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Not sure whats going on with the car (Modded)



On tapatalk never look at the chat box lol... funny when the rockers and lifters were in no lube and the car started with no valvetrain noise
 
Hardgainer said:
No i didnt no i needed to . But i did figure out the fuel issue. I have an injector on the rear on the passenger side that is clearly pissing out fuel. what do I do from here though? Is there a way to get it to seat better without taking it apart? Its a zzp modded fuel rail. could this also be causing my other issues?
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Pull the rail and check the orings. New ones are dirt cheap at any auto parts store. I usually use vasoline on the orings to help them sit correctly.
 
It turns out that it was leaking on the rear at the passenger pretty bad. Im beyond fed up with this car right now. I am taking it all apart and starting over. At least I have headers installed now. I guess ill just put the stock lifters back in. Could the rockers be bad??? FML
 
and just how long has it been running for?

the lifters can take some time to pump up fully being you failed to soak them in a bucket of oil.

and your fuel line. mine had 2 o rings inside the line, one smaller like the size of the rail inlet tube end, (this one went in deep) and a fatter one.
 
will the sound go away? I dont really feel like having to redo all this and get a new LIM gasket and do all that crap all over again, I got a bullet with this cars name on it!!! I let the engine run for at least 15-20 mins total time now
 


Scottydoggs said:
this taped up evap lookin gline is your vac leak, or one of them at least.

hardsvacleak_zps4d96f8ec.jpg
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Dont worry about that line anymore. After i took my rails off and made sure the o rings were fine and put it back together. I was reconnecting vacuum lines and twisted that one wrong and the vacuum line broke off the opposite end that has a connector on it. So now i may as well get the part from GM. I really don't understand what all these vacuum lines and connectors do in the back of the engine or the bracket that holds a connector that looks like it has two bolt holes on it, then there is the one that looks like a fpr but its not, thats the one that has the connector on it. it also has a bolt hole with a tapered edge to fit on something. I was literally sitting in the engine bay on top of the engine and battery for a half hour trying to figure this **** out. Then i finally said **** it, then went to turn the key and what do you know. The fuel still leaks out of the injector. Stressed??? Words can't even describe this piece of **** car. I can't get putting time in life away to fix these problems that are so obvious for others to figure out. It all seems like its not that hard, but this car is a nightmare compared to other hondas i have built and turboed. Inline 4 cylinders are so less complicated than this bull****.
 
Hardgainer said:
Dont worry about that line anymore. After i took my rails off and made sure the o rings were fine and put it back together. I was reconnecting vacuum lines and twisted that one wrong and the vacuum line broke off the opposite end that has a connector on it. So now i may as well get the part from GM. I really don't understand what all these vacuum lines and connectors do in the back of the engine or the bracket that holds a connector that looks like it has two bolt holes on it, then there is the one that looks like a fpr but its not, thats the one that has the connector on it. it also has a bolt hole with a tapered edge to fit on something. I was literally sitting in the engine bay on top of the engine and battery for a half hour trying to figure this **** out. Then i finally said **** it, then went to turn the key and what do you know. The fuel still leaks out of the injector. Stressed??? Words can't even describe this piece of **** car. I can't get putting time in life away to fix these problems that are so obvious for others to figure out. It all seems like its not that hard, but this car is a nightmare compared to other hondas i have built and turboed. Inline 4 cylinders are so less complicated than this bull****.
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Im not being a dick here but the bold is 110% the problem here. Research the cars until you DOOOOO understand and the frustration level will be back to zero! Its impossible to mod what you don't understand! Not understanding and getting pissed will only make it worse, I promise you that. Then once you do figure it out something will be so painfully simple you'll be pissed you didn't get it in the first place. Its a vicious cycle. STOP THE CYLCE by first learning and THEN modding.

The above also avoids having to rely on some other clown doing the work for you plus you'll be forced to learn or break sh1t maybe both.

BTW all those vac lines can be unfvck with some simple t and splice fittings from any parts store and some new vac lines of the proper size. There is a thread on here somewhere on how to replace the entire vac line system with fresh lines and fittings.
 


I am about ready to give up on this car but i cant get it out of the garage because no matter what i do, it is leaking fuel out of the injector on passenger side rear. Some people i have talked to say that its the modified zzp fuel rail im using and is bent. I took it off, inspected the injectors and o rings, put it back on snug and tightened down the 4 10mm nuts and went to prime the fuel and its leaking like crazy out of that injector. Which is also why its not running correctly probably. I have a buddy thats a mechanic coming over saturday to cut off the female fitting of the stock fuel line on the driver said and put a new connector on with flexible fuel line. I would like to just get braided fuel line and fuel logs and be done with this already. Am i going to have to just get a new fuel rail? How am i going to find out why this thing is leaking fuel? Any suggestions on what to buy to get fuel to not leak, modded rails again? or just go with fuel logs from zzp? I also see that summit racing has aeromotive fuel logs for 230 dollars but they come with -8AN fittings. I'm confused on all this , and its just me working on it with a garage and available tools but im not a mechanic nor am i mechanically inclined.
 
On your vacuum line. Get a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter piece. Then hook up to the TB with 3/8 hose about 1.5 inches at most then hook the 1/4" the rest of the way. IT's a cheap easy fix.

And don't get down on the car. You did the work and if it sucks..then thats because you either didn't know enough at the time or your quality of work sucks. Take the initiative to learn and fix it up. Once you've got it up to par, it'll be good and you'll be happy with the quality of your own work.
 
#1 do research on all of the vac lines etc. and make sure they're all hooked up properly
#2 while you do #1 inspect all lines/hoses for kinks,cracks etc. and replace any worn part. . . or just replace anyway.
#3 take off your fuel rails and inspect the injector boss and the fuel supply and return line. make sure they're not bent or scarred up in anyway. might reveal a problem there. if not re-install.
personally, i don't like the factory fuel connections. so You can always cut off the supply line below the brake booster and install a compression fitting and run AN line from there to your rails. I did this and am much more comfortable with the connection.

as far as your ticking noise . . . going back to stock lifters won't fix that problem. LS7 lifters ARE the factory replacement for these cars now. don't bother.
If you have stock cam,heads,rockers,pushrods,and lifters i wouldn't suspect valvetrain noise as the culprit. Could the noise your hearing be injector pulses? i got that when i installed my PRJ rails
 
Okay, car is fixed. The issue of what i thought was lifters on the front was not that. It was loose header bolt behind the engine lift on the front. So i took the bracket out and just stuck the bolt there and tightened up the loose bolt next to it. I fired it up and it sounds great minus the exhaust not being connected. I changed the o rings on the top and bottom of the injectors. NO LEAKS. I used the dorman fuel line repair kit to fit a new plastic 3/8 fuel fitting with flexible hose. It leaked. Problem is that the front of the ZZP modified fuel rail has a bent flared edge. I am going to cut that off about 3 inches and flare the end to have a new male end to it. After that, all i got to do is get my exhaust welded on and it should be up and running :)

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Until then, she sleeps
 
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