• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

New Monster GTP

Status
Not open for further replies.
I really like that set up, where did you purchase that at?
Russosaur said:
If the tube is leaking air I would just spend the 35-50 bucks on an open cone like this or just find some random piping to replace whats leaking.

7fdbae634e4f9de092dedc3e06dae753.jpg
Click to expand...
 


SgtMarshal said:
I'm not sure what you mean about your tube that is leaking air? the problem with those supercharger pulleys is that they are marked for what size they are. your receipt looks like it says you got a intense stage 1 cam, which is pretty good. I would be a little curious about why they replaced all those bearings on the block. as far as the cold air intake goes, you should just make your own. there is a guide in the how to section.
Click to expand...

The guy who owned the car was a GM mechanic and built the car twice. Those receipts were a few from 2005 these are from 2010 when he rebuilt it for the second time. ONE of the receipts not everything.
3630c66e4830840f6ee3522b7a12540a.jpg

SgtMarshal said:
I'm not sure what you mean about your tube that is leaking air? the problem with those supercharger pulleys is that they are marked for what size they are. your receipt looks like it says you got a intense stage 1 cam, which is pretty good. I would be a little curious about why they replaced all those bearings on the block. as far as the cold air intake goes, you should just make your own. there is a guide in the how to section.
Click to expand...
 
Ok cool. Another quick question I was going to check my power steering fluid and noticed that i was leaking a very small ammount of coolant on the ground. Further inspection I realized I might need a new water pump and elbows. Does that sound correct? Its falling onto a hollow piece underneath and dripping out of the bottom from the front of the engine.
 
It could be the pump or elbow. Pressure testing the system should help you more accurately pinpoint it. Get the aluminum elbows instead of the plastic ones. And if it is the water pump I'd probably change the elbows anyway.
 
car off. grab the water pump with two hands, push with one hand and pull with the other, then back and fourth, if it moves, the water pump is dead.

that spot in the frame where its leaking from is the motor mount bucket. its right below the water pump. theres a weep hole on the side of the water pump, if it leaking you'll see a trail from the hole
 


Scotty it is the water pump everything is adding up. I didnt realize they made aluminum elbows either goat i am getting those for sure. Its definetly the water pump then. Thanks guys your going to be a lot of help to me im new to all this stuff. On my way to get the parts now in my other car. Have a fun 4-5 hours ahead of me.
 
while your at the parts store get some thread sealant. its for the 4 long bolts. they go right throught the block into coolant. coolant will leak out when the bolts are removed too, so dont freak.

you need to go look at the lower sc idler. the pulley need to come off or the long bolt wont come out. the pulleys held on with a 15 mm nut, or a T 55 torx. sucks when your torn apart and you dont have the t 55.

you also need to either take the p/s pump off, or take iirc the lower bolt out and you can then turn the pump out of the way to get the other long bolt from the left side.

ill be doing this again tomorrow. when id it last time i didnt know about the p/s pump trick and i took it off. it can be a b1tch t get back on being the bolt holes are blind. but not impossible to get on.

note the pulley removed.

waterpumpoff.jpg
 
Ok sounds good shouldnt be too much of a problem. The owner before me said its also has a very small oil leak coming through one of the rings which I noticed very minimum leakage. Probably because its running around 12-14 pounds of boost lol. Time to get to work.
204d412ebbfe9582beb02c2652bc2b41.jpg


ad9952b0f623d6566793826a62783411.jpg
 


whats funny is i just bought the same stuff today myself lol all but the elbows and sealant. and i passed on the duralast and got a valuecraft cause it was 10 cheaper.

limited lifetime warranty means they will replace it one time too. but i did mine like 3 years ago and it looks like it fell of the list on me. so i had to pony up the 30 bucks for the pump :th_laugh-pointup:
 
Plainfield, Illinois 30 miles south of chicago. Figured Id get the best for her and got the lifetime just in case. People on here dont believe me but I really think its a mid to low 12 second car. Its running so much boost and the pulley im running is the best set up for the quarter. I will have time slips soon on a nice day and I finish this little project.
 
RoccoGTP said:
Plainfield, Illinois 30 miles south of chicago. Figured Id get the best for her and got the lifetime just in case. People on here dont believe me but I really think its a mid to low 12 second car. Its running so much boost and the pulley im running is the best set up for the quarter. I will have time slips soon on a nice day and I finish this little project.
Click to expand...

i dont want to sound like im beating you up here. but i think you will be real pissed when you run a mid to hi 13.

you just dont have the HP the guy told you it had. id check that thing for kr ASAP. i bet its got some. theres guys with smaller pulleys, better ic's and they have less HP then your seller states.

on the face of the sc pulley its stamped what size it is. 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.5, or 3.6. whats it say there?
 


I'm hoping to get mine on the dyno within the next couple weeks. I'm estimating close to 350 at the wheels with a full size intercooler, xp cam and ported heads along with a ported gen 3. also have a built transmission with 2500 stall converter.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top