• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Rebuild recomendations



I found a complete L67 from engine cover to oil pan for 700 dollars. What are the parts form my engine worth (blower, heads, intake , sensors, complete brackets worth?
 
I can get a complete L67 with 81,000 for 700 with a 30 day warranty but i can also get 01 3800 (na) with 31,000 for 450. Which way would i get more bang for the buck. cheaper bottom end and my top end with a cam or complete l67 with a pulley swap. going to redo exhaust and tune on either one
 




Im getting confused, my car is already a factory L67 car. I just want to do a bottom end swap. Shouldnt my sensors and so on be the same?
 
Right...then all you'd do is rip everything off the N/A block and stick it in your car. The only thing different is the compression ratio. 8.5:1 in the L67 vs. 9.4:1 in the N/A block. You WILL need headers. You WILL need a custom tune. Bar none.
 
Oh and the L36 gears on the timing chain have the cam advanced 1* versus an L67 timing set.

Rods are different.... but other than that, same.
 


its the gear that sets it off by 1*.

use an L67 gear set and it'll be at 0*.

Use an L36 gear set and it'll be 1* advanced.

That is granted you time it properly with the dots lined up.
 
Or, be a boss and have the cam degreed...which no one does, they just shove the cam in and roll with it.
 
Unless your on a massive cam and have tight valve to pistion clearance I see no reason to degree this engine. That cam once set isnt going to move like say a newer VVT engine and certianly not advancing or redarding like a DOHC engine. This is pushrods and gear driven timing it doesnt really get any easier.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top