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oil pan gasket price quotes?

Poil336

Poil336

New member
took the car in to get the oil changed the other day after the low oil light popped on and found that the oil pan gasket needs replaced. the shop said they basically needed to pull the motor to get the oil pan off and wanted to charge $500 in labor for a $30 part. i told them what they could do with that and found a different place to get my oil changed. but anyways, what's a good estimate for that? i really don't feel like doing it myself, nor do i think i have the tools for it, but the fact remains, it is leaking.
 


errrr... pull the motor? i know thats a load of bull i have the same car, dont know if yours is coupe or sedan, but ive been under mine enough to know that i wouldnt have to pull the motor to get the pan off.... i cant say as far as a price quote as i do it all myself, but it really is an easy job.
 
$500 actually sounds about right. you either have to pull the motor or drop the subframe. both are pretty labor extensive....
 
Well u can kinda pry it out with the engine lifted somewhat on a picker but the easiest way will be to pull the engine or drop the cradle as others have said.
 
i've been underneath it a few times, i know it's not simple. i like to do my own work too but i don't have the time or tools to do it, it's parked in a long term lot at BGSU right now. and i definitely don't have $500 to spend on it right now. thanks for the input though. if anybody finds something cheaper let me know, but $500 seems high to me
 
id offer to do it for a price if i were at home but im at school at emu. an 500 seems pretty reasonable. if u do the job an do it right you would agree with the price.
 


ugh... damn it all to hell. i'll just do it myself next spring. there's no way i'll have $500 anywhere
 
IDk but i might be able to do it, i got the cherry picker and other tools to do it just got to think about it. if you want send me a pm. and the price wont be 500 thats for sure. lol
 
Do what I did. Tighten the pan bolts up. I encountered the same and said no way. I also do all my own work and was not going to pay for this job. You can get to all the bolts, some from under and the bolts near the crank pulley can be accessed by removing the right wheel and spash shield.

Of course do not break the bolts off, but you can tighten them more. I slowed mine down to a single, very, very, slow drip.

If your oil light came on, that is not good though... That means is was really low!

Make sure the drain plug gasket is good too, mine was not.

The last thing I am going to check this weekend is the oil filer tube O-ring, where it goes into the engine. My drip is right below it, so I am going to pull it out and inspect. With any luck, a new O-ring on it will stop it altogether.
 
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That would be the time for upgrades! Go ahead and plan on new gaskets and a few bolt-ons when you have it taken out next year. DP, Headers, UD Pullies, Manifold Gasket replacement, etc...
 
well the light came on after 3 months and about 4000 miles. no telling when it actually started, but my guess was just because it started getting cold and it sat outside a lot. and scotty, i'd love to but i think that money's gonna go towards books lol
 
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