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Project Turbo Parts car !

Turbocharged400sbc said:
I'm guessing that with the lack of tuning we are not talking about maxing the maf table at 511 gps we are talking about him going over 11 and a half kilohertz...

while what he is doing is unsafe and could lead to shortened drivetrain life. .. or pistons anyways.
I am still a firm believer that people put too much fuel into these short deck motors.
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lack of tuning ? As long as A/F is safe, timing is right and no KR, why are you saying this is unsafe and not tuned ?
Of course if I crank to boost so high my A/F is unsafe I could hurt something. But why would I do that ?

I do not recommend everyone starts going stock injectors. But I will tell you the vast majority here always put way too much parts and go way to big in injectors for their applications.
Due to fears created by "shamans" like Darkhorizon here. Hate guys like that.

Here's a list of limitations that were proven totally wrong:

Cannot make more than 290 HP on stock engine.... Wrong
Cannot make more than 290HP on stock MAF.... wrong
Fix your transmission or you won't be able to run good times... wrong, testing showed great results starting in 2nd. No one believed it.
Cannot run 11s with this setup... wrong. In fact I'm going for 10s now (lets hope the transmission lives)
What I'm doing isn't safe... over 25 passes (testing + track) at 16 psi of boost. Now running 5 passes of 22 psi of boost, everything still great, no KR, safe A/F

Why would I need to spend a fortune in parts when I can do it for cheap and get great results.

500$ car 150K miles all original engine + trans.


If anything I will have to spend on a transmission, that could fail anytime.
 
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Ok so if im a hater and calling you wrong... ive already went 10s on a stock trans at 2900lbs... ive already went 10s on a bone stock motor (with a bigger maf and 50#injectors at 80% on 93 on a $75 turbo)... the only single thing ive ever said you cant do is run a stock maf and I am still right... you are and have been maxing it this whole time without saying you were and bragging how well it works.. if it works yay but its not like it makes sense when putting the right maf in is borderline free.

You say you did this on a budget but the turbo you have is worth more than the entire car I threw down the track at 10s.
 
darkhorizon said:
Ok so if im a hater and calling you wrong... ive already went 10s on a stock trans at 2900lbs... ive already went 10s on a bone stock motor (with a bigger maf and 50#injectors at 80% on 93 on a $75 turbo)... the only single thing ive ever said you cant do is run a stock maf and I am still right... you are and have been maxing it this whole time without saying you were and bragging how well it works.. if it works yay but its not like it makes sense when putting the right maf in is borderline free.

You say you did this on a budget but the turbo you have is worth more than the entire car I threw down the track at 10s.
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Congratulations then. I am serious. Good job !!
There are many ways to reach the same destinations.
The turbo was on the shelf for 6 months... can't get cheaper than this. It's doing nothing and was from a Race sled originally.

I'm not anywhere near 2900lbs. I'd have to work hard to gut the car.

Hey there is something you can help me with. Before I hack the car anymore.
What is the weight of the headliner, dash ?
 
Alot or metal can be cut out of the back speaker tray gut the rear doors, sway bar on the front doest do crap if your not doing corners like a retard. Even with my gutted gtp i only had the rear sway in. If its dedicated fair weather car id consider some weight out of the wiper cowel too. I never did anything on mi e since i daily'd it in north dakota. Also ac cruise control and abs along with hvac crap in the dash adds up real fast. A torch and and metal putty knife will make short work of all the sound deadening in the floor. Firewall also has deade ing matt too but whole dash has to come out to get it out unless you cut it up i guess.
 


98GrandPrixIraqVet said:
Alot or metal can be cut out of the back speaker tray gut the rear doors, sway bar on the front doest do crap if your not doing corners like a retard. Even with my gutted gtp i only had the rear sway in. If its dedicated fair weather car id consider some weight out of the wiper cowel too. I never did anything on mi e since i daily'd it in north dakota. Also ac cruise control and abs along with hvac crap in the dash adds up real fast. A torch and and metal putty knife will make short work of all the sound deadening in the floor. Firewall also has deade ing matt too but whole dash has to come out to get it out unless you cut it up i guess.
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Thanks.
I tried to keep a few thing to help with the stock look. Driver side panel is on, rear speaker cover is on, I will tint the rear and side windows.

One thing slowing me down is the quiet exhaust with four mufflers it's 65 lbs + restrics a little HP at the power level I'm at.
But it's what makes it different than other street or drag cars. I'm the most quiet by far.

In back to back testing on my supercharged GTP I gained a tenth and a half with the exhaust off. A car like mine it's probably 2-3 tenths off I'm guessing at the power I'm making.

I'm tempted to cut out the rear speaker support and also the hatch area (spare tire well).
 
zone de la pneu de rechange ne pas aider.. peut-etre metal legere a sa place

The spare tire well won't help much weight unless you use a light metal in it's place. You already know that I just wanted to test my french, I'm a pretty awful Canadian
 
Repost from other thread, but this car is

stock motor/heads/cam, 22psi now, stock MAF unmodified, stock injectors and pump, no valvetrain mods, 6400rpm shifts?

Just want to confirm this and not twisting any words here...
 
Bone stock high miles 150K block/heads/cams/lifters/rockers (stock engine other than intake manifold)
05 GP N/A intake
modified Stock L67 TB/MAF. MAF screen is out. Custom MAF tuning to get driveability back.
Stock L67 injectors
Walbro 255 HP pump (external)
Fuel cell (helps remove air in fuel which again increases HP capacity of stock fuel components)

I shift at 6000rpm normally. But have seen 6200rpm shift with no noticeable penalty in E.T. or mph.

Started boost 16 psi went to 17.6 psi during the day as it got hotter. E.T. stayed similar as humidity + heat went up during the day.

Now running 22.3 psi same setup...way quicker according to datalogs, very quick now. Hoping for high 10s with better traction.
 


TwinV6GTP said:
Bone stock high miles 150K block/heads/cams/lifters/rockers (stock engine other than intake manifold)
05 GP N/A intake
modified Stock L67 TB/MAF. MAF screen is out. Custom MAF tuning to get driveability back.
Stock L67 injectors
Walbro 255 HP pump (external)
Fuel cell (helps remove air in fuel which again increases HP capacity of stock fuel components)

I shift at 6000rpm normally. But have seen 6200rpm shift with no noticeable penalty in E.T. or mph.

Started boost 16 psi went to 17.6 psi during the day as it got hotter. E.T. stayed similar as humidity + heat went up during the day.

Now running 22.3 psi same setup...way quicker according to datalogs, very quick now. Hoping for high 10s with better traction.
Click to expand...

Is the MAF modified at all? not the screen, but the plastic. Are you using an AFC?

What fuel pressure are you running? Did you bump it up over stock? FPR or just stock?
 
HEAVYKEVY said:
Is the MAF modified at all? not the screen, but the plastic. Are you using an AFC?

What fuel pressure are you running? Did you bump it up over stock? FPR or just stock?
Click to expand...

Using only HP tuners, no MAF signal conditioning. Fuel pressure isn't something 100% accurate because the measurement can vary from one gauge to another plus this particular regulator is the one we used for racing turbo sleds. It has a tendency to run richer at the same pressure as a stock regulator.

I'm running 52 psi base pressure (car off key on) but it acts MUCH richer than stock. Had to lean out cruise/idle/part throttle quite a bit.
 
Did not modify the MAF sensor itself, just the housing.
Welded a 3" aluminum pipe to the modified end in order to have a solid lipped tubbed to clamp on.
 


matt5112 said:
Do you know what stock is?
Click to expand...
I know exactly. Why do you think I took my time to explain that this regulator/fuel system which I use for race sleds runs richer at the same fuel pressure.
I am effectively sending denser fuel (less air in it) through this system.

When we compare to stock fuel pressure regulator on the sleds to this setup to run the same tune a/f ratio we have to drop fuel pressure on that gauge.
I should have just said 55-57 psi base pressure to prevent a confusion. That's approximately what you would have to run on a stock fuel system to have the same fuel delivery.
 
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