Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.
I have a stearing question. I replaced the pump because it was leaking tons of fluids. did the ol turn it clock to clock 40 times seemed fine for a bit
Then it was having trouble turning left. Now it feels like im trying to turn a model A with a ox sitting on the front of it.
the pump whines alil but nothing to out of line.
wondering if i have a bad rack or if i need to bleed it a different way. i did hear fluid pushing though it when i was turning it after i replaced the pump(b4 driving)
yup, about 6 inches. after you lower the frame its easier to get to the lines on the rack, those are 18 mm a line wrench works best, but a open end will do. and i was able to get the rack bolts out with out removing the sway bar as you can see there.
im a lank so i was able to reach in from the sides of the car and get the rack bolts out and the steering shaft, i only had to go under the car to get the lines off.
when installing the new rack pull the steering shaft down out of the boot as far as it will go, then jack the sub frame up to the shaft, then like a 1/2 to a inch more then work the shaft back on the rack, this way the boots not in the damn way. once its fully seated bolt it back on and lift the frame and re bolt it up.
you have to look at the rack for a wire and plug off the rack near the steering shaft boot. its blue and plugs in up by the shifer linkage on the tranny.