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Question... NO



Shall I go out on a limb and say this is the reason my blower motor just up and stopped.......Digital fyi

Nice plug, but why does this happen? safe to use as is?
20150930_153319 by Corey S, on Flickr

Back of plug
20150930_153329 by Corey S, on Flickr

Input to resistor
20150930_153351 by Corey S, on Flickr
20150930_153818 by Corey S, on Flickr

Of course I had to take it apart
20150930_153721 by Corey S, on Flickr
20150930_153621 by Corey S, on Flickr

I guess when these things go, they GO


Cant complain over 4 years off 100% perfection, somethings gotta go sometimes.
 
Use some dielectric grease on those connections when it goes back together. Prevents corrosion which causes resistance and heat, and also helps carry heat away from the terminals if it does get warm. Can't tell you how it seems those types of electrical issues are mostly a gm thing.
 


The blower motor is OBVIOUSLY pulling way too many amps, thus the damaged plug. Replace the plug and the blower motor, or see if you can burn your car down. You have choices, this is America after all.
 


1 pigtail, resistor, blower and 30 amp fuse later my heats back. Found the problem and it wasnt the blower, but I have my original as a spare now. Morad came to the rescue and clipped me the pigtail, resistor and blower for under 50 shipped.

Nice blow hole :)
20151011_164416 by Corey S, on Flickr

And now the problem that caused it all.
New tail spliced in, soldered, dielectric grease with wrap over it, I hope there is not any damage to the big harness from that dam crap plug:th_angry2: Melted insulation, I dont believe there is bare copper anywhere, Ill have to double check when Im done from being bent over
20151011_171752 by Corey S, on Flickr

Further trace up the line I see where the PO replaced the plug, **** dont look good
20151011_161843 by Corey S, on Flickr

Really, wires twisted together then wrapped in electrical tape....................no wonder my **** melted.
20151011_172927 by Corey S, on Flickr
20151011_172954 by Corey S, on Flickr
20151011_173057 by Corey S, on Flickr

Lesson of the day? Solder people its easy and takes a few seconds.
 
keep in mind, thats in the car, not under the hood.

solder and shrink tubes always.


po was a butcher lol make sure you cut the wire back till you hit clean new looking copper wire. solder wont stick to that dull tarnished looking wire.
 


Out of 4 snowblowers only one ran, so I thought I would play carb cleaning man.

Picked up a old toro with levers and things from a job last week, would "start" with direct injection but none else, the sight of the carb was lol. Start to take apart to clean it, stopped when I took the needles out, carb is garbage.

Went to the ariens next, soaked over night in 50/50 atf and paint thinner, compressor and carb cleaner, 2 pulls ***** fired right up, thing hasnt run in 2 years wo ho! Then oil came plowing out the breather, then the fuel bowl was dripping fuel out of the carb throat. Changed oil, blowing stopped, tried to "recenter" the float needle, still leaks, **** it so I bought 3 new carbs:)

Toros carb
20151103_131622 by Corey S, on Flickr
20151103_132109 by Corey S, on Flickr
20151103_132330 by Corey S, on Flickr

toros, but this is the problem for some reason on the ariens, all looks fine and clear. I will probably keep the carb, fix it one day then sell it
20151103_133656 by Corey S, on Flickr

I have a snowblower problem, I also have a yellow $200 pos from menards years ago that the plastic housing practically broke apart after 5 uses. Motor still fires up no problem. The black one is the only one that runs, that I found at a house also, I neglect it too. Didnt use it at all last season just sat full of fuel, starts in 2 pulls all day everyday
20151104_162155 by Corey S, on Flickr.

And yes I have nail polish on again
 
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