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Need Help

dont know if ive posted this here or not yet.

how to flush coolant.

remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.

get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.

then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.

put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.



now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.

now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.


t stat out, coolant should pump rather freely out the upper hose when you flush it as per my directions.
 


well, after flushing . it still overheats. and today i drove my daughter to daycare and when i came out to leave the car started i backed up about 2 feet then it died, and would not restart. no matter what i do it will not start. it turns over but no start.
any chance that it was a blown head gasket and it finally kicked the bucket?
 
pull a plug wire off the coil, then prop it like a inch over the coil, then crank it, see if a bug blue spark jumps to the wire from the coil. no spark to the wire, you got no spark.

then you can take the cap off the fuel rail on the top of the engine, push the valve inside it, gas should shoot out. if it dont your not getting gas.
 
Well, got back to it, started right up drove for about 3 miles then quit again and wouldnt restart so i had AAA tow it back to my house. But cant touch it today we are having nonstop down pours here all weekend
 


second thought here. does the tack drop to zero when it stalls? or has it ever just quit working while driving? if so thats a bad crank sensor.
 
see a crank sensor will do the stall, then fire right back up or not till 15 to 30 minutes later. or not start for a week of daily trying then just start for no reason.

most have the car towed home and it then just starts, or it starts when the tow truck gets there.
 


Ok, after getting it home and charging the bat. It will not turn over and after about a minute of trying the battery dies out again. So after it charged again i got my buddy to try starting it while i pressed in the valve on the fuel rail and nothing came out, does that mean bad fuel pump being i just changed the filter a month ago
 


Yeah, fuses first, but with your intermittent starting issues it sounds like a dying pump. You can check for power at the pump with a dmm, if it has power and no fuel its likely toast.
 
Ok, found fuse. Its ok, relay is also ok. I think it is the pump, it makes no sound anymore and i have zero pressure on the rail. That being said, is it an halfway easy job ? And where can i find a good one at a decent price?
 
its cheapest to replace the pump only, under 40 vs buying the whole canister with pump.

ebay sells them. parts stores not so much any more, cause they want to sell a whole canister assembly.
 
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