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on my way modding

where can i get the one of them sensors at? well it seems like headers will save me money in long run. Ill install my spark plugs while installing headers then put in my 3.4 pulley also
 


yea exhaust im not going to change to much. Im really just trying to get more power right now hopefully with these headers and a tune and 3.4 pulley ill get at least 20 0r 30 hp
 
The headers make your exhaust slightly louder/raspier and they also increase interior noise from the motor. My advice, fit a cat to it and wrap the headers. Should be just like stock and move a lot better.
 


I think you really need to go research some more.

From your posts it really doesn't seem like you know what exactly is going on here.

If ANYTHING...get a DHP PCM...buy one from 3800 Performance.com
Headers: There is an entire thread on them...read it.
Pulley...put it on last with the PCM.
Plugs: Autolite 104's gapped @ .050"...

Stock cars dyno close to 200 FWHP...and most basic 3.4" setups run about 230-240 to the tire...most of the time. Also depends on the conditions and the shape your transmission is in and the dyno your running it on.
 
I read into the plugs and thr ngks tr6s were recommended with running the 3.4. I know the pulley and pcm go on last because you cant install a pcm that is set up for a 3.4 pulley on a stock pulley only thing i didnt realize was for price of headers i would be saving money doing header install then the dp
 
You can install a PCM on a stock car...why wouldn't you?

Also...TR6's are colder than AL104's...says that in there too. You want the hottest plug you can get away with...not the coldest.
 
You want to run the hottest plug you can, too many people jump straight down to 103s and 104s... no reason for that most of the time. If you have a 3.4 with headers there's no reason for you to be even as cold as a 104. I run AL605s in my car on the 3.2/3.3 pulley. I had 104s in there for a couple months and they misfired at low rpm and I had trouble starting the car sometimes... and I got ****ty MPG. Swapped out to the 605s and EVERYTHING was better. MPG, throttle response, power, starting, etc... I did back the timing off 1 degree just because... but I probably could have gotten away with keeping everything as it was.
 


Plug gap?

Normally too cold of a plug will result in crappy MPG, not a misfire situation.

I gap all my stuff at .050" to prevent that.
 
You should try 605s. You'll ask yourself why you never did after 5 minutes.
Although you're not from up north... I was having cold fire problems in the winter on the 104s. It was a little better, but still annoying when it was hotter out. I still maintain that way too many people are running plugs that are too cold for what they have.
 
I'm golden.

They are $1.99...I change them every 2 oil changes regardless. I put these plugs in at 88,4xx...I now have 96,1xx. They look perfect...AFR is right on target. I'll change them probably @ 97k just to be on the safe side. I don't daily drive it anyhow.
 


I was on AL104s in these races vs my friends G8GT
YouTube - ‪G8 GT vs Regal GS PART 1‬‏
YouTube - ‪G8 GT vs Regal GS PART 2‬‏

The only change here was the plugs and retune for the plug change.
YouTube - ‪G8 vs Regal‬‏

I can't say that the plugs are the reason for such a big difference... but I do remember feeling like the car was MUCH quicker on the hotter plugs.

bluegtp91 said:
I've got a little more than a couple bolt ons ;)
Click to expand...

Your cylinder temps determine the heat range though ;)
 
Hotter the cylinders...the cooler the plug you want to run.

That's my reasoning...I've got a high timing car.
 
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