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Possible Transmission Issues

Z

zeppelin913

New member
I have a 2000 GTP that's starting to have some issues. The first symptom has been a jerking while trying to lightly accelerate while in overdrive or while going up a hill in overdrive. It feels like the car can't decide whether to downshift or stay in overdrive. If you give it more gas it will downshift and accelerate fine or if you let off the gas and back into it. More recently the transmission has slipped a couple times when starting from a stop. I previously owned a GTP that needed a transmission rebuild so I know how costly it can be. Any suggestions besides the transmission needing a rebuild?? Not sure if it's related but I recently replaced all of the struts and both half axles. When I took it for an alignment they said I have a bearing that's starting to go and an outer tie rod due for a replacement. Once in a while the ABS/TCS off lights come on, usually after backing up or turning the wheel all the way one way. I hope someone can shed some light on my problem.

Thanks
 


Try disconnecting BOTH battery cables at the battery, then touch them together for 30 seconds, then leave them off overnight. Reconnect in the am and take it for a drive. See if the RPM flux goes away while under a load in OD.
 
FordMan77 said:
Try disconnecting BOTH battery cables at the battery, then touch them together for 30 seconds, then leave them off overnight. Reconnect in the am and take it for a drive. See if the RPM flux goes away while under a load in OD.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I will have to try that tonight. Yesterday I disconnected the MAF sensor and it didn't change anything. Checked the TPS and everything looked alright. One thing I did try last night was while it was surging uphill, I put it into 3rd gear manually and it went with no problem, didn't even let off the gas. I'm really keeping my fingers crossed that it's not the transmission starting to go. I checked everything with a code reader yesterday too and nothing other than the MAF code and TPS I self induced.
 
Third gear will lock the TCC as well. I would expect it to do it in both if it were TCC oscillation.

Ignition issues are commonly one cause of this type of behavior. Might want to consider if it's time for a tune up or scanning for msfires when it's occuring. Misfires show up less in lower gears.
 
QUICKSILVER462 said:
Does this sound like the problem you are havine?
TCC rpm oscillation
Click to expand...

The RPMs don't actually bounce when it happens. It feels almost if the car were coughing and lost horsepower but the rpms stay the same like nothing is wrong. I guess the best way to describe the jolt it gives would be like driving at 35 mph and then manually putting it into 1st gear. Just it happens several times over a few seconds. I'm not sure if it could still be the solenoid or not.
 


BillBoost37 said:
Third gear will lock the TCC as well. I would expect it to do it in both if it were TCC oscillation.

Ignition issues are commonly one cause of this type of behavior. Might want to consider if it's time for a tune up or scanning for msfires when it's occuring. Misfires show up less in lower gears.
Click to expand...

Do I need to have the code scanner plugged in while it's acting up or will they show up in the history?? I drove it for a little while yesterday and then without shutting it off I scanned it at O'Reilly's and no misfire codes. I wish I could get some codes out of it to give me a hint at what's going on.
 
The type of scanning I'm speaking of is actual on the run scanning of the misfire parameters and rpm, coolant temp etc.

It does sound like your plugs are shot. You don't by chance have platinums in the car do you?
 
I think I do have platinums in the car. It's been about a year and a half since I put them in. The resistance on the wires looked fine but I'm not sure how much I value that method of testing them. Any recommendations on plugs and wires?? The car is stock and I'm just looking for it to last. Anything else that I should be replacing?? O2 sensor? I was just thinking I haven't checked the pcv in a while either...could this cause my problem??
 
4) Spark Plugs - Change out those stock spark plugs with new ones to restore any lost power. Brands that most WBody owners tend to go with are either Copper Core Autolites or NGK Spark Plugs. Get these at your local auto parts store also. Others can chime in if they use something else. They range as follows in order from hottest to coldest plugs...remember...you want the hottest spark possible...so running a super cold plug on a larger pulley to combat knock isn't the best plan...ACD's, AL606's, and AL605's are basically for stock cars or very small bolt ons still running the stock S/C Pulley or modded N/A guys...you want to keep a hot spark. NGKTR55/AL104's for your 3.4" Setup, TR6's are a tad cooler...best used around the 3.25" pulley area, and AL103's...are for the extreme supercharged application...3.0" pulley or lower.

AC Delco Factory Replacements: Stock
Autolite 606: Stock
Autolite 605: 1 Heat Range Cooler
NGK TR55: 1 Heat Range Cooler
Autolite 104: 2 Heat Ranges Cooler
NGK TR6: 2 Heat Ranges Cooler
Autolite 103: 3 Heat Rangles Cooler

5) Spark Plug Wires - If you need some new wires, opt for the stock Lifetime Warranty Auto Parts store brand from your local auto parts store, but if you want to upgrade and need new wires now is a great time. Coil Packs, leave the stock ones...don't waste your money on MSD's as they are actually proven to fail within a years time and put out LESS spark than stock units. Companies that offer aftermarket plug wires are MSD Ignition, Taylor Wires, and PRJ Performance. All ranging from 8mm to 10.4mm monster wires. Cost: $60-$120
 
Well, I changed the plugs, wires, and new pcv valve and the car is running better. I want to say the problem is gone but I don't want to jinx myself. Seems like it's got more power as well squealing the tires during a down shift into 1st at about 35 mph. I'll post another update next week as to the status. Hopefully the problem doesn't show it's ugly face anymore. Thanks for all the help!!
 


ive been chasing the rpm oscillation for about 2 yrs now on my 01GT ive done full tune up wires plugs everything, reflashed ecu, even had it tuned, didnt know about the maf, might try that to see if that works

anything else?
 
Been there, done that. If it is the TCC:
Try raising the TCC min. duty. cycl. percent by 5% or 10% across the board.
I started at 20% but engagment was too harsh, and backed down to 10%.
It still does it just a very little bit right after engagment, but hold well under load
in overdirve.
 
thing is i dont think its the tcc on mine, as i can maually shift it into 3rd gear and it will still do it,

what else could it be??
 


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