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Paint Removal.

DanPrixGTP

DanPrixGTP

Moderator
Well, My SD Air Dam looks like complete ass.

The guy that painted it didnt use any primer, therefore after one winter, it turned out like this:
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The guy is going to re-paint my Air dam and hood for free, but prior to me bringing the parts back, I'm going to prime the air dam myself.

Whats the best way to remove this old paint and what primer should I use?
 


lots of sanding, cleaning, Filler primer, some more sanding to smooth the primer..

dont need to sand off the old paint but odds are it will come off no problem.
 
well i prime over old paint all the time, but thats normally better paint to start with lol

if its flaking off by finger nail etc, id scrape it all off, then fix up whatever.
 
I wouldnt mind getting off as much old paint as I can first.

What grit sand paper should I use to help remove the old paint without damaging the plastic to much?
 


I was going to say 400 dry to get the old stuff off, then clean it up, fill in any chips or funny spots, primer 2 light coats, wet sand smooth and repeat as needed til perfect for paint. Consider for 2nd and 3rd wet sand, you need to go up in # for sand paper, 600/800 so you don't gouge the primer and shave it all off each time.
 
its always easier dan to go with a high number (not above 800) to start, then just use those muscles to keep at it lol

better to go light grit more effort then higher grit and damage things.
 
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When I did my cover I sanded with 600 to get it smooth, primed, sanded again, re-primed, wet sanded with 1000 and started painting.

If you look close you can see the chips still in it because I used no actual filler to smooth them out. Its front and center, figured I'd be mad first time it got an imperfection so why bother with making it absolutely perfect. Its not a prize winning show car, she's DD erryday.

Dan if I were you I'd get the paint color (GM Black #WA 8555) and some Graphite Grey or whatever color the center is, and try painting it yourself. It's not hard and if it doesn't work out well, take it off sand and try again, or take it to the guy. It's not like you're painting the whole car. Seen people paint bumpers in the front yard and they came out perfect. It's all about taking your time and the prep work. Prep work will make or break the whole job. If there is a small nick or scratch it will show with painting, so it has to be perfect.

Try it, you may like it. Just go by lowes or Home Depot and get some of that painters cloth or plastic stuff to lay down under it so you don't get overspray on the concrete or grass lol.
 
BTW word of advice, if you plan to do it outside or in a garage, take a laptop with you, put on a movie and get comfy. Helps pass the time by and you don't tend to rush.

You realize the movie is over, its been 2 hours, and you're only halfway done sanding and you will thank me.
 


if you get stuck dan, let me know ill help out as best i can remotely lol

i learned everything i know about painting car parts over the course of a few months of trial and error and reading online stuffs.
 
So let me get this right.

If I try to paint this myself. Here is what I need to do:

Dry sand with 400 or 600 grit paper to get rid of old paint.

Use filler primer, coat the Air dam, wet sand with 800+ grit paper. Do this 2 or three times.

Spray on paint. Wet sand with possibly 1200+ grit paper. Do this 3 times.

Spray on clear, 3x

Now few questions: Where can I get a can of WA-8555 and what clear should I use? Is my sandpaper grit amount correct? and should I wet sand the clear at all?
 
Mad Monkey said:
if you get stuck dan, let me know ill help out as best i can remotely lol

i learned everything i know about painting car parts over the course of a few months of trial and error and reading online stuffs.
Click to expand...

I'll probably take you up this.

Better do it right the first time.
 


Some auto parts stores, local to me is Oreilly's Auto, sell "paint to match" aresol spray paint and they usually have a book to match to the right color. Also sell the primer and clear to match for it. I got the GM Silvermist paint and its very very close, I think a little yellowing on the clear and fading on the original paint is why I'm seeing a difference in shade, otherwise it'd likely be dead on.

But black is black and GM black is black as long as its black... i think.

Then the center graphite grey is the color if I remember correctly.

Or you could pay to have the guy do it. I'd put the money to something else and learn a trade.
 
Well the guy will re-paint it all for free.

But before I let him do that, I want try this myself. Could be helpful learn to for future projects.

Now, a few posts up, how does my "step-by-step" process look?
 
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