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Nasty Plugs Look!

Dealing with the o2s still the car wont run with the new downstream i get p0135. i put the modified upstream (wires cut to put male end on it) and the car runs good but still real rich but no p0135. Do i need to call intense and see if they have tuning info for that pcm? remember i have no bung welded in the header to accept the upstream o2 that connector has a extention that runs to the down stream location.

side note my driver info display has mpg showing just 0.0 or 0.1 and the boost gauge dosnt move when going through the gears only thing that seems to work is the oil mon and the door open warning.. suggestions?
 


you cant run the up stream o2 post cat, that crap wont work.

take the cross over pipe out and have a bung welded in to it.

where my up stream o2 is now. in the cross over, mark the pipe in a clear area with a marker, get it drilled and a bung welded on there.

this is right to the left of the master cylinder in a clear spot, assholes at the muffler shop wanted 75 to drill and weld it in the car, they had the room, just being jerks, so i took the pipe off went back and had them do it for 20 bucks. i drilled my own hole too. i already had the bung, i got it from the same place for 5 bucks.
phonrpics1008_zpse417ed74.jpg
 
alright ill do it! i have a welder ill buy the bung and do er up. sorry for asking but does it matter where i put it front pipes back pipes or cross over?
 
if you can get it in a clear area in the rear header before the flex would be best, i did the Cross over for the easy factor. when its in the cross over its only reading the front bank, not the rear. unless you have plans to mod like crazy its ok in the cross over.
 
ok ty. will it not get the right heat reading in the post position? is that why i get the p0135? cuz otherwise its a strait shot from the heads to the post position. Im sorry for asking all these kinds of questions i just wana understand and i appreciate your patience with me. do you know why my driver info is reading the way that it is from the prior post?
 


ok i welded in the bung. i took off the throttle body off to do it. Phew it was nasty so i cleaned it inside the s/c is not to nice either anything i can do about that? my real question is does one need a new gasket after the TB is removed? the current one had some kind of gasket sealer on the bottom where the coolant passages are and some on each side about 1/2 the distance. is this typical and do i need to repeat this process even with a new gasket?
 
put all back together and the scanner shows the o2 bouncing all over the place. yeeahhh. still smells rich tho. but its headed the right way thanks for your guidance
 
My saga continues. The car runs good but wont pass deq beceause my o2 sensor is unready o2 heater is unready and my egr is unready.

Ive ran the 15 mins drive cycle 4 times still no go. I can pass with 2 failing but not 3. Ive seen on here a blue tooth obd II tuner that connects to a smartphone app. Can i get a link to that so i can turn off the egr. a local performance shop wanted 100 bucks to do it pffshhh.

I also have some DTC's P0171 System to lean bank 1 funny since it was rich for so long. read it could be a vac leak(again) is there a site where i can just buy all new lines for 97 GTP?
P0401 exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected. my egr is there and plugged in but exhaust and and LIM are blocked off not sure why it would not have been tuned out already
P1441 Evap control system flow during non purge. purge solenoid is likely bad ordering a delco from ebay this weekend
 


normal vac line is a buck a foot.

you need to hook the egr back, its that simple in the end. or get your pcm tuned to not reports that code. theres no hand held scanner to delete codes. you can clear em, but thats not deleting like with a tuner.

evap, o2 cat h2o's all can take days to become ready.
 
i wish it was just that simple with the egr. the exh manifold is welded closed. thanks for the vac lines link. its more than thet buck a foot option but i like the look. ill update soon.
 


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