• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

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    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

power steering lines



theres another one i need,it has the screw/bolt fittings on both ends and is skinnier than these ive got,its about half these sizes and is about a foot long,can you get it off and how much would it be also one side screws in near the drivers side area near the strut,thanks
 
UPDATE: ok I've had a few problems going on and couldn't work on my gtp, I started last night, I removed both little power steering lines that's on the rack and pinion, no holes, then realized there was a little straight pipe going from boot to boot on the rack and pinion, felt like drivers side was in but not passenger, how do I get it more secure in the boots, would pipe clamps work,I think this is my problem,have yall heard of this causing problems before?hears a pic of the line http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l519/Cody_Woodard/00gtp/20140302_175455_zpsxqr75m7n.jpg

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yup on the back side of the rack that metal tube just sits in the the boots on the inside connecting them together., theres a hole for the tube to live in. you may need a zip tie to hold the boot in place.
 
It flops a little so I thinking about buying some little pipe clamps and putting them on, all my fluid was coming out from the passenger side, at least I know the little ones aren't bad, the fat lines look ok and I got back up of them just in case

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if you had fluid leaking out of the boot thats the seal on the rack leaking. those boots are nothing more then a dust boot. that metal tube, the only purpose i cant see for it is to let air come out of the boot when it compresses to the other boot thats now stretching out.
 


It looked like fluid coming out of it, so fluid doesn't travel through that line? And with the boot I don't see any leaking out of it, there isn't to much to the power steering system so I'll track it down if that's not the problem

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It has fluid running through it, I just blowed on the pipe and fluid came out

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dont think theres supposed to be fluid in that thin line. see if its wet inside the boots, they should be dry.

all mine did was connect to the dust boots.
 
I can't check it today, it's raining, but how could fluid end up there then, I thought some say if the boots rip fluid will come out then replace the r&p, I'm guess I'm going to put the clamps on it and put it all back together and fill it up and crank it and get under it and look

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like i said, the boot is nothing more then a dust boot, its the end seals that leak. so if the boots are leaking the seal is leaking. if there fluid in the boot, then it can push fluid into that thin line that connects the 2 boots.

i cant see any other way for fluid to get into that line.
 


I know it has me puzzled to, but the boots seem to be ok, I've got the line in the house with me, I stuck a napkin on the end and blew on it and I swear it came out, I still have the taste in my mouth

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lol yuck.

lets put it this way, my old rack just quit life, no leaks. the first used one got dropped off with 2 wet boots, i sent it back, told them to get me one with dry boots, next day a bone dry rack was delivered, (it still had fluid in it, they just cut the lines off it) its worked perfectly and the boots are still dry.

so wet boots are no good.
 
I bet replacing the r&n is rough, idk if it's what I need then, with fluid in the car the steering performs great

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