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P0453 runs for a couple seconds then dies

aeidian

New member
99 GTP

I had some misfire issues because I failed to properly secure spark plug wires after I changed them out and they rested on some hot points on the motor, causing them to arc. I've secured them out of the way, and I don't have any misfires. Now the vehicle runs for a couple of seconds and then dies. The only code showing is the P0453. If I rev the engine up it will usually keep running but as soon as I let off it will die. It starts normally every time, but then just dies. The fuel pump assembly was completely replaced about a month ago. I've tried using a voltmeter on the FTP sensor, I get 4.8ish at the 5v reference wire when I connect to it and the ground wire. The signal wire shows 0 when I jump it and the ground, or shows 4.8 when I jump it and the 5v reference wire. I'm led to believe that the FTP sensor is bad, but everywhere I read says that this sensor has no effect on whether the engine runs or not. So even if it's bad, it seems the car should still run. It almost seems like the car is choking out and dying, if it were a small engine or a carburetor that's what I would say based on the way it dies. Anyone have any suggestions before I go drop 40 bucks on a FTP sensor?
 


try this out.

relays.jpg
 
inside the pass side fender by the battery is a resistor. it went bad. you can replace it if you like or just run the pump in high speed mode full time. a lot of people just leave like the pic posted forever.
 
inside the pass side fender by the battery is a resistor. it went bad. you can replace it if you like or just run the pump in high speed mode full time. a lot of people just leave like the pic posted forever.

For the next couple of days I'm just gonna run it in bypass mode, because I missed a day of work today because of it. I do want to replace the resistor, high speed mode seems like it would cause terrible gas mileage, right? I'm already getting 15mpg in town, I don't want to go lower. When you say inside the pass side fender, you mean in the engine bay right? I did some searching waiting for a reply and some people say I have to remove the passenger headlight to find it. Is there a picture somewhere for the location or an idea of what it looks like?
 


7asa4emu.jpg



YouTube video I watched shows this as being it. This is a photo from my car, this is it right?

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ynevehu7.jpg


That connector ran down to this right behind the curve of the washer fluid plastic container. This has to be the resistor. Come to think of it we did have an abnormal amount of flooding a week ago and I passed through some water that stalled my car, stands to reason this resistor got submerged and the rapid temperature change caused it to fry, and it was just a matter of time before it failed.


Thanks for the help, and for saving me from spending 40 bucks on a new sensor. I had it in the cart on advances Web site when I looked back and saw your reply.

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Still throws a p0453 code but runs fine. I assume that's because it's running in high speed mode? Do you think the code will go away once I replace the resistor?

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thats a evap code, unrelated. you need to check or change the purge solenoid or the solenoid off the canister tank in the rear quarter panel.

i thought getting it running again would be the first thing on your mind. :th_winking:
 


Oh there's a list of things that need to be taken care of, they only get taken care of in instances like this though, haha. I thought this fuel pressure thing was the cause of it stalling, so I started there. Seems that I was in completely the wrong area. I'll take a look at those two things on Monday.

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I just tried this and on my 03 gt it doesnt have anything in this fuse slot. Its a swapped car. So is the resitor only on factory gtp's?
 
So, im stuck in a parking lot tryina figure out how to get home. I was hoping for some luck. I have replaced multiple sensors, got fuel at the rails but still starts and stops immediately. I hate being confused
 
im not sure if the 03 even has a resistor.

is it firing up at all? check for spark. the grounds on the tranny bell housing, the icm ground on the side of the head? all that look ok?
 


It run all the way to work this morning. At least 8 miles. Stalled once. Then now it starts then stops after a second or three. Tryina narrow it down.
 
maybe the crank sensor is acting up and it will fire up soon.

it ever do this random stall before? if so did the tach drop to zero right before it stalled out?
 
Just put a new one on november of 2012. Replaced the icm last year but with the way my friend been treating me. He might have changed it and not told me.
 
thats a evap code, unrelated. you need to check or change the purge solenoid or the solenoid off the canister tank in the rear quarter panel.

i thought getting it running again would be the first thing on your mind. :th_winking:

Haven't taken a look at this yet, and today the vehicle started emitting a pretty pungent odor from the rear of the vehicle. It's even noticeable inside the vehicle, but it's extremely strong on the rear. Didn't notice it until I filled the tank today. It smells like fuel, but something else too.

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