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New caliper, line or both?



you need to take the caliper off and see if the pistons are wet from the seals. the line looks ok, the metal line thats wet is the e brake cable. no fluid there, so its just getting wet.
 
you can buy a rebuild kit for like 10 bucks or so iirc. you need compressed air to blow the piston out, then replace the seal and push the piston back in. 04 up you may have to turn the piston out, as you need to turn it in to compress it.

you tube has rebuild vids. its rather simple.
 


Okay that seems to be a better option for my budget.. or lack there of. Say I end up having to replace it would I be needed FE2 type of caliper? Thanks for your response Scotty.
 
i think your caliper is just a standard 04 up rear caliper. parts stores rockauto, all should have it and have a pic of it so you know its the same.
 
Just ordered the rebuild kit.. see how that goes. For 5 bucks I won't feel too bad if I screw it up. :th_laugh-lol2:
 
I don't know if the rebuild kit will solve your issue. The 04+ rear calipers like to leak at the ebrake mechanism.
 
Lovely... I assume then I'm back to just replacing the whole caliper then? Or is it worth (or even possible) to just replace that mechanism?
 


Scottydoggs said:
...is the e brake cable. no fluid there, so its just getting wet.
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I might have a similar problem. I've never heared of leaks in this area, but I am convinced this is where a leak is originating from. (Photos have been rotated 90 degrees CCW from uploading, so picture them 90 CW)

Hopefully the picture isn't processed from posting up, but here is a shot looking up toward the caliper (rear, driver side) at the p-brake cable connection (tire would be to the right). You can see a drip forming. It that's not to say it didn't come from somewhere else, but a following picture will show how dry the brake line area is. In fact, by looking at this sitting down, I see a second spot where fluid is building and will actually fall from. There is a rubber seal (?) in between the release spring and caliper, and it is very wet.

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Below, flexible brake at caliper. Sorry for the washed out picture, but it can be seen that it is not soaking wet.

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I don't know the internals of this p-brake/caliper assembly, but I am guessing there is a shaft going into the body :th_lipssealed1:, and that it leaks. I' will 99% be replacing the caliper and flexible hose.

A quick view from an arbitrary caliper (SVO) shows an actuator, seal and shaft etc... I am now convinced it is possible.

Any experience with the ease of rebuild kits?
 

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thats wet for sure. have not rebuilt a rear one with the ebrake as part of the caliper. cant be that much more involved. a reman cant cost all that much. maybe 30 to 40 im thinking?
 
OK, thx. It doesn't sound too bad.

Reman.: Yea, I've been getting into the nitty-gritty lately. Rebuilt solar stake lights, replaced a capacitor in a TV, replaced a capacitor in computer speaker system, soldered a joint in a timer, soldered a broken circuit board conductor at a switch in a stereo receiver (switch lubricant ended up being conductive and shorted out other components, so that one back fired on me), fixed a floor jack (needed about two capsules worth of fluid), cleaned up contacts in a '93 Silverado windshield wiper motor....made my own burritos (lol)...."Fires" to put out every time I turn around. It's saved quite a bit of money, and I have updated some knowledge while reconfirming many things can still be simply fixed. - The ambition is

Thanks for your follow up! I won't get to this for a bit since I now know a line isn't about to let go, but I will reply back. This is a good site; just made a donation today.
 


The parking brake bracket can be removed. Dunno what's under it.

Make sure you use a board or something to shoot the piston into with the compressor.
 
I am certain that the original poster had slight leakage from this seal at the p-brake mechanical shaft. I would not say it was critical at the time. Topping off the brake fluid would keep it going for a while, but caliper replacement would be needed in a year or two (?). I don't think there would be any immediate danger of sudden blow-out of fluid.

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I was going to try to do a re-build, but there is no way I will be able to put the spring clip back in down in the bore. There must be a special tool to press the compression spring and insert the clip ring - aborting rebuild. It a shame because I have an o-ring from sink faucets fit perfectly, and I believe the material is the same. That would cost, then, about 20 cents (?) to fix the problem; calipers are going for $90 regular, $60 with haggling. Hopefully the pictures uploaded ok; this is a 12 year old caliper - not bad, but it goes to show how good they are !
 
Pics = Image icon > from URL > copy/paste URL (right click image location) > uncheck "get local" box > Ok
 
Yes, I'm aware of it. Is embedding discouraged? Personally, I find seeing the pictures as I read much easier. I am aware that it makes scrolling longer and will increase server storage space.
 
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