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overheating - loss of power

Well did the wet compressiontest on #3 cylinder and it was 10 psi more, so 90 wet 80 dry, is that enough to say there is a prob with ring, The end of the adapter to compresion tester was oily(normal after wet test) but had some foriegn material on it hope it wasn't steel particles. it fell off my finger before I could get to a magnet. going to test again and see if any other particles stick to end of adapter. anyway how about the 10 psi difference? Retested wet no particles, but its time to tare this ***** apart.

$289.00 for the pair aluminum heads and $250.00 for a pair cast iron heads, for valve job and heads decked, Seem like a fair price?
 


Update:
Got the injector rail off, nasty looking, pretty sure there was some kind of air leak there on/around injetors.
Got UIM off looks to be good shape, along with gasket. Will replace gasket for sure though
and the bolts holding th UIM in, I did not have to use hardly any force at all to get them off, I just used a socket screwdiver, some seemed pretty loose.

P2070384.jpg


whats that plastic tube on gasket? its not supose to be hooked u to anthing, is it?

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Update: got the intake off, gasket did look somewhat messed up.
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Progress.jpg


Picture of progress
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You can see the cocoa collered oil in the head. Maybe I should pop off oil pan and take rod caps off and dry bearings and re lubricate. Gonna wait till I get the rod/rodcaps/lifter/ organizer before I pull the heads.
 
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I think all you need is one new head gasket and then of course new intake gaskets. Throw in new valve cover gaskets, bolt it all back together and done. It won't be perfect but the more you dig the further hole you end up in.
 
I think all you need is one new head gasket and then of course new intake gaskets. Throw in new valve cover gaskets, bolt it all back together and done. It won't be perfect but the more you dig the further hole you end up in.

You are probobly right, but I think with the compression readings the way they were, I will pull both heads and get valve jobs done on them, and go from there. I got to find a reliable machine shop over here to do the work.
I know there's alot over here just goinmg to see if anyone on the forums know a good one in seattle, Wa
 


Well I only post that because you said you are a family man who is not swimming in money. The psi will always go up when you squirt oil in the cylinder. It did not go near normal. That means it's not a ring problem. Why spend so much trying to polish a turd?
 
Well I only post that because you said you are a family man who is not swimming in money. The psi will always go up when you squirt oil in the cylinder. It did not go near normal. That means it's not a ring problem. Why spend so much trying to polish a turd?
Hey thanks for looking into that, your the first to let me know theirs no ring problem, I will forget the bottom end and do the head gasket's, I am this far into it, figured I might as well do both,with valve jobs, debating on wether to do the timing chain while im in here, its got 125k, don't know when the maintenance calls for timing chain replacement. I am not swimming in money, but I got a second car for a dd, so time is on my side anyway.
 
Pulling rocker's and pushrods from rh head, first three were fine, some carbon build up om rod's, last 3 same except for tiny particles of metel sticking to pryushrod's is that normal ware after 125k.
 
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Pulling rocker's and pushrods from rh head, first three were fine, some carbon build up om rod's, last 3 same except for tiny particles of metel sticking to pryushrod's is that normal ware after 125k.


One more thing are the valves suppose to be flush w/head, cause it does look like a couple stick out a tiny,tiny bit, I thought the springs were suppose to keep them flush with the head, if you rub your finger across you can feel the valves sticking out, possibly causing compression reading's. Hopefully just sticky valves and not worn springs.
 


One more thing are the valves suppose to be flush w/head, cause it does look like a couple stick out a tiny,tiny bit, I thought the springs were suppose to keep them flush with the head, if you rub your finger across you can feel the valves sticking out, possibly causing compression reading's. Hopefully just sticky valves and not worn springs.

You allways see people viewing, but you rarely get any answer's, oh well here is a way to tell wether or not my ring's are ok.
I filled known bad cylinder with new oil around 5 pm yesterday, 2 hours later still full to the brim, and 13 hour's later (this morning) I checked it and it only leaked down maybe a centimeter.So rings shoul be in good shape.
 
You allways see people viewing, but you rarely get any answer's, oh well here is a way to tell wether or not my ring's are ok.
I filled known bad cylinder with new oil around 5 pm yesterday, 2 hours later still full to the brim, and 13 hour's later (this morning) I checked it and it only leaked down maybe a centimeter.So rings shoul be in good shape.

Hey anybody got the one head gasket for sale. suppose I could buy the gasket kit and have an extra head gasket nevermind I see they do sell head gaskets seperatly
is this one you would buy, or is there a better one you recomend.
Fel-Pro 9917 PT - Head Gasket 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix | O'Reilly Auto Parts

And do you know what this vacume hose is called that's hooked up to throttle body. looks like I just have to buy the tee that the lines plug into.
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ive looked at all parts stores for that rubber T, none of the assorted T boot packs i found had anything that would even come close to working.... prob gonna be a dealership item.
 
And do you know what this vacume hose is called that's hooked up to throttle body. looks like I just have to buy the tee that the lines plug into.
P2020385.jpg

ive looked at all parts stores for that rubber T, none of the assorted T boot packs i found had anything that would even come close to working.... prob gonna be a dealership item.

Thanks I found that out myself also, checked everywhere.
 


Hey does anybody have any pics of the rear side of engine assembled, can't remember which bracket's went where on the exhaust mani.
Thanks

I found out where brackets go:
I just brought front head in and had it worked on, machinest called and said head is ready $50.00 so I am asuming that the 80 psi reading was from a leaking head gasket and not a valve prob for that price/Allthough he has done other heads/flywheels/ and sold me clutch's, head gaket kits, and many parts before, so he may have just given me a deal, when I pick head up I will ask what he did to head..
 
I had a similar issue last summer with my 2000 GT. It was slowly leaking coolant over time (my low coolant sensor doesnt work right).
Engine temp just jumped up to max while on the freeway.
I managed to add coolant, and it seemed 'ok' for another month.

There is a plastic 90 degree elbow (newer models have 2 plastic elbows) on that was cracked and deteriorated. It is located on the drive belt tensioner, which is under the alternator.
Get these elbow(s) replaced, part cost is about $11 each from the dealer. It is called a upper and lower thermostat bypass pipe assembly (same part # for both). 1 hour DIY project.

The overheating though, warped my UIM Plenum (I have a N/A, VIN K).
Eventually (month later), coolant leaked into my engine. $1180 went to my local shop to have it fixed.

I think this is the problem I have... My upper/lower thermostat bypass pipe assembly ruptured over the weekend, thankfully right when I pulled into my driveway. I'm looking at it again tomorrow, but from what I could see tonight, it really only looks like I could replace it by pulling off the belts, tensioner, etc. (Not a 1 hour DIY project - least of ways for me). The tube is hard plastic, so it doesn't look like it could fit without pulling out some of the components off of the belts.

Is there a step-by-step someone knows of or an easier way to do it than pulling all of this off?

Much appreciated! I need to get it fixed ASAP.
 
I think this is the problem I have... My upper/lower thermostat bypass pipe assembly ruptured over the weekend, thankfully right when I pulled into my driveway. I'm looking at it again tomorrow, but from what I could see tonight, it really only looks like I could replace it by pulling off the belts, tensioner, etc. (Not a 1 hour DIY project - least of ways for me). The tube is hard plastic, so it doesn't look like it could fit without pulling out some of the components off of the belts.

Is there a step-by-step someone knows of or an easier way to do it than pulling all of this off?

Much appreciated! I need to get it fixed ASAP.

Sorry no easy way, just have to remove belt, remove alternator, unbolt the tentioner housing and pull off, the plastic elbow is inside there, when you remove the elbow make sure there are no broken pieces inside, they usually corrode and break apart in there.
That part(tentioner housing) with the hoses sticking out is what the elbow is in,you see the end of elbow on the right side. sorry no better pics.
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I found out where brackets go:
I just brought front head in and had it worked on, machinest called and said head is ready $50.00 so I am asuming that the 80 psi reading was from a leaking head gasket and not a valve prob for that price/Allthough he has done other heads/flywheels/ and sold me clutch's, head gaket kits, and many parts before, so he may have just given me a deal, when I pick head up I will ask what he did to head..

Turns out #3 valve took a hit was warped a little and need a grind, brought other head in last week and having valve jobs on both, magnufluxed, and ordered all parts to complete project.
 
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