• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

post up your audio equipment

Kenwood Excellon 7" Indash LCD /// 2 CVR 12's /// Alpine MonoBlock 500 watt


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This coming week I'm swapping the CVR's for 2 Kicker 12" L7's /// Diamond Audio 800 Watt Amp /// I've already added HERTZ 6x9's /// Putting a 60 RMS amp on the 6x9's /// Taking out the little 4" speakers in the rear dash /// I've got an 8 guage power wire, adding 4 Guage /// Now I just need to get the Mille Front speakers, and some HERTZ tweets!

The L7's hit pretty hard in my Cadillac, so I'm sure they'll hit twice as hard as my CVR's do in my Pontiac! :th_laugh-lol2:
 


I ran my 1000w amp on my 8 gauge wire in my old car and it got pretty hot, so i went to 4 gauge.. the grommet didnt like it when i pulled it through yesterday, but i got it :th_laugh-lol2:
 
02gpgt88 said:
lol whts wrong with them?
btw, is bridging both of them bad?
Click to expand...

subs are about 300W rms @ 4ohm SVC
amp is a 4 channel so you have to bridge them other wise you get 150W rms 4ohm for both vs bridging the top with one speaker and the bottom with the other
but you still have the bass boost all the way up on the hu and the amp so its dirty as hell
 


Casper129's n00bish system...

First few posts here.. but I figured I'd make an appearance here..

I know a thing or two about some car audio. (Some would say)

The car..

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A couple small wires. (Fuses are in the mail) This will be my first year fusing.. we'll see how it goes.

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Car ready for some deadener..

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Just some little 10's (Wired to .5 ohm)
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Sneak preview of this years amp...

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Little box.. with a little port..

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It's not too bad having a nice shop like that to work in (Notice above picture)

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Battery (Fuses are in the mail)

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A trophy or two...

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Trophy from dB Drag World Finals.. (2nd from right)

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lmao. ^ I was joking, I know what SQ is..

TurboTrav...

Thorshammer? No, that's not me. But he had a lot of influence in the design of my box.
 


well i was gonna replace my 600w for an older 800w. and it was old! and heavy.
but i didnt want it so when i hooked it up, i did it a dif way and man tht hits way harder. :) lol
 
Older amps are typically spec'ed on VERY VERY different standards. They were also designed to be bullet proof because of customer service "issues". Therefore, they typically have the capacity to make MUCH MORE POWER than people realise.

You could probably change the standards of testing to promote that "old" amp as either 5-watts or 1600-watts. It all depends on the standards you're promoting. i.e. ".1% distortion @ 1000hz +/-3db" vs ".05% distortion @ 10hz thru 40khz +/- .5db"

Marketing can make an amp sound as weak or as powerful as they wish.
 
Shontzy369 said:
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2 Rockford P2D412
Rockford Power 500-1bd
Tsunami 1 Farad Cap
Polk 6x9's
Polk 6.5's
Alpine CDA-105
Hopefully I will have a power pack for the speakers soon.

Also my alpine doesn't charge my Ipod well and usually it ends up dying and not being able to play and it just says charging please wait. I don't know if it is the fact that my Ipod is so old or if it is that I use a apple computer cable. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

change the battery in your ipod, same happened to mine but be careful removing the batter.. i wasnt and i ended up throwing out the whole ipod
 


casper129 said:
Small video. 675 watts +/- 5% after a 4x impedance rise. *CRY*

YouTube - 2 AQ HDC3 10's in my Grand Prix

144.4 @ 39Hz

Will be updating in a few days or so with new numbers, wired it down to 1 ohm nominal, so hopefully around 4 ohm after imp. rise.
Click to expand...

Haha, this is why you should look for something with a much bigger coil, vented motor and get some more power to make up for the vented motor. And I don't mean vented pole, I mean the drilled holes in the bottom of the gap. Also an aluminum former + cone would give you some more heat dispersion capability.
 
A 4 layer 3" coil on a 10 is plenty. Heat is no issue on these.. the cooling is quite sufficient on these... they use the same exact basket that the DD 9500 series does... Aluminum cone for SPL.. you're joking right? And my next recone will be to an Aluminum coil, which will handle more power, and stay cooler..

Let's see what you're doing on under 700 watts....
 
casper129 said:
A 4 layer 3" coil on a 10 is plenty. Heat is no issue on these.. the cooling is quite sufficient on these... they use the same exact basket that the DD 9500 series does... Aluminum cone for SPL.. you're joking right? And my next recone will be to an Aluminum coil, which will handle more power, and stay cooler..

Let's see what you're doing on under 700 watts....
Click to expand...

If you have impedance rise, you need more cooling.

I can max out my rat shack meter which is good to 126 dB on 300 watts so I'm pretty happy with that. Not into bass racing so I don't really want to go much further.:th_thumbsup-wink:

Haha yeah man, aluminum cones are NOT what you want for SPL. Too much excursion ONCE and you need a recone. :th_shakinghead2:

Basket design doesnt affect cooling all that much unless you're talking about between the spider landing and the former/motor. That'd be a useful spot to have some extra cooling.

Copper coils? Copper = more mass = less efficiency. Aluminum is a good choice.
 
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