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New toy/project 1998 Sea Ray Seville



that boats gonna be fun when your done. 150 hp is quick.


from what ive learned by being on boats with just a wood floor, is they all rot out. most of the interior needs to come out tear up the floor, make sure the stringers are still solid as well, the tops like to rot out. if need be you can sister up new beams. fill the rotted tops with resin and glass them in.

what we did to a boat like this was rip it all out, got marine plywood, ( not cheap) and after you get it in the boat and fitted/screwed down tight, do a layer of fiberglass over it all, add them drains too. and then put back a new rug all the seats and helm and all.


in all seriousness re wire the whole boat. that's the biggest problem with boats, the wires all go bad. you know salt water or water alone and electrical wires dont mix.
 
Bill, can't the cost of repair on a boat like this quickly exceed good condn value? I've never owned one, but have heard that gelcoat and outboard motor repairs are expensive, etc.
 
yeah, 1 squirrel making a home and you're screweed!

what about using cedar decking to replace the floor? Would be water resistant and nice too lol

screw carpet in a boat IMO, theres water everywhere who wants carpet.
 
lets all remember what B O A T stands for.


Break Out Another Thousand....... literally.

new floor diy style is still not a free job at all. this will cost a few bucks, im thinking at least 200 in new wood, easy.

Bill, take it easy with that engine, they dont like hi rpm's when they have been sitting for years on end, run it rich with oil. the carbs likely need to be rebuilt as well.

had a 150 merc blow a hole in the side of the block. it had been sitting for a long time, and the carbs were not in good shape, and she blew the F up in glorious style, 10 miles form the boat launch. we got to run, if i held a rag over the hole in the block lol good times stuck at sea lol
 
Bill

I used 1/2" plywood and covered it with MAS epoxy and cloth on my 20' Bayliner. MAS is expensive as heck. I have over $500 in the floor and seat boxes. I needed new front seats $620 with marine grade vinyl and foam. I got my boat for $700. With all the miscellaneous stuff like stainless steel screws and such I'm into it for over $2000. It's not even close to being done.

Don't ever think that redoing a boat is cost effective 'cause you'll never recover your losses. If you do it cheap it'll just fall apart and you'll be back to square one.

BTW the Bayliner has a 3.0L I4 with Alpha 1 outdrive. Yay for the iron duke.
 


and the same costs can be said about transmissions and engines in cars.

Pretty sure the stringers are gone as well. My plan is pressure treated likely with poly on top. If cared for..it won't rot out again before I get rid of it. Therefore it doesn't need to be bomb proof. I'm aiming for $200 total on the new flooring and hoping to come in less.

On the motor, my neighbor has had boats for years and does all his own work. My mechanic buddy is the same. Hell we pulled the lower unit off his I/O board one year to work on it. Wasn't so bad, lot's of nuts and bolts etc like a car motor. BTW it's a 120 in a 100 casing from what I'm told by the original owner. I'm hoping to have under $300 into the motor/battery repairs.

If at any time it looks like this boat needs more than $1,000 in total repairs, it's scrapped and I'll sell the trailer for close to $1,000 by itself.
 
I hear what you are saying Chuck. My plan though is keep the original seats. They appear to be in great shape and clean up decently with a few spots on them. I have some car buddies that should know what can clean them the rest of the way. Been keeping all the screws as I've gone along, plus my neighbor handed me a tackle box of SS screws, plugs and general boat stuff. Didn't even have to buy a set of rabbit ears for the motor, was handed that too. My plan is have it seaworthy reasonably and then maybe sell for next season ... not sure.
 
That's a real plus having a neighbor like that. I can't wait to see how this turns out.

Sea Ray is a great hull to start with though. They hold they're value pretty well...even the smaller ones.
 
If you think he's a good neighbor, you should have seen how much help he was in removing walls from my kitchen for an open floor plan. BTW he's a contractor that builds houses for his own company.
 
Thats a nice little boat there, looks like it will clean up great when you go thru the engine make sure you do all the maintence stuff on the lower unit since its been sitting so long, which is basicly just fluid and the impeller. with 2 people and a floor jack the impeller can be done in like 15 mintues but thats one of the most important things to replace every year.
 


yeah what he said about the impeller, thats the water pump, so its almost maintenance, dump the out drive oil see if its milky, you'll know its leaking oil/ letting water inside it. most of the time its the seal behind the prop for the shaft.

they sell a great pump to with a hose, ( 5 to 10 bucks) it threads right into the out drive drain hole, and threads on to the top of the gear oil bottle, you put the hose in the drain hole, and pump till oil comes out the top hole, its a drain screw just like the lower one, when oil comes out, put the cap back in then take the hose off the bottom drain and cap it fast.

if you take the top plug out then the lower one, the oil will come out faster, its thick and slow. unless its a milk shake it will just pour out.
 
If your changeing the oil completly you can just let it out the bottom. When toping it off at the end of the season some people like to stick the tube of new oil in the bottom hole and open the top hole, then force new oil up from the bottom untill it pours out the top, the theory is that any water that got in there will come out that way, since the water would be sitting at the top. You don't really need to change the lower unit oil every season unless your running the boat every week.

And as far as the floor rotting again don't worry about it just used pressure treated. most boats rot because people don't store them properly. after you have it out for the weekend you need to leave it in the garage un covered with a fan sitting in it for a day.

and let me introduce something that might become your new best freind
Boatlife GIT-Rot

we use this **** all the time. be carful with it tho I've literally set a bottle of this on fire before
 
Specific gravity of oil (~0.90); is much less dense than water. Water will be on the bottom.
 


Uh...who is waiting that long. Somehow I picked up a 24 pack of corona's last night and there's only 9 left in the fridge.
 
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