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Question on SD Headers

S

Sternzy

New member
Speed Daddy's site states 1.5" Primary - 2.5" Outlet , while the Speed Daddy Ebay store states Inlet/ Outlet: 1.50"/ 3.00".

Is that just a typo, or do they make a 3" outlet for a 3" cat-back system? I don't see a 2.5" outlet for sale on ebay, and I only see a 2.5" outlet listed on their own website.
 


Hi, Moved your post as it wouldn't get many visits on the end of a How to thread. Hope this helps you get a better response.
 
The outlet flange, where it bolts to the cat-back is 2.5". The downpipe itself is, however, 3".
 
DanGTP said:
The outlet flange, where it bolts to the cat-back is 2.5". The down-pipe itself is, however, 3".
Click to expand...
Thanks, makes perfect sense.

BillBoost37 said:
Hi, Moved your post as it wouldn't get many visits on the end of a How to thread. Hope this helps you get a better response.
Click to expand...
Thank you sir! I noticed it was gone right after I posted it, had no idea where it went. What confused me was someone had replied to the post. I wound up buying the speed daddy headers and spun Magnaflow high flow cat. Which now that I think of it, brings me to one other question I had...

The SD kit comes with 2 3" clamps and 2 2.25" clamps. From what I can tell the whole header kit is 3"(from what I guestimate), then it steps down to 2.25" at what looks looks to be where it would connect to a resonator, though I have to admit I haven't been under the car yet to really look.

So using this logic I assumed the 2 2.25" clamps would be for if you were going to install a 2.25" catalytic converter. I bought 4 3" slip-fit band clamps. Two fo rthe crossover, and two for the spun 3" Magnaflow high-flow catalytic converter.

Did I do it right? :o
 
Nope, but close.

The front headers go to a collector pipe (crossover) then over the trans to the rear header collector. That whole pipe is 2.25, so will need 2 of those 2.25 clamps.

The two 3in clamps go where the downpipe goes to the cat-back. If you choose to not run a cat you will use them there.


You can kind of see the frist band clamp up front and I have one horse shoe clamp on there, but was replaced with a band clamp very soon after.

Photo0419.jpg
 


I need some advice from the guru's!

I'm in the dis-assembly phase and I've come up against a resonator that is split down the seem, and has completely rotten/stripped bolts where it connects to the down pipe. The cat back is one piece all the back to the mufflers, including resonator.

What do you guys use to replace the resonator? I see where the rear Y pipe connects to it there is a weird angle and looks like it would be hell to get any type of clamp on there for an aftermarket resonator.

Do you guys see anything I could pick up over at autozone to make this work? or maybe Andy's Auto Sport Body Kits - Your Body Kit Superstore! (local I could pick it up tomorrow)?
 
The resonator is before the y split and after the down pipe.So it is a straight through design,placed in the middle of the car.I have a Walker res myself,it;s held up so far and made this pig quietier.
 


I just straight piped mine from the headers to the stock mufflers for now. I don't experience the rasp effect people speak of. But it works for me.

Sent using my Galaxy SIII on Tapatalk 2
 
After looking at a stock resonator and a glass pack of approximately the right size. I get the glass pack each time. They look identical internally. Glass pack might give less service life..but heck..
 
We got the 31" Thrush glasspack. Now I just need an adapter. This one is 2.25" OD I could slip into/weld into the new glasspack. Would stepping it down like that slightly to connect the resonator have any adverse effects? Nothing to worry about with a naturally aspirated engine?

NAPA AUTO PARTS
 
Sternzy said:
We got the 31" Thrush glasspack. Now I just need an adapter. This one is 2.25" OD I could slip into/weld into the new glasspack. Would stepping it down like that slightly to connect the resonator have any adverse effects? Nothing to worry about with a naturally aspirated engine?

NAPA AUTO PARTS
Click to expand...

ull be fine just get it in there anyway you can without leaks
 


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