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my header install needs help

gtphayes

New member
i have a set of pacesetters (yes i know, bad choice in brand, but the price difference...) i finally got to start trying to install them with my dads help. i have the front on. went on fine. the back was a HUGE pain, but just got it on before it got dark. but there's this little part that slides into a hole on the driver side of the back header then has another hole under it to bolt it on. well the hole in the pacesetters is to small. and it doesn't pop in. anyone else with the pacesetters have that problem? or was it just my set? only idea i can think of would to be drill it out to be a bit bigger? the only problem would be getting to it with the drill. i was hoping to finish it tomorrow.
when i looked into getting the headers, i looked up a bunch of threads, and asked many questions. and never remember hearing about this as a problem. main problems were wrong size bolts, and crappy gaskets.
 


My egr never really fit in there snug. I just positioned it so that I could tighten it on there as well as I could and put a little rtv around it. Either do that or delete the egr with a penny.
 
with a penny?
and i positioned it perfect and it doesn't fit at all. i didn't try. figured i'd get on here and see what people said before i tried anything.
 
with a penny?
and i positioned it perfect and it doesn't fit at all. i didn't try. figured i'd get on here and see what people said before i tried anything.

Penny on the header side. Nickle on the block side.
 
Take the 1 bolt out where the egr tube bolts onto the engine at and put a nickle there..I cut my egr tube off of the little bracket and took the egr compleatly off. Do the same on the header side but use the penny. They cover the hole perfectly and you use the bracket to hold them in place.
 


When we installed Reptile's original Pacesetter headers, we cut about an 1/8" off of the EGR tube because it doesn't go in as far. Then we cut about an 1/8" long slot in the end of the tube so we could pinch it together a little. After that, it slipped in and tighten down as normal with no leak. IIRC, we put a little high temp RTV on it too.
 
ohhhh,ok i get it. and abrasive that was what my told told me what the best thing he could think of was. and he also just reminded about an o2 sensor question. to get them off i had to cut em. there are 3 brown wires. one is a lighter shade. the other two look exactly the same. it matter which goes to which when i splice them back? or did i screw myself over by doing that?
 
oooo why did you cut them. my buddy spliced mine for the back 02 (front had the extension) but i think mine were all different colors. anyways it works fine.

i think i might just delete my egr next time i have my headers off (gotta fix some leaks) is the check engine light gonna stay on??
 
only way i could get them off...i have the extension. and why delete it if you don't have to? and the bandclamps i have ended up being to small... so i'll have as many leaks as you did at first.
 
The two wires that are the same color is for the heating element. It does not matter about the polarity for those. So just match them up. The other wire is for the sending unit.
 


oooo why did you cut them. my buddy spliced mine for the back 02 (front had the extension) but i think mine were all different colors. anyways it works fine.

i think i might just delete my egr next time i have my headers off (gotta fix some leaks) is the check engine light gonna stay on??


Yeah the it will throw an egr code.
 
sweet, didn't wanna have to find out if it mattered the hard way. thanks! hope the leaks i know i'll have wont make the car sound worse then stock
 
i dont know if my egr is sealed up all the way, and you dont really need. makes for a cleaner looking engine campartment. thats why.

talk to reptile, he can get the right clamps that you need.
 


and the leaks will make it sound worse than stock. i think all headers make the car sound worse then stock they give off that brahhhhhh sound that is not pleasent.
 
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