PM here in a minute. :cool:

~F~
 
SyntheticShield said:
Very good information, may have to sticky this for a while or put it somewhere for all to come across when its needed.

So give me some details on those ceramic bearings. Ive been on the fence about those. How much drag/friction can they reduce and what would its overall affect be since you still have to spin the rotors that also sit in bearings that arent ceramic?

Anyway, just trying to learn cause I like to reduce friction where I can.
Click to expand...

The ceramic bearings offer 40% less friction and 60% less rotating weight. They were developed with high speed machine tools in mind so they are well suited for our blower application also. As with regular bearings, there are a lot of Chinese ceramics out there so beware. Our ceramic bearings are made with Cerbec balls, made in the USA.
Some good info on their website Cerbec | ceramic bearing balls
 
Thats some really good info. Do the ceramic bearings come sealed and lubed or are they lubed from the oil in the supercharger snout itself?
 
I would be more than sure they would have the ends opened and would get its lube from the supercharger oil. You would almost have to.

~F~
 


They are open, just like standard bearings. Bearings have a higher max rpm rating when lubricated with oil like the oil in the supercharger, than when lubricated by grease, such as a sealed bearing. Your standard steel bearing carries a speed limitation of 20000 rpm for the rear bearing and 18000 rpm for the front bearing when oil lubricated. With the ceramic bearings, the rating will increase by 35% and your fatigue life rating increases by over 250% (meaning it will last at least 2.5 times longer than steel bearing)
 
You know, Im glad you are here. We need more knowledgeable people like yourself here. I think between you and Farnsworth we ought to have the the M90 snout covered pretty well.

Are there any ceramic bearings for the housing? Those needle bearings?
 
Are there any ceramic bearings for the housing? Those needle bearings?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately not. There's a company in Germany called Cerobear that makes ceramic needle bearings but they are REALLY expensive. They make a caged needle roller that the NASCAR teams use as a rod bearing but they are really just not affordable right now. Maybe sometime down the line they might get better but as of now it's not an option.
 
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