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No brakes...HELP!!

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TDCRacing

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Well i decided to change my back brakes and put a hardware kit on the front that i forgot to install last time (did thefront brakes a cupple weeks ago) Painted the calipers to get ready for the car show bleed the brakes and the pedal just goes to the floor...i've been through 4 quarts of brake fluid...1 master cylinder...and a lot of curse words....



What in the hell am i missing?
 


I have bled brakes before and always start with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder. I also bled the master cylinder.



Man im pissed....no car show for me....really looking foward to that too....Also double checked all connections ect for leaks
 
lloks like i may have to Take it in to the dealer god damnit...



Bleeding a Delphi DBC-7 ABS Unit
Normal bleeding procedures can be used to bleed the individual brake lines provided no air has entered the ABS modulator. But if air has entered the modulator, the system will have to be bled using a pressure bleeder and scan tool:
1.Connect the pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir.

2. Turn the ignition on.

3.With bleeder screws closed, pressurize the system to 35 psi.

4.Select the “Automatic Bleed Procedure” on the scan tool. The scan tool will then energize and cycle the ABS solenoids in the BPMV for one minute.

After this, the scan tool will instruct you to bleed each wheel. During this step, the pump runs and the respective release valve cycles for one minute. This is repeated for each wheel. Finally, the scan tool performs a final 20 second cycling of the ABS solenoids to purge any remaining air.

5. Relieve pressure at the bleed tool and remove it from the master cylinder. Then check pedal height and feel to make sure all the air has been removed and the pedal is firm.
 


I hope i didnt....but it's looking that way...wish there was an easy fix though
 
Yeah, when changing the master on an ABS system you have to hook up to the ABS system electronically to bleed the system. Pretty much if you open the system before the ABS system, you going to have to get this procedure done.

It is possible that when you were working on your brakes that the loss of pressure was enough to make the already bad seals in your master completely fail. But as reminder, if you pushed the pistons on the calipers back without opening the bleeder you could have caused them to fail at that time as well. Either sorry to hear about your bad luck. So I wish you good luck :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Since you replace the master cylinder it must be bench-bled which basically you will fill up the reservoir with fluid, connect hoses to each outlet and either have them directed straight back into the reservoir submersed in fluid or into another container with brake fluid, then you slow push in the plunger until no air comes out and it feels good and solid. This can be done with it mounted in the car also but you still use the same proceedure. After you have done this then you can bleed everything else normally.
 


Blown97 said:
Yeah, when changing the master on an ABS system you have to hook up to the ABS system electronically to bleed the system. Pretty much if you open the system before the ABS system, you going to have to get this procedure done.

It is possible that when you were working on your brakes that the loss of pressure was enough to make the already bad seals in your master completely fail. But as reminder, if you pushed the pistons on the calipers back without opening the bleeder you could have caused them to fail at that time as well. Either sorry to hear about your bad luck. So I wish you good luck :th_thumbsup-wink:
Click to expand...

Didnt even see your post till now. It's at the dealership now so i'll know late monday whats going on with it. I talked to a gm mech.(not at the dealership but online) and he said air in the abs box will make the pedal spongy and the abs won't function properly but the brakes should work.


Hopefully it doesent cost to much and thats all it is. Maybe when they hook it up to the abs scan tool they can tell me why my abs light has been on (previouse issue) or rather tell me wich wheelbearing it is that's bad. I'm sure thats what it is. This is the second time a scan tool would have come in handy for me. I may look into getting one now. When ever i have the cash.
 
The normal method with 2 people and pumping the brakes. I even did the calipers in the order gm specifies it... right rear,left front,left rear,right front
 
Wow this is old.


It was the cause of the operator. The problem was I put the calipers on wrong side. And we had 3 people working on the car. One on each wheel and one inside. The two front calipers were swaped sides. And the bleader screw was facing down and not up. Therefor none of the air could escape the line.
 


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