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New (to me) Subs



I went with the battery but lots of people use the connection on the fuse box. Personally, I'm a man of habit and I'd like to isolate my audio power circuit from the rest of the vehicle as much as possible.

The problem with using the battery is that you'll most likely need a new terminal to accomodate the wiring.

The "boot" you'll use to get through the firewall is found in the passenger floor board. It is not difficult at all to utilize. Remove the panels around the door trim and that should allow you to pull back your carpeting and reveal the location. You don't have to "calk" the boot once you're finished but I did just for peace of mind. I ran my wire up the left hand side of the firewall if you're looking at the engine. I routed it around wiper fluid approaching the fuse box from behind. My inline fuse is mounted to the top of the fuse box.
 
the fuse protects everything between the fuse and the battery, the short stops at the fuse which is why it's better to put it as close as possible to the battery, without the fuse a short will burn up the wire and equipment, damage the car, and potentially create a fire in your car from what i hear

i knew about damaging the car i just forgot to throw it in obviously, i had just got off work at the time, my minds always a little hazy after...speaking of which i need to sleep soon

i myself ran both the power and the speaker wires down the same side of the car in my old car and didn't have any problems with interference, it's just recommended for best quality to run them down either side of the vehicle

and if the bass level adjustment isn't on the HU to adjust, then what is it there for? let's say if a certain song on a cd or ipod has too much bass or too little bass i'm not gonna pull over and get out and go to my trunk to adjust the gain. if the HU goes from 0-12 like mine i would set it to 6 or whatever and adjust the gain from that then use the HU to go up or down with the level, unless the HU goes negative level i would set it at zero

my amp says level from 2V to 0.2V, sounded like a power to me?

but idk everything else i said you either added to it or gave alternatives, nothing really "misleading in a lot of things i say" besides the power thing lol that could end bad
 


Ok so all my wires are ran through the car and I just have a little problem. I don't know which way the amp is supposed to be bridged. Here are two pictures of two ways that I think might be it. If I'm totally wrong please tell me. Since I don't have the instructions for the amp I'm a little lost and I have tried looking the amp up online and found nothing.

Ex. 1

102_2759.jpg


Ex. 2

102_2757.jpg
 
Picture #1 would be correct, but you dont need that little jumper wire in between the 2 negatives.
 
Ok well I got some bad news I hooked everything up and no sound came from the subs. I tried connecting the subs in both the bridged way and the regular way and nothing. The power light comes on in the amp and thats all I know. I'm gonna take it all to a friends house on Wednesday to see if he can figure it out, he's pretty knowledgeable on this subject so I hope he can shed some light on this for me. If any of you have some opinions on this your input is welcome. I know the amp worked when my friend had it so I'm thinking I might have done something to it.
 
Take a multimeter and hook it up to the leads that would go to the sub and turn it to ac volts and see if there is power when you turn up the deck...
 


You can get them at wal-mart for like $20, it will come in handy when you have one.
 
face your subs towards the passender seats and push them closeer to your seats instead of the trunk, you dont want alot of rattling going on , if there is alot of rattling going on (prolly not cause of old kenwoods) you might have to get dynomat second skin which allows the bass to be played loud and make it sound better then that rattling... best of luck to you man =)
 
Emart008 said:
face your subs towards the passender seats and push them closeer to your seats instead of the trunk, you dont want alot of rattling going on , if there is alot of rattling going on (prolly not cause of old kenwoods) you might have to get dynomat second skin which allows the bass to be played loud and make it sound better then that rattling... best of luck to you man =)
Click to expand...

One word for you.... NO! :th_shakinghead2:
 


Ok good news my friend came over checked it out and we just hooked them up on regular stereo and they're playing. I was pretty surprised with how good they sound for being older Kenwoods. I have them facing the passengers and pushed as far forward as they will go. Inside the car it sounds really good and outside you can't really hear them, I'm ok with that it just means not as many dirty looks haha.
 
I fixed my buddy's sound system tonight while i was drunk.... And he had this installed by professionals at a high end shop...

So apparently me drunk > audio pros when sober.

Face the subs towards the rear and have them at the very back lip of the trunk.

they'll be louder that way.also put the pass through down completely. Also louder that way. try it and use an SPL meter if you dont believe me.
 
matt5112 said:
I fixed my buddy's sound system tonight while i was drunk.... And he had this installed by professionals at a high end shop...

So apparently me drunk > audio pros when sober.

Face the subs towards the rear and have them at the very back lip of the trunk.

they'll be louder that way.also put the pass through down completely. Also louder that way. try it and use an SPL meter if you dont believe me.
Click to expand...

take out the whole backseat thats louder.. seal the box forward also louder.. and for him he gets his trunk space..
 
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