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Need a little guidance on this.

MrPoopyButthole

MrPoopyButthole

#Billsnamechangessuck
This is a different car but I figure we can apply the principles here too.

In my Saab has the 9 speaker Harman Kardon speaker setup, it actually is a pretty good system with the deck speakers being the only downfall.

The stock speaker system:
Speakers for AS3 / Prestige (four door) made by Harman Kardon
Location Size Impedance Amplifier power Frequency range
Instrument panel left/right 2.5" 2.5 ohm 2 x 16W midrange/treble
Instrument panel center 2.5" 5.9 ohm 16W
Front doors 6.5" 2.4 ohm 2 x 22W bass/midrange
Rear doors 2.5" 2.5 ohm 2 x 16W midrange/treble
Subwoofer 6" x 9" 2.0 ohm 2 x 22W sub-bass

I have replaced the front dash speakers and the clarity is awesome now. I upgraded to some Infinity Kappa 32.9cf and these are fine. In fact I may replace the rear doors with the same thing eventually. Is this a good idea...or will it be too bright?

The front door speakers act as a subwoofer, they are powered perfectly by the stock system and hit hard enough for me and have a very good range without any distortion. The rear deck speakers I can't say the same for, they have good midrange but distort the bass. I have bought some Infinity Kappa 692.9i speakers, I did an initial test and they seem have the same level of output but without the distortion (The ones I bought have to be returned as the one speaker is blown, they were used). I would like just a little more bass from the rear speakers since I now plan to get rid of the Infinity Basslink sub that has now died for the 2nd time. What are my options here? I was thinking about getting a small 2 channel 300-500 watt amplifier and push these rear speakers, but will that over power my other speakers? These have a -3db switch on them to cut the volume if you amplify them. Right now the system is about there, just the damn distortion the rear speakers have with the bass. There is a built-in amplifier in the car, will this play a role in adding this amplifier?

I should mention that I am replacing the headunit in a week or two with a Pioneer F700bt, most guys with a Saab say the Pioneer head units don't affect the sound except maybe even a clearer sound if anything.
 


Well, I would take the subs out of panda.

Buy an after market HU or at least a high pass filter. Pass anything lower than about... 120Hz to the subs. That'll solve your distortion problem.
 
Oh okay. That head unit you're buying has a HPF. But damn, thats a lot of money for a head unit!
 
Those subs...are huge and probably won't fit in the trunk of the Saab LOL. Honestly I hate overbearing bass. I like the stock system in this car and maybe I should just run the new Infinity's in the rear deck for now and see how I like it. Just want a little more defined midrange/bass and these seem like the place to start, since the front door's are considered subwoofers.
 
Oh yeah...the Sundown Audio E8 is getting great reviews for it's price point and were designed to be sealed. I think .5 cubic feet? Maybe you could hide it up front. Passenger footwell? Behind the dash?

E Series
 


I was trying to avoid adding a sub, but I may keep this in mind. The little cubby hole I have the Basslink in is small, I've tried to measure it and it would be tight (I have about 19-20" length, and less than 8" depth to work with) I was thinking about trying the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 if anything. But I really want to can the whole sub in the trunk, I don't have any room under the seats as they are loaded with rear vent system and everything else.

My thought was to just add an amp to these rear 6x9s in hopes that it enhances my low to midrange bass.
 
Doing some reading, I guess my 6x9's are strictly for midrange and if I wanted more bass, I'd have to replace the door 6.5's....which isn't happening, as they are the best you can do, because I only less than 3" depth to work with before the glass of the window gets in the way.

I want to enhance my midrange i guess. So I have 2 thoughts.

-First off...give these Infinity Kappa 6x9s a run for a while and add an amplifier to them.

-or fit an 8" driver in the center of the rear deck and amp that, run the 6x9s off the stock amp.
 
The reason I want nothing in the trunk is because I use it ALOT. I MEAN ALOT, my basic guard in the trunk has to be replaced in time because it is all scratched to hell. I also want to AutoX the car and subs in the trunk are a no-no.
 
You could run free air subs through the 6x9 holes? Or add a small box around the 8" subs too. Problem is you'd have to make sure to decouple the rear deck from everything so that it doesn't rattle the hell out of your vehicle. It's a tough situation.

But I'm like you...so I'll be adding a hybrid audio I6SW in the front of my vehicle. Scott Buwalda had PWK speaker design a box for one of his competition vehicles using the 6.5" sub. Pretty neat.

It's the second picture here...

https://www.google.com/search?q=hybrid+audio+i6sw&client=firefox-a&hs=qDD&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=rwe6UZOkMPTB4AOip4BQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=841

I'm going to use their vented recommendation unless I decide to try and design a tapped horn enclosure.


EDIT: I believe the 6.5" subs replaced two 15" subs? And everybody has said they're MUCH louder than the 15's they had.
 


You know what...I think you could get a nice sound out of those 6x9's. Put a low pass filter on them for 60hz and 12 decibel slope. Make sure to use quality butyl to seal them against the rear deck or duct seal even and maybe re-enforce the mount with 3/4" mdf or machined baffle. Then use duct seal all around it to help dampen the rear deck from resonating. Good cheap install :) I think you'd like it
 
Also, they're loading off the rear glass somewhat so that will help output a lot. If you were happy with a lower power sub in the trunk this should put a little bit bigger smile on your face. Not to brag...but I had put together a 30 watt home theatre car audio sub and my friends thought I must've had 15 jigawatts runnings to it. They thought I was pulling their leg when I told them it "MIGHT" be getting 30 watts total.
 
I800C0LLECT said:
You know what...I think you could get a nice sound out of those 6x9's. Put a low pass filter on them for 60hz and 12 decibel slope. Make sure to use quality butyl to seal them against the rear deck or duct seal even and maybe re-enforce the mount with 3/4" mdf or machined baffle. Then use duct seal all around it to help dampen the rear deck from resonating. Good cheap install :) I think you'd like it
Click to expand...

I800C0LLECT said:
Hrmmm. You could always try these too? They're somewhat sensitive so you could try running them off the deck power at first.

Shop CDT Audio - CL-69SUB/CF

They're a big step in the direction you want but I can't make any performance claims.
Click to expand...

I need to look up all of what you just said...I have no idea what any of it is LOL. Well duct seal and butyl I know.

I'm assuming the low pass filter will help the speakers that are 4 ohms on my 2 ohm system correct?

By the way, there is nothing on the rear deck to rattle per say, except maybe the Onstar module.

So those CDTAudios would need an amp right? What about using the Kappa's? They seem to be the same construction for the cone, Kappa's have the crossover which I don't know if it is a bonus or not.
 
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I think you should try powering them off the head unit first and then move to an amp later. I think you'll be surprised. A 6x9 has the same surface area as an 8" sub. You need a 6x9 sub over a mid range and tweeter 6x9 because they won't play as low. You can use a thin bead of duct seal all the way around the speaker baffle so it seals against the rear deck.

Also, since these are designed for "infinite baffle" they will not take a lot of power. Which isn't bad at all...
 
I had my rear deck converted to fit 6 1/2 Components vs the 6x9's it was done with mdf. However do they make 6x9 components?
 
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