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Oil pressure light came on help....

G

GTP4

New member
I was doing some scans this afternoon and my oil pressure light came on.
But it only apears when i'm at idle.
Checked the oil and it checks out good, no leaks.
Its the red ligh on the left of the cluster.
About a month a go i replaced the oil pressure sensor cause it was leaking oil.
Could it be the sensor again?
Or could it be the oil pump?
How do you check the oil pump?
 
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The chances of the 3800's oil pump failing is pretty slim. Personally, I feel it's about the most robust oil pump design I've ever seen. More than likely your issue lies elsewhere in the system.
 
Sabrewings said:
The chances of the 3800's oil pump failing is pretty slim. Personally, I feel it's about the most robust oil pump design I've ever seen. More than likely your issue lies elsewhere in the system.
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Since the light doesn't stay on all the time.
Can it be checked to see whats setting it off with a power tuner?
Just like when the ses light comes on and throws a code?
Any other ideas as to were to look?
 
The light only comes on when you have around 5 or 8 PSI of pressure. By then...the damage has been done to your engine.

Its probably most likely your sensor. Those these dont go out all that much either. The oil pump I agree is a pretty stout design. I have yet to ever see one fail. Though I have seen them dig into the aluminum front cover, and do some pretty extreme damage that way, where a new front cover is needed, but the pump gears are still sound and pumping.

Best best to insure things is to actually hook your car up to a test gauge, and connect the line to the place where your pressure sensor is screwed into. (oil filter bracket) Your oil pressure should be around 55-65PSI on a cold start. Once its warmed up, I have seen them run as low as 12-18PSI with warm oil flowing through everything just fine, no problems.

If your test gauge reads fine, then its your sensor for sure.

If you test gauge reads lower than 10 or 12 PSI, you might have a problem.

~F~
 
Hooked up the gauge at idel.
psi.jpg

I gave it some gas and it went up to about 55.
So were can i get an oil pump from?
Local stores only carry repair kits.
I did change the the sensor, but light still came on at idel.
Anybody had this problem before.
 
Like we said, the pump just doesn't fail. You probably have a bearing that's moved and is spewing oil, dropping overall pressure until the engine can rev up and the pump can move enough oil to build pressure.
 


Sabrewings said:
Like we said, the pump just doesn't fail. You probably have a bearing that's moved and is spewing oil, dropping overall pressure until the engine can rev up and the pump can move enough oil to build pressure.
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Yup, the bad signs of this is a drop in pressure.

I would drain your oil, and then when you pour the oil out of the catch pan into the transport bucket, check the sediment in the bottom. If it looks like you just struck it rich panning for gold...then you have a toasted bearing.

Side note...need a new oil pump, dealership can get them for you. They only cost like $22.00 or $25.00 I believe.

~F~
 
GR8racingfool said:
Side note...need a new oil pump, dealership can get them for you. They only cost like $22.00 or $25.00 I believe.
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It is just a gear, pretty much. But, the dealers love to charge for the simple things based off their name and not their actual cost. :th_laugh-lol2:
 
Sabrewings said:
Like we said, the pump just doesn't fail. You probably have a bearing that's moved and is spewing oil, dropping overall pressure until the engine can rev up and the pump can move enough oil to build pressure.
Click to expand...

How common is this?
Man, i just replaced the motor back in may cause of a bad bearing that overlaped.
Please tell me its the oil pump.:th_shakinghead1:
 
Its the oil pump.

But to my best guess...thats a false statement. Sorry bro.

But check your oil, drain your pan in other words and see what you have FIRST before you jump the gun with anything. You can see whats going on inside the motor by checking out the oil. Kinda like reading a spark plug by whats on it from inside the combustion chamber.

There are many reasons why people spin a bearing on their 3800. Many times its due to the fact, they over rev their engine, or they don't change their oil like they should, or they don't fix that coolant leak that's been seeping into the oil supply and so on. One, or two reasons....or a combo of them all, who knows.

Not saying this is what you did at all. Just giving some examples for others to read and take note of. Many factors, only way to be for sure as to whats going on it to disassemble it in stages. Then, its just to learn...not really to fix.

Best advice...don't start and run the engine anymore...and don't drive it of course until you know whats for sure going on. You might be able to salvage this engine. I just got don't taking apart 4 engines the other day, and while I was taking them apart, I kept saying to myself, "Self...if they would of shut it down sooner, there wouldn't be this hole in the side of the block".

~F~
 


The mech says that if it was a bad bearing the car would be knockig like last time.
I found particals on the dip stick.
He says he has changed pump covers before cause they have wear and tear
and they start releasing particles and plug up the oil breather.
Does it sound logical?
 
Not to worry you, but I had the same symptoms this past summer and it ended up being a spun cam bearing. I had about 4-6 psi on my gauge. I was stupid and continued driving the car until it started knocking. I'm now in the process of completely rebuilding the motor most likely because I let it run like that for far too long. For your sake, I hope it's just the oil pump or a blockage in your pickup tube.
 
once again, i think spun bearing are pretty much the only thing that takes these motors down unless you destroy a piston. it sucks, but it's the truth.
 
"destroy a piston" Yup, I did that too, except to 3 of them because I didn't replace the main and rod bearings when I did the cam bearings.
If you're going to pull the front cover off, go ahead and tear it down far enough you can remove the cam and check those bearings with a flashlight and drop the oil pan so you can at least kinda check the rod and main bearings.
 
Bio248 said:
once again, i think spun bearing are pretty much the only thing that takes these motors down unless you destroy a piston. it sucks, but it's the truth.
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Sucks, tell me about it.
I just installed that 02 motor in november.
Cause i spun a bearing on the 99.
I'm starting to lose faith on this motors and cars.
I think i'll move on.
 


still one of the easist platforms to maintain and modify that ive ever seen. only thing easier is a carburated small block chevy, hah.
 
Bio248 said:
still one of the easist platforms to maintain and modify that ive ever seen. only thing easier is a carburated small block chevy, hah.
Click to expand...

X2...just take your time...I'm on my 2nd motor...well TECHINCALLY 3rd...Ed shipped me a freak accident chipped piston motor for my rebuild...My first I blew up due to KR and a ZZP tune:D

Then I thought it would be a cheap fix to replace the piston that grenaded...NOPE...that one spun a bearing too... :(

So trust me I know how you feel man
 
just to use this thread and not to make another...

has anyone ever had an oil pump go out? nothing mechanically changed on my car and there is NO fluids in the oil. ive got low oil pressure now, about 6-7 psi at idle when the car is hot. i just cant seem to understand how an oil pump goes out or if it is even a common thing that can happen or if my oiling holes are just clogged up.

anyone? suggestions? comments?
 
Bio248 said:
just to use this thread and not to make another...

has anyone ever had an oil pump go out? nothing mechanically changed on my car and there is NO fluids in the oil. ive got low oil pressure now, about 6-7 psi at idle when the car is hot. i just cant seem to understand how an oil pump goes out or if it is even a common thing that can happen or if my oiling holes are just clogged up.

anyone? suggestions? comments?
Click to expand...


Mine was reading the same.
And it was a broken cam bearing causing it.
The motor wasn't knocking or anything.
The oil pump would show good oil pressure if you give it gas though.
 
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