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My Baby - 2000 Silver Mist GTP :) lots of pics!

all i know is if you gonna break it, really break it. you pulled that off good.

to me it seems like the valve failed and bent and locked up. cam pushed the push rod up and its travel was stopped from the bent valve and snapped the push rod.
 


Ok, so brought my head to machine shop to look at the valve guide, he didn't like the valves, seems they were a little galled, oil starved or the fuel dump washed the oil from them. The valve definitely got stuck, but the keepers were intact. Now I'm thinking to replace all the valves, so other than ZZP, where from? I checked Comp Cams and couldn't find the stock valves there, or can I call them? Let me know... Would like the Manley HD type valves but not sure they make them in stock. Intense has HD type, but for larger valves and I'm recutting the seats, stock is fine by me.

Last thoughts... I now have YT RR's in both 1.8 and 1.9, so... Who here has run, or is aware of running the 1.8 intake, 1.9 Exhaust? With the Overkill BBC cam, the exhaust would then be .6023... I have PAC-105's and a double roller timing chain. Heads are STGII for .600 lift. So then is +.0023 an issue? Lol... I could just do the clay check when assembling the heads to be sure, but thought I'd just ask.

thanks for listening : )
 
3/8" Push rods fit these engines/heads?

also, #130 springs needed for +.570 or .600 lift? OverKill's BBC cam has agressive ramp rates, so thinking to bump springs up to #130's. Got some feedback to upgrade PR's as the stock YT's aren't made to handle heavier springs...

thanks for for your thoughts.
 
Scottydoggs said:
all i know is if you gonna break it, really break it. you pulled that off good.

to me it seems like the valve failed and bent and locked up. cam pushed the push rod up and its travel was stopped from the bent valve and snapped the push rod.
Click to expand...

Yeah, think so... From what I could see close up, it looks like oil starvation, so not sure the 2nd time I pulled the front cover, it was pumping oil :( valve could've been sticking before as well and would explain my major vac leak.

anyways...

After checking specs on numerous pages and vendor product data, I've come to the conclusion the #105 springs are fine for the lift I'm going to run. Is annoying anymore to fish and dig to find information, lol. But is all good... Ordered better pushrods, Intense .83x7.30 to replace the stock YT on the RR's, leaving the Pac Spings, order all new valves too, just didn't like how a few felt, so what the hell at this point. Keeping the double roller so if I do decide to go #130's it's already set.

I was really considering putting stock rockers back... But no... Go BIG or go home right? :D

Interestingly, I couldn't remove the oil pump cover from the front cover, had to drill out the screws, what a PITA. And really, after measuring it all, it's the gaskets that clear the chain to cover, so I think the one I have is home made. My buddy has the right equipment, so I'll take a .010 off the cover too to be safe. Or just run double gasket, lol.

Getting the itch to get it together and on the road again... I miss my GTP.
 
Engine is back together...


IMAG02712_zps9m37guco.jpg


Just waiting on new brake lines, going to replace them while the bay is opened this time, what's a few more days right? Also, not putting the North* on, going back to stock TB for now. Will use the N* and 80# injectors once all is dialed in and ready for E85.

: )
 
And oh, by the way... Seems taken a long time to do a build, or rebuild, there winds up being lots of parts you don't even realize you have, then have more. Basically, I have a Top Swap Engine sitting there with an XP Cam, quite a few sets of gaskets, which makes at least a full engine set, have stock timing chain, tensioner, YT 1.9's, 40# injectors, 105# valve springs, old used pacesetters, used MLS gasket, etc., Lolz... Seems when I'm all done I may have a garage sale ; )
 


Engine looks good man! I like it. You got it back together pretty quick, I'd say.

Good luck with the new brake lines. Doing my as well. Did you get them from Classic Tube? Also, how are you're fuel lines? Messing around with those brake lines, you might agitate the (possibly/likely) rusty fuel lines and make them start leaking.
 
CHI2000GTP said:
Engine looks good man! I like it. You got it back together pretty quick, I'd say.

Good luck with the new brake lines. Doing my as well. Did you get them from Classic Tube? Also, how are you're fuel lines? Messing around with those brake lines, you might agitate the (possibly/likely) rusty fuel lines and make them start leaking.
Click to expand...

Thanks and yeah, ordered them from Classic, figured I was pressed for time, didn't want to deal with shaping it all, flaring etc. They are currently on about a 10-12 working day lead time to ship. Have a fresh set of Powder Coated F-Body calipers and Goodrich braided lines going in as well, sure they'll feel nice once done.

Fuel lines look sad too but not quite as bad. If they go I'll probably just run braided lines and swap over to AN fittings, there's much advantage to that, also maybe give me an excuse to buy rails.

PRJ's anyone? Anyone....?
lol

I'll touch up the paint once the engine is back in, but haven't done so much cosmetics this time, seems the more you go back in, the less you care, Hahahaha.

In-between all this, my daughter wrecked her car, totaled, needed a new one, was torture, and finally found one, then had to buy a get around car for the interim, so found a 2000 BMW330XI that has typical BMW crapola going on so been wrenching that as well., was a good price though and have fixed all issues. Lmao... Cars are killing me lately!
 
Ok, so brake lines are done. Classic Tube is ok, there's issues though, they left out one piece and the driver rear piece is too long. Had to use some NiCopp for the time being. You cannot cut and flare this Stainless Tube with regular flare tools. So I'm sending them the piece back to flare. I'll replace it later. Anyways...

Engine is back in...

IMAG0296_zpsmhedkatu.jpg



IMAG0297_zps57uoihi8.jpg


: )
 


The block seized... Never opened up the bottom end to take a look. Yeah, been a long time, too

This build is the original engine from my car, put all the go fast parts on it. So anything wrong this time, it's all mine! Lol... Have one engine left, a Top Swap from the donor parts car... But I hope it won't be needed. Not sure I could do this a third time in 6 months.

It's been a lot, built engine, then parts car engine/trans taken out, then my car engine/trans out, then put built engine/parts car trans together, put in car, blew engine, take dead engine/trans out, take good engine apart, take parts from blown engine, got heads checked, swapped all parts over, cam, new valves, seals, heavier pushrods, did the GenV mod to stock TB, (N* goes back later), engine and trans put together, put in car, replaced brake lines, lost trans line clips, lol, new front calipers... Exhausting!

Its been een a long strange trip!
: )
 
Ok, can't figure out how the vid's are different now, no embedding? But here's the link to First Start #2, lol...


[video]http://vid1165.photobucket.com/albums/q587/Cooolone/VIDEO00062_zpsmkc2m9ch.mp4[/video]
 
Lol... Nothing breaking this time (fingers crossed) :D

took it for a drive around the block, let things heat up, top off fluids. Feels good and is weird driving her again! Will have to reacquaint with the GTP and front heavy beast as it is. Great news is trims aren't pegged like whatever happened in last build, Vac is good, pulling 16# (+/-) at idle, love the electric WP too. And I forgot how loud the 3" exhaust makes it, hahahaha, my neighbors must've hated me leaving at 4:30am with the beast.

So now I need some time to start dialing her in : )
 


Man, didn't realize it's been so long I had it together... Got it out for a few drives, man it's sweet! Haven't completely dialed it in, got lazy because its running good! Will try to get it out this week, finish the base tune and start dropping pulleys.

Did notice and interesting change and wondered if it's something I should track down. But I took it to out for a cruise, and hour drive and the coolant temp is a bit high compared to pre-build. I did change the collant sensor, just because... But I'm wondering if the trans is a leading contributor? It's 3.29 geared and I didn't put the trans cooler in yet. Temps got up to 206-210... Much higher than I ever encountered with stock. Any thoughts? I programmed the tune for the gear ratio, lowered shift times and left pressures alone for now.

Appreciate any input, TIA.
 
mine runs hotter in the summer time. my GXP hits 200-210 every day when I'm driving home in the heat, my 2001 gtp has a trans cooler, so it runs in the 190 ish range
 
2002 GT all stock..... 195-205 in the cooler weather, 200-210 in the warmer. I have seen 220 in really hot weather and slow driving.
 
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