• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

r1 concept roters



I'm using blank rotors from them with hawk pads. I have had no issues. I have read good things about the cross drilled/slotted rotors.
 


High performance vehicles are also VERY MUCH about bling.

So don't look to Lamborghini or Ferrari for tips on how to make your car perform better. :D

Heat dissipation in a rotor is effected by the veins, not the friction surface where the drilling and slotting are happening. SO, get rotors with curved veins for high air velocity which will improve the rate at which the heat is dissipated.

OR

direct air from the front fascia to the front of the rotors via a brake duct.

If you do neither, you're not improving the rate of heat dissipation.

If you get larger rotors, then you just increase the heat capacity in the rotor, but you still have the same limitations as above. In english, your rotors will take longer to heat up, but will still heat soak to the same temperatures.

The REAL solution is a higher temperature pad that can actually provide friction at those higher temps.

For all practical uses... buy some premium pads at your local parts store, they should be more than enough for most people.

If you need some more, try the entry level hawk pads (non ceramic) or EBC red stuff.

If you need any more than that, you should slow down because the only thing after that is race pads and they don't work so well when they're cold...
 
Last edited:
i have the R1 slotted and drilled rotors for 2 years now on the same ones. im going to change them come spring just because theyre starting to rust.
 
matt5112 said:
High performance vehicles are also VERY MUCH about bling.

So don't look to Lamborghini or Ferrari for tips on how to make your car perform better. :D

Heat dissipation in a rotor is effected by the veins, not the friction surface where the drilling and slotting are happening. SO, get rotors with curved veins for high air velocity which will improve the rate at which the heat is dissipated.

OR

direct air from the front fascia to the front of the rotors via a brake duct.

If you do neither, you're not improving the rate of heat dissipation.

If you get larger rotors, then you just increase the heat capacity in the rotor, but you still have the same limitations as above. In english, your rotors will take longer to heat up, but will still heat soak to the same temperatures.

The REAL solution is a higher temperature pad that can actually provide friction at those higher temps.

For all practical uses... buy some premium pads at your local parts store, they should be more than enough for most people.

If you need some more, try the entry level hawk pads (non ceramic) or EBC red stuff.

If you need any more than that, you should slow down because the only thing after that is race pads and they don't work so well when they're cold...
Click to expand...

Sound and correct logic on the heat dissipation to surface area. Cross drilling does help with heat dissapation, because the holes they machine into the rotor surface allow the air to flow into the veins, thus improving air flow within the rotor by about 20%. It does this by harnessing the cooling power of the winds perpendicular to the rotor surface at any given time. Slotted surfaces less efficient than drilling because they don't affect the veins in any way, but they do help move air over the brake pad and thus through the caliper even during braking because centripital forces are moving the air out from the hub, over the rotor, towards the inside of the wheel. Practically, I'm not sure how these drilled and slotted rotors compare to a performance blank rotor, but the ideas are good ones and brake tests show that some of these well designed drilled/slotted rotors do out perform stockers, independent of your pad choice.

why would you advise against ceramics?!?
 
Last edited:
^ i agree. why are you going against ceramics. i took a year of automotive and was taught that ceramic and some semi-metallic pads were the best. i've heard some good things about ebc brakes. i have stock brakes now and plan on at least upgrading the pads when i get new rotors on in the spring.
 
They're not performance pads.

They're low dust pads really.

I assume you guys want increased brake performance not lower dust and noise right?

Re-read it, I said

. . . buy some premium pads at your local parts store, they should be more than enough for most people.

If you need some more, try the entry level hawk pads (non ceramic) or EBC red stuff.
Click to expand...

Ceramic hawk pads would be similar to the premium pads at your local parts store.

Read the review earlier on in this thread, someone had them and they sucked hardcore so why spend that extra coin if you're getting a similar product? Name brand...
 
Last edited:


matt5112 said:
They're not performance pads.

They're low dust pads really.

I assume you guys want increased brake performance not lower dust and noise right?

Re-read it, I said



Ceramic hawk pads would be similar to the premium pads at your local parts store.

Read the review earlier on in this thread, someone had them and they sucked hardcore so why spend that extra coin if you're getting a similar product? Name brand...
Click to expand...


yeah i dont know anything about pads. i always buy ceramic because i like clean chrome :th_laugh-pointup: thanks for the info tho, i'm gonna look into those hawks for my upcoming brake job.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top