James.. Nice to know.. thanks. On the newer alts where the output post is in the way of the Gen V, simply pull the back off, pull the spacer off the long stud that is the output post and cut it down.. then put the nut on and cut the post down. Presto.. a little plastic backing work and you clear perfectly.
on that bugger ive just left the lower nut off (sleeve loose) and reinstalled, clears the plastic without trimming. thankfully everyone i end up helping are at least decent wrenches and can be trusted with odd ****/compromises
BTW, did you ever see my answer to clearancing the w coil pack with an IC?
http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=68319&highlight=easy
And you know we just wrecked his "I paid a million dollars for a new alt" feeling. hahahaha
nice solution thereive always used washers or moved it. by flipping that alum plate around and drilling 2 new holes for the ICM alignment dowels lets you shift it down and at an angle, only uses two bolts but you can use the whole iron pad.
on the TR i have two washers rtvd to the iron in those "low" areas as thats where the mounting holes ended up, never a problem with just the 2 bolts.
besides after going through 12 coils before we found 3 that didnt misfire at 13to1 afr/wot, the first and last thing done to that car is removal of the coils and install.
i am never risking breaking one of these three unicorns rofl
stereo guys are an overkill breed, i know i did, even to the point of changing my alt every 6 months...thankfully i sold all that junk before i completely lost my hearing and went for sq+
on the subject of alternators... im going to be running the rear engines alternator up to 17.8v to power the fuel pumps, maybe the ICM's working with one of e dual volt 12/16 batteries. the battery thermister circuit would let me switch between a high/low volt state (ive seen 3800's operate at nearly 18v on a couple cars with charging problems -try to make sure your sensing wire doesnt have any "issues" this has caused a couple overcharging issues ive come across.)
thats another god damn thing im finding alot lately, poor connections and voltage drops, especially on modded cars with repeated connector R/I
the banana spring on the side of the female terminals, and voltage drop through the sheetmetal spot welds on the ground side.
****. the. rust. belt.
you see some of the stupid **** ive been up to lately? :th_laugh-lol2:
i installed/modified a GP turbo kit to work on a mint 70k 97 bonnie l36/4t60 in trade for a 208k 97 gtp heap. took a bit of sorting out but the ssei l67/65e file controls the 60 e just fine with the new bleed setup on the modulator, thankfully the 80e is an easy swap lol
figured out how to control the 90mm DBW tb with our DBW TAC...someday ill actually buy one and do it. probably on the 442 since we've decided DBW is the solution to 23 failed 18ft long throttle cable experiments.
mod'd WBS gen3 to singlepass/gen5 with diverter tongue and post core BBV passage
finally went full tilt on a motor with my oiling mods. dreams do come true lol
ive got a few mostly complete solutions to problems with the damn turbo regal...(LS4 diff mount, billet drivers side tq arm- finally get rid of the iron bracket, 2 stage pressurized surge tank, direct ICM/INJ power feed -**** the factory wiring lol)
as much as i hate this damn toyota ive been dying to swap a catera with a 3800
~rantings from a lunatic~
haha you have a good weekend bill!