• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

New hub assembly

Well, super. The steel idler pulley for the sc seized, shredded the belt. But, it did enlighten me to another issue. After I smelled it and heard the belt go, the car stopped surging when on the torque converter lockup at 55. Literally zero surge. Interesting.


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Fml. Tcc code, converter is locked up. Ugh!!!!!! I need to get the filter, fluid and solenoid done ASAP.


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Here ya go. Ridiculous.
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Does anyone have the link with instructions for pulling the side cover to access the solenoid?


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youtube it
there's an entire teardown video for PCS replacement

start here YouTube
there's several parts, part 1 is prep, part 2 is dropping cradle, part 3 is removing side cover
 
You can do it in the car.

Jack and support car
Drain trans and put pan back on
Pull drivers axle
support trans from below
Remove trans mount
lower that side of subframe
Undo electrical connector to top of trans
undo all the bolts around the side cover and wiggle cover to best position for room
go in and do that solenoid being very careful you don't snap the connector tab.
Reassemble and make sure that big o-ring on the cover is sitting in place before you put side cover back on.

It's not so bad. I recently did a shift soleniod in a Malibu. It's a bit tighter in there.
 


It honestly doesn’t look that bad. Mostly it’s small time consuming stuff.

On another note, she drove home again, not a peep or hesitation and the ses light never came back on. What the actual f$&k. Just weird. Vehicles I’ve had in the past have been manual or a 700r4. Manual I’ve never had to rebuild, the latter was so cheap it was throw it away and grab another out of the junk yard.


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Alright, other rear hub, solenoid, pan gasket, idler pulley and new belt are on the way. Should be in tomorrow.


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use the thick factory gasket, aka re use the old one. clean it the pan and tranny mating surface well. then just bolt the pan back on. use no rtv or anything else, dry bolts and gaskets.
 
I put a tiny bit of rtv around the base of the head. That sounds bad. Haha. I used a new OEM gasket, I figured the one on it was going to be trash as the bolts were tight, but it was leaking all over. It’s all done. New solenoid is in, filter in, hub changed, new idler pulleys installed, new tensioner installed, gates belt, she runs pretty good. I am thinking the trans is getting tired though. It shift a little smoother now, converter lock up is positive and solid. Fourth feels good, no slipping, but it just feels lacking. Maybe it’s me.


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Also, I will add this, this diagram is incorrect. The 419-610 is a 2.997” pulley, NOT a 3.5. I ordered the 419-610 from amazon in dorman flavor, but since the shipment was going to be late, I went to oreilly and bought their brand that their computer suggested, which was a 3.5” pulley.
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One more question, I’ve been using the aircraft paint stripper aerosol to remove the previous owners black spray paint from the wheels. It has worked great up to the point I’m at. The wheels are shiny aluminum mostly all over now, but, there is still black paint here and there. It’s not removing it anymore. Any suggestions? We do have a very high presser setup at work, I plan on using it to see if it helps, but short of that, I’m out of options.


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Second rear hub on the way. Started hearing a little noise from the left rear now. Get it before it’s catastrophic. I have a list of about $575 in parts needed and another 400 in parts wanted. Haha.


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Yep. Quit wasting time on them and find a j-yard or craigslist seller that has a full set of the wheels you want and swap em out.

Barring that I'd try the pressure washer route first. Then paint thinner. You have to be careful to not let it sit too long otherwise it can damage the factory clearcoat underneath and then you're right back at square one with having to re-coat them. If you scrub on them I'd use a brush or something light to avoid scratching the finish.
 
I’ll post up a pic after work. I got 99% of it off. They’re looking pretty good now. Just little bits here and there left in the spokes.


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FWIW, if you aren't looking to have them be chrome, I used this on a car that had horrible clear coat peel and the wheels looked spectacular. Not sure about longevity as the car was flipped. Robot Check

Sanded the clearcoat so they were smooth and painted them up. You would have thought they were factory wheels in great shape.
 
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