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New GP owner with engine trouble

T

twithers

New member
Got an 03 GP limited for $250 from the previous owner who claimed it to have a blown head gasket.

Here's the details:

-There is no coolant in the oil.
-There is oil-like sludge in the radiator neck.
-It started relatively easy and idled fine.
-I took it for a drive to get a feel for it and see if it would pop any codes.
-The transmission would not shift into 3rd when in Drive, but it would shift into 3rd when manually shifted to 3rd.

Here's the questions:
-Could it be as simple as an UIM gasket change?
-If I change the UIM gasket, do I have to get a new UIM also?
-Should I go ahead and do LIM gasket at the same time for good measure?
-Can a vacuum leak caused in the Intake Manifold cause the tranny issues, or do I have a separate issue?
-After the test drive, I came back out later to check something and when I went to start it, it did nothing. No turn over, no click, nothing. Just normal dash lights and the headlights going out when I turn the key to start. Did I hydrolock it?
-Does anyone have a digital service manual I could get? I tried to access that EbscoHost database, with no luck.

All repairs will be done on a very strict budget, so the most cost effective means is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 


pull the spark plugs see if it cranks then.

do not keep trying to crank it if its hydro locked the rod bearing will fail from it bucking on the water int he cylinder.

if it cont crank check the battery and grounds, if they all look good try to turn it via the crank bolt, it maybe seized up on ya.
 
Did I hydrolock it?
Can you turn the crank with a socket and breaker bar or ratchet? When you mention no click etc, I think ... it's not in park fully. What does the dash say?

If it hydrolocked, here's what you should know
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/60667-97-03-NA-L36-UIM-Failure?highlight=failure

If you are going to do the work and want to keep it from ever happening again. Plug the coolant ports
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/46931-How-to-Mod-a-LIM?highlight=easy

On the trans..I'd ask what the mileage is. Likely third gear is shot.
 
So after putting some work in tonight, here's where it's at.

I drove the car yesterday, parked it and went inside for about an hour. When I came back to the car, it spontaneously wouldn't start and has made any attempt since.

-I pulled all the plugs and cylinders 1&4 had water on them.
-I had planned on cycling the water out and doing compression checks, but the motor won't turn over.
In park, the dash shows park, but I cycled through the gears and still no start.
-Relatively easily turns by hand at the crankshaft sprocket.
-Put a different battery in, with no luck.
-All lights and accessories seem to be operating normally.
-The Pass lock seems to be operating normally, although the problem of no starter function lines up.
-When I turn the key, all the dash lights stay the same, with the exception of the parking brake warning light, which comes on while the key is held in start. (Unless, of course, the parking brake is applied in which case it is on steady, just like the other dash lights.)

As far as the tranny, and the shoestring budget goes, if it continues to act up after the motor is complete, would it be worth it to drop the pan, change out some solenoids and the filter/gasket set? That may be the extent of my shade tree, driveway capabilities.

Thanks for the help.
 


When you turn the key to start it, slide the gear selector back and forth from park to neutral a few times while holding key in start position. Every now and then mine will do this. Sliding it back and forth works every time. Think its a neutral safety switch or something, but it happens so rarely I haven't investigated it because the little trick I mentioned works every time.
 
Have you checked for a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor as your starting problem?

For the intake manifold, replace both UIM & LIM gaskets (make sure you get the Felpro sets!) AND install a new UIM...you will regret it if you don't do it all at the same time. Take time to flush the radiator before refill to clear out all the gunk. Assuming that the Rad is in good shape, just remove the hoses at the Rad connections and run your garden hose to it using a spray nozzle. Let it dry out (or blow in some air from a compressor), and refill with Dexcool 50/50 premix. Or do your own 50/50 mix of full Dexcool and DISTILLED water.

BTW, making your own 50/50 mix is cheaper than buying premix. Premix usually runs around $15, while Full coolant runs around the same (maybe a couple bucks more) and Distilled water (1 gal) is around $1 at most grocery stores...when you mix them you will have TWO Gallons of your own 50/50 at just under $20...that's nearly 2-for-1!

For the tranny, take the time to drop the pan and replace the fluid and gasket (again, use Felpro!). This job isn't like dropping the oil pan...no frame rails or other obstacles. Go with Full Synth fluid AND add a 24oz bottle of Lucas Oil Transmission Fix fluid. Should fix your shifting problems, but if this doesn't then I guarantee you will need to take it in for service/rebuild/replacement!

Believe it or not, I bought all my parts using Amazon Prime...better prices than the local auto parts store and FREE 2-day shipping!
 
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I tried starting it whole moving the shifter with no luck.

I have yet to lift the front end, so I can get direct access to the starter, but I used a mirror from the top to put a remote start trigger on the starter. I put one lead on the big 12v terminal and the other on the terminal with the purple wire. I pressed the trigger and should have gotten some reaction from the starter, but I got nothing. No spin, no click, nothing. Keep in mind that the spark plugs are out and I've already hand cranked the motor easily.

So the next thing I'm going to try is getting the car up on ramps, so I can double check all that while I can better see the starter and drop it if necessary.

How does all that sound? One the one hand, it should seem straight forward that the starter died, but I just don't have the warm and fuzzy because of how it's acting. Different than any other starting circuit failure I've dealt with before.

Thanks again for all the help.
 


If I block the coolant ports to the uim, do I still have to have the uim planed level or buy a new one? Or as long as it's not do warped that it won't seal with the new gasket, I can reuse the original uim?

Clear as mud?
 
If you plug the ports, plug them.. so the plugs don't cause the UIM to be raised up. Aka flush and you are all set. It is as easy as it appears. No need to plane anything or mill etc. Plug and smile.

Since the starter is doing nothing, I'd check the battery connections and ground at the transmission. A broken ground wire at the trans bell housing can cause exactly your symptoms. All the lights etc that you mention are totally normal.
 
Part solution: I noticed that alot of help requests never get a closeout from the initiator, but I thought maybe there will be someone in my same spot.

I ended up swapping in a starter and the car fired right up. I still have to do the compression check and the intake manifold job, but the first solution was to change the starter, so thank you for the help on that.
 
I do need a little clarification on the LIM plugging job. The guide is perfect, I just need some things broken-down day 1, kindergarten style.

For the installation of the coolant plugs in the LIM:

-At the store, if I buy 1/4" headless NPT pipe plugs, would that be right or are there variations that I need to specify?
-What size drill bit do I use to drill out the plugs holes in preparation for tapping them out?
-Is there a certain thread pattern on the tap that I need? I have a tap that says 1/4" N20. I'm guessing the N20 has something to do with the thread count, but I'd be guessing. Will that work?

I read the guide several times and didn't see the answers, but I may have missed it. If so, I apologize.

Thanks again for all the help.
 


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