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New 05' GTP some WOT problems

I doubt it's making 14 pounds of boost.

That motor would be dead already, chipped piston galore with minimal exhaust mods.

And it's knocking forsure, 11.5º adv timing means atleast 5-7º of knock, as they try to command anywhere from 15-17 stock.
 


What could make it read that high? It seems skewed on the high side from my gauge reading. My digital gauge came in I just haven't had time to install it yet. This was a freeze frame from the O2 fault. It may be failing, or its going lean/rich for a long time I guess? It's been almost 10 years since I've messed with supercharged computer controlled cars and haven't had an O2 fail in probably longer than that. If I remember right the output is from 0-1V with Stoic being about .6 or so and lean being almost 1V?

Jeff

edit: holy crap I forgot I filled up with 87 octane last time, no wonder it's knocking. I'm down to about 1-8 so I'll run it dry on the way to work tomorrow and fill up with premium.
 
I Something weird is going on. This morning I got on it and saw 11 psi and then I cleared the data and this is what I got.



there's no way I should get to 14 psi should I with a 3.6" is there unless I have a horrible exhaust backup. My exhaust is 2.5" from the engine to the stock Y and those pipes should flow at least as well as a single 2.25" the mufflers are 2.5". -.5* timing is ridiculous. Now I am sure that the computer is locking it down.

one thing that bugs me is that I seem to be getting KR even at "0" which tells me this is either the worst combustion chamber in the world or something else is happening.

Jeff
 
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Ok here is one with normal driving. When I'm just cruising 45 or so my lead is about 38* it will range from 60* and when I'm accelerating at about 5" the lead is about 18* I eased in a little harder and got these numbers. I didn't see the O2 output. It usually swings but I have seen it go closer to .8V during this time. I was thinking the higher the voltage meant leaner and I know it's a narrow band sensor. I went against my better judgement in the last 2 weeks and monitored fuel pressure by using my fuel pressure gauge and removed the gauge part and installed a oil pressure sender and wired it temporarily to a gauge in the cab by using a cigarette lighter plug. The pressure stayed steady at about 65 psi at all times. I'm stumped as to why it would be in detonation at such a low boost level. I mean a 8.5:1 engine should eat 4-5 psi without ANY detonation. What the hell is going on?

 
I'll be honest, I will never trust that phone app to spit out any data that I can believe.

I know some people swear by it and that it will read decent but I will never trust it.

I've either used my aeroforce scangauge, my hp tuners software or our snap on modis scanner at work.

Even the scangauge 2 that is a little older is known to be correct.

I can't trust that phone app to read MAP in/hgs correctly or tell me real time/live data down to the 1/10th of a second knock numbers.
 


Even when I watch the Map from the gauge I installed it seems to follow it pretty well. I saw a peak of 10 over 10 psi on the gauge and another of about 8 psi as well. The engine seems to be knocking and I can feel the drop in power it is significant. I can agree that the data may be not exact and could not be held to NIST standards, but I think it is a much closer look into what is going on. Why would the engine knock at this level? I've done a few rolling speed changes from 20 to 50 and I can see as I get close to 0" the timing drops to about 8* and stays there. It's a 5-6 second run then I just cruise. I'm just trying to get something. Thoughts?

Jeff
 
46 degrees of timing! What's the timing when it knocks? Not getting into the scanning debate. A good OBD 2 adapter is faster than an aeroforce. If you have a ****ty and slow Android phone that might slow it down. Aeroforce claims 20x per second refresh rate, torque shows 50 on my head unit. Problem is the more gauges you have in torque the slower it'll be since it has to spread those 50 pings over more sensors.
 
Why don't you have KR display on your phone? You may have to add the Chevy pids in Torque, but it will show KR. I have it set as a graph along with timing adv.
 
if you put less stuff per page it works better, put timing advance and KR on one page, use the large gauge so you can see it.

then another page put your short and long fuel trims. then in another page load it up with coolant temp, trans temp, current gear, intake temp and so on, stuff that dont need to be dead on.

i can say the t app shows the same data my DHP scanner shows. so i trust it 100%.
 
How do you add Chevy PIDs to torque? Is that a plug in? I went through all the parameters and the closest thing I found was timing. I am assuming under full boost I should be in the 16-18* but more with less boost. Heck at 2.9psi it was -.5*. That ain't right. Another time I had a O2 error and had 14.x psi and a MAF flow of 1,990 cfm that seems odd too.

Jeff

at daughters choir thing now and don't have my android phone on me so I can't look now.
 


Ok, thank you. There are so many threads and some of them have conflicting information. It gets kinda annoying reading through the same things and not finding what I'm looking for. That and the fact that this app has so many features. I really like it, I even went to Torques website but it's so full of info it's easy to get lost and spen in an inordinate amount of time reading and not getting the info you need. I'll do it when I get home. Thanks Scotty.

Jeff
 
Easiest way to explain, goto settings from the main Torque page (not the dashboard) then scroll down to manage extra PIDs and add the GM group. Then go back to the dashboard and add a new gauge. You'll see there's a BUNCH more sensors.
 
Booba5185 said:
46 degrees of timing! What's the timing when it knocks? Not getting into the scanning debate. A good OBD 2 adapter is faster than an aeroforce. If you have a ****ty and slow Android phone that might slow it down. Aeroforce claims 20x per second refresh rate, torque shows 50 on my head unit. Problem is the more gauges you have in torque the slower it'll be since it has to spread those 50 pings over more sensors.
Click to expand...

That is only low load while cruising, usually when letting off the gas. The timing at low load will drip to about 16-18 and under heavier load, if I can get it into boost it will actually go negative sometimes other times it will be only about 8-10* of lead.

I can't actually hear ANY knock. Seems the sensor may be too sensitive, is what I'm starting to think.

Jeff
 
The sensor is designed to react before you can hear it, but that doesn't mean there isn't a problem. Did you ever go back to a stock sized pulley?
 


I was not able to get a stock sized pulley as they are out of stock until mid May per John @ Intense. I have a bunch of press on pulleys from other M90's but I am not willing to remove the modular system, I did switch from the 3.4" to 3.6" and have not gone full throttle. Edit: I may have fibbed a little. Just when testing.




BTW I'm actually using a brand new LG G2 (my work phone). The update rate seems fast as it can be. I had the O2 reading as a graph and you can see the swing from rich to lean (knowing how a narrow band works this is normal.

Jeff
 
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Ok so I went into the plugins and did as Booba suggested used the Gm and such and found KR. I then, sitting on the couch I rearranged my gauges. I went out and fired it up and started having data on KR, but ignition advance isn't working. A lot of the others weren't either, but what I did get was this:

Las I backed out and started driving down a street full of kids just above idle I was already getting 2* of retard. A little further moving to about 20 mph I had 7-9*. I drove out of the neighborhood and took a left and never got above 16" Hg and it showed 14.9* I let off as i could feel the drop in power. I drove back to in the direction of the house and stopped to reset the phone, adapter, delete gauges and everything but delete the app and reinstall it. But the data comes up then freezes then nothing. Even the screen that shows monitor status says not supported by ECU. Drove it the rest of the way home.

Thoughts?

Jeff
 
when you set up your gauges do it in the car, car running, the items highlighted in green are the ones most likely to work for you.
 
I tried that too after deleting them and then lot of them were not green anymore. Timing advance being one of them, I just came in after doing that and it seems like when I added the PID's for GM its like it lost the others. Should I have done the plug in with in the car with it running instead of while grilling chicken?

Jeff
 
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