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Project Turbo Parts car !



98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
Better track prep will be 10s im all but certian of that.
Again all bull**** aside its nice to see straight forward results!
Click to expand...
Can't complain about the track too much. I know it's not the quickest track, I was too lazy to drive 3 hours to the best one.
AND it was a test N tune day I was debating not going but I had plans for fishing Sunday. Too bad tomorrow, weather is good, track will be good etc...
 
Hek of a nice run there, congrats!
I've been to Luskville dragway before, we ran an 1/8 mile race in our Pro Mod 02 Camaro there back in 05 and I doubt it's changed much.
Definetly not a "National Event" type track, very uneven surface and narrow groove there, had to pull alot of timing and do some work in the clutch can to get it down that track. Guy we were running against didn't know what the word "Lift" meant
Safe to say I see that car running 10's on a "good" track
 
231FUN said:
Hek of a nice run there, congrats!
I've been to Luskville dragway before, we ran an 1/8 mile race in our Pro Mod 02 Camaro there back in 05 and I doubt it's changed much.
Definetly not a "National Event" type track, very uneven surface and narrow groove there, had to pull alot of timing and do some work in the clutch can to get it down that track. Guy we were running against didn't know what the word "Lift" meant
Safe to say I see that car running 10's on a "good" track
Click to expand...

wow what a picture...

There is certainly a few tenths or more to be had with this car on a good track but I'm not sure to want to pursue that. It will be diminishing returns from this point. Right now I have very little invested in the car.
I have twin engine project waiting to be finished I think that's where I should put my time.

So the car ran many many runs without any issues.
best E.T. of 11.06 (consistently 11.2 or quicker)
Best MPH of 126.4

High mileage stock engine with original head gasket and all.
High mileage stock transmission
Stock injectors
Stock MAF
 
Turbocharged400sbc said:
we shoulda ran 10's years ago if the trans didnt fight us the whole way
Click to expand...
In my case, it ran pretty well, slipping the converter a lot but pulling good. in the last few passes, it started to have a slight shudder from the trans when going into 3rd gear.
I'm right at the limit of that stock trans.
 


Nice runs... I am guessing you are banking on the injectors just being static and never stopping fuel flow and the race gas
keep things from popping?

Also how much life you get left in that little guy of a turbo? (I haven't read all the posts here)...

My first run in the 10's was a 10.8 @ 19psi and not so great of launch... but have been able to sqweak out 10.9's on 15psi
when I fudge the HKS controller to wrong setting.

500-600lbs out of these cars allows them to run some pretty good times with horribly not alot of stuff. I have a ST5 cam,
and some yocal head work, but the short block is a 95/96 with over 200k miles on it.

Be interesting to see what the trans inside looks like. I put on over 100 passes in 2013, majority in the 10s, and there wasn't
a lot of wear at all, just a little on 3rd, and PRJ had 4th gear disabled. The ZZP converter is most likely shot tho.

I also didn't get into the 1.5x 60 foots until I started launching off the line at 10psi and having the m&h slicks down to about 10-10.5 psi.
I felt that day 1.4's could have been done, if they had glued.. rained before track opened and was test and tune.
But after that day, is when the converter side to whine and called it a year.

My setup is roughly around the 3000-3050 range with the cage and no driver. Like to knock another 100-150lbs out and still have it look
mostly stock inside.
 
jdredd said:
Nice runs... I am guessing you are banking on the injectors just being static and never stopping fuel flow and the race gas
keep things from popping?

Also how much life you get left in that little guy of a turbo? (I haven't read all the posts here)...

My first run in the 10's was a 10.8 @ 19psi and not so great of launch... but have been able to sqweak out 10.9's on 15psi
when I fudge the HKS controller to wrong setting.

500-600lbs out of these cars allows them to run some pretty good times with horribly not alot of stuff. I have a ST5 cam,
and some yocal head work, but the short block is a 95/96 with over 200k miles on it.

Be interesting to see what the trans inside looks like. I put on over 100 passes in 2013, majority in the 10s, and there wasn't
a lot of wear at all, just a little on 3rd, and PRJ had 4th gear disabled. The ZZP converter is most likely shot tho.

I also didn't get into the 1.5x 60 foots until I started launching off the line at 10psi and having the m&h slicks down to about 10-10.5 psi.
I felt that day 1.4's could have been done, if they had glued.. rained before track opened and was test and tune.
But after that day, is when the converter side to whine and called it a year.

My setup is roughly around the 3000-3050 range with the cage and no driver. Like to knock another 100-150lbs out and still have it look
mostly stock inside.
Click to expand...

The Turbo Compressor is fairly large, close to a GT35 in terms of flow. But the turbine side is small, and at the power I am right now, it's slowing my down.
It's a great street turbo at 15-18 psi of boost. Any more than 20 psi is diminishing returns.

Injectors are not static. Making the tune richer would actually make it richer. They are not running at 100% actual duty.
I raised base FP to 60 psi and am running leanish now but now run 100% race fuel. Junk Torco race fuel since that's what I have in stock.
If I ever go back it will be with VP C16.

I have no suspension mod, no cable nothing.
 
jdredd said:
.
Click to expand...

My Jdredd, I looked at your videos of 10 second runs, well done.
The setup looks to be working very well. I noticed right away how hard your trans shifts and how well it seem to run.
Then I saw you had bought a built transmission with a 1" GMR chain for that car. Is that why it runs so hard.

Mine now shifts very soft and slips a lot in the converter (since I'm over 22 psi of boost). It won't take the power and put it down efficiently
 
TwinV6GTP said:
The Turbo Compressor is fairly large, close to a GT35 in terms of flow. But the turbine side is small, and at the power I am right now, it's slowing my down.
It's a great street turbo at 15-18 psi of boost. Any more than 20 psi is diminishing returns.

Injectors are not static. Making the tune richer would actually make it richer. They are not running at 100% actual duty.
I raised base FP to 60 psi and am running leanish now but now run 100% race fuel. Junk Torco race fuel since that's what I have in stock.
If I ever go back it will be with VP C16.

I have no suspension mod, no cable nothing.
Click to expand...

Interesting... I am at 65 psi on FP on the 95# injectors and e85... not max'd out yet but seem to be getting there.. Interesting how you've pushed them
this far. Neat stuff ...

I had all brand new stock replacement struts/springs on, which made the car horrible for the track. Wheel gap from hell... it would raise up a few more inchs
going down the track. Would have been better to kept the old 160k+ stuff on there, as would have sat lower. I couldn't get past the 1.9x 60s that day.

IMG_0189.jpg


I have the coil overs now on the front that Sean made, and the new struts on the rear still with the cable mode. Seemed to help. At least that is what I
like to think :)

IMG_0674_zps2063074e.jpg


Also address brakes at all yet?

With the ass end so light now, and 130+ traps, the rear end does get squirrely if you get on brakes to quick like MattM told me it would.

Proportioning valve will help with that or just totally removing the rear calipers all together... I may be going to removing the calipers
as its not a street car anymore and just leave the hubs there for ebrake only. Hey it worked for GMR racing cobalt, but they
saved the rotors down to save weight. Not going that far.

Its not a big issue but our track has a problem of say.. a deer running across.. and gotta slam the brakes, the rear end is gonna
be a problem.

Also if looking for some more weight reduction.

http://www.opticarmorwindows.com/ sells replacement glass for us... sales person said should save around 75lbs with just the
front and rear done. Going with this during the winter when the body work finally gets done.
 
OOOOOOO glass link thanks!
Not sure if zachs old gutter car had them done already or not?
Hope so then I wont have too!

Thanks!!
 


98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
OOOOOOO glass link thanks!
Not sure if zachs old gutter car had them done already or not?
Hope so then I wont have too!

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

I am unsure if they fixed the application guide link... but they are the ones who carry it.

I was told its the proper shape and curves, ect.. but that its made over side so you have to
have a shop cut/trim it all to fit and what not.

It is NOT wiper safe and I am pretty sure no heating element either for the rear... so Racekar only type deal.

They have side glass too, but they recommend not to use it in a power window setup, to have it
fixed up all the time. They said some people get by with using it in power windows situations. I am
passing on that.

My HOPE for myself is this stuff + the VFW stock fiberglass hood weight savings will be ~100lbs...
every pound counts :) .. i am just dumb and want almost stock looking car inside and out as possible.
 
Where do you find the weight specs? Do they have them or just call?

1200ish for whole car, hmm light car with light replacement glass = NO MEGA BUCK TRANS PARTS??

1200 ehh that's what a little less than a 1inch GMR chain cost?

The real question is exactly how much weight savings is a full car worth of the 3/16"? Thinner cost less obviously.....
 
98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
Where do you find the weight specs? Do they have them or just call?

1200ish for whole car, hmm light car with light replacement glass = NO MEGA BUCK TRANS PARTS??

1200 ehh that's what a little less than a 1inch GMR chain cost?

The real question is exactly how much weight savings is a full car worth of the 3/16"? Thinner cost less obviously.....
Click to expand...

Just going by weight the sales person told me... i am pretty sure its a number out of his ass type deal. But I am sure their will still
be like a 50% at least.. if not upwards to 75% as the OEM glass is pretty darn heavy.

Once you get down to swiss cheesing the car as much as you can, getting the glass replacement is a nice touch without ruining the car
to much.
 
98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
Now your going to get me calling glass shops for stock weight estimates and then ill just figure off the 50% estimate.
Click to expand...

I'd go 3/16th like you said as i think NHRA rules was that was the limit.. they went thinner, and honestly the guy could have been using that as his base.. looking
back now its been like 8 months since i talked to them.

Front and rear glass i'd like to think is like 40-50lbs each easily.. so if round to 100lbs total... and get it down to 50lbs... still a nice savings. I can't find numbers for
us for the old lexan glass, but read up on fbody guys saying theirs were coming in at like 17lbs with the lexan replacement with 3/16.

Be interesting to get some real numbers.
 


I did the two back windows on mine, total saving with door material removed (front of the door only) was around 20 lbs each door.
Was going to do the front doors but I wanted to keep the power window...

Now Project parts car is donating its turbo kit to my daily driver 07 GT Special edition... much nicer car and I'll enjoy the turbo power daily.
I will keep boost around 15 psi to give a fighting chance to the transmission.

Project parts car is having a Turbo upgrade to a 6262 Precision. It's going for one last race day. Hoping the trans can survive long enough for a solid 10 sec number.
The turbo won't be helping much as my limitation was mostly trans slip and traction. I'm banking on better traction through 2nd gear (in which I had a lot of wheel spin).
I will be running more boost through the 1st 660 feet and right before it shifts to 3rd gear, I will lower boost to reduce trans slip in that gear.

Anyone has a GREAT transmission tune for HP tuners. I have modified/improved my trans mapping so far but it's not perfect.
Jdredd, what have you done as far as trans tuning ?
 
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