• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!!

ItHurtz said:
needs flowmaster or spintech!
Click to expand...

Right now it's just straight pipes with the big 6.0L cats. Pretty chill at idle, but it gets ROWDY when you step on it. :th_biggrin1:

Couple more items off the checklist. Got the fuel gauge working. Just needed to run the sender wire to ground through the level sender.

More importantly... It shifts! Took it around the block and it slid into 2nd. Didn't want to take it any farther than that. With a 2.73 rear end and a 235/75-R15 tire, you run out of road pretty quickly. Anyhow, the math to get that Dakota Digital pulse generator was pretty intense (for a dummy like me at least). I never would have figured it out without the help of Brendan at LT1Swap.com. Big shout out to that guy. Here's the story problem math I used to get it working. The numbers are specific to my application and the tire I plan to run in the future, but the math should work for anyone looking to do the same thing. I'm mostly posting for my own future reference. Everything was done using HPTuners.



First, apply the 31” tire size (30.5 actual) and 2.73 axle ratio correction to all the shift tables using the "Gear/Tire Wizard." Leave the 40 pulse per trans rotation setting alone for now.


Trans revolutions per mile:
Tire size (30.5" diameter, OR 684 revolutions per mile) multiplied by the axle ratio (2.73), will result in 1867.32 drive shaft revolutions per mile. *Calculated by Gear/Tire Wizard*


VSS P/Rev - Trans:
8 pulses per rev (Dakota Digital output) DIVIDED by 1.9444 (35 driven / 18 drive) from the speedo gear output. Equals 4.11438 Pulses per trans revolution *Manually calculated*


VSS Pulses per mile:
1867.32 (drive shaft revolutions per mile) DIVIDED by 1.9444 (sensor revolutions per driveshaft revolution). Equals 960.358 sensor revolutions per mile. 960.358 (sensor revolutions per mile) times 8 (Dakota Digital pulses per revolution output) equals 7682.864 Pulses per mile. *Manually calculated*



All that's left on the short list is the trans cooler. Just set the 40k in place for now:

51265705089_37987dca5f_k.jpg
 


Trans cooler is in and plumbed. No leaks first try! I should have taken a picture before I put the grill in, but I was in a hurry to wrap it up. Lunch was calling. I hate making AN lines, but I love them when they're done.

51271772254_389e01d9c5_k.jpg


After lunch I filled the T-case (oops!), topped off the trans fluid (too much I think) and dumped a bottle of radiator cleaner in it and gave it it's first full heat cycle. ECT held steady at 196° and the trans temp was right around 145°. Should be ready for actual coolant tomorrow. I noticed it had a slight idle hang when slowing down. Not sure if that's a function of less resolution from the VSS, or something else. I can work on that later. There are still lots of little loose ends to tie up, but as of right now I'm saying it's ready for emissions testing.

51271219253_79fc2c2b82_k.jpg


Loose ends off the top of my head:
Full clean up. Needs a wash and interior detail. There's an inch of dust on everything from sitting for two years and the bed is full of leftovers.
Radiator overflow jug.
Tires. A set of raised white letter 31x10.5-R15's should look fantastic on that truck.
Hook up the tach,
Add a brake switch signal to the PCM (maybe?)
Hook a 4wd low signal to the PCM
Loom all the wires.

It's so much nicer working on this in the driveway and not in the dirt in the backyard!
 
idrivejunk said:
Burn rubber, man!
Click to expand...

In due time sir. It's going to be a struggle with that 2.73 rear end, but I can try. Should probably have a built transmission on the shelf before I get too crazy.

Couple more things off the list. I think I fixed the hanging high idle. Killed the throttle cracker in the tune. I may have to revisit this later, but for now I'm happy. Fully flushed the cooling system and topped off with 50/50 green. I really like that Prestone radiator flush stuff. Coolant overflow jug is also in. Forgot I had that stashed on a shelf. Tach works again. All the old wiring was still there. I just had to fish a wire from Red 10 and switch the tack to 4 cylinder. Finally, I wired in the TCC brake switch (I think). Because the truck originally came from factory with an AOD trans with lockup, it already had a 4 pin brake switch. I don't think I will know for sure if that's good until I hit the highway and the torque converter either locks or it doesn't.
 
Last edited:
That was just my way of saying enjoy. :) To me, the truck looks and by your account is... just about... ready to go do truck stuff like only a square short wide can do. With it's Batmobile color scheme and eager stance. Sharp. Fairly valuable. I dig. Sure ain't getting any easier though is it? Fixing old stuff. Keep plenty of use-and-enjoy effort mixed in with your labor-and-earn disciplines. Hope this project is smooth sailing once it hits the road, and does what you want with minimal additional hassles.
 


Coming along nicely. If you happen to pull the grill out for anything, I might suggest painting the cooler brackets flat black.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Coming along nicely. If you happen to pull the grill out for anything, I might suggest painting the cooler brackets flat black.
Click to expand...

Sigh. I really wanted too. I'm pretty sure my kid used up all the flat painting who knows what, so I had to shoot them with gloss. Honestly though, the whole thing pretty much disappears unless you are right up on it looking level into the grill. ...I'll still probably reshoot them in the future. I debated *very lightly* spraying the cooler too. Just to take the "new" off of it.

Anyhow, It's on the road again! Passed emissions. Took a whole lot of running around, 2 tests and a waiver from the referee. Something worth noting... do your research before going in. Hypothetically, if my donor engine was from 2001, I would have needed an EGR and AIR pump. Since (according to my memory) the donor engine was from a 2003, I didn't need that stuff. According to their rules, the engine must be newer than the original, larger than the original, and have ALL the emissions equipment from the donor vehicle. Once I provided the referee a vin from a 2003 Yukon, I was set. Already had the cats and 4 O2's.

As you can see, it didn't pass the idle quality first time around. I'm not sure if it was because of the cam or the placement of the cats, but first time on pure 87 was a no go. Fortunately I planned ahead and left home with only 1/2 tank of gas. After the initial failure, I topped it off with E85 and raised the idle. After that, all good. I even got to keep my custom plate!

Next should be getting some new tires, and wiring on a MIL. But for now I'm just going to enjoy it.

51285878291_599111d41f_k.jpg
 
Good deal! Emissions testing can be a PITA. Time to take a long cruise to nowhere in it just to enjoy it and let it stretch it's legs a bit.
 
Congrats on the emissions pass. Quite a line of hurdles you have jumped. :) Hope you get to pass a gas station now and then too. he hee
 
FordMan77 said:
Good deal! Emissions testing can be a PITA. Time to take a long cruise to nowhere in it just to enjoy it and let it stretch it's legs a bit.
Click to expand...

I could not agree more! On both accounts.

idrivejunk said:
Congrats on the emissions pass. Quite a line of hurdles you have jumped. :) Hope you get to pass a gas station now and then too. he hee
Click to expand...

Haha! Thank you. I think this truck might not be too bad. Not as bad as the S10 anyway. With a 2.73 rear gear and a (eventually) 31" tire, the highway RPM's will be pretty low. Probably too low. According to the math, I will be turning 1621 RPM's at 75 mph in OD or 2316 in D3. All the running around I did yesterday in town, I just left the thing in D3. Seemed to be pretty happy there. Didn't put it in OD till I hit the highway. I think eventually I'll have to regear it.

Or do I axle swap it... Maybe some 3/4 ton's? Hmmm...
 


maybe an 88-98 heavy half ton. 9.5" and semi float. I'm sure you know about them already. I found one locally for 100 bucks and went and picked it up. it has a 3.42 final drive and is supposed to be a G80. still sitting in my back yard. but it's heavy as hell and would be bad to ship. the 2 wheel drive versions are supposed to be narrower than the 4x4 versions.
 
SgtMarshal said:
maybe an 88-98 heavy half ton. 9.5" and semi float. I'm sure you know about them already. I found one locally for 100 bucks and went and picked it up. it has a 3.42 final drive and is supposed to be a G80. still sitting in my back yard. but it's heavy as hell and would be bad to ship. the 2 wheel drive versions are supposed to be narrower than the 4x4 versions.
Click to expand...

I know next to nothing about 4x4 truck axles. I will have to educate myself on them soon. It looks like it's going to be substantially cheaper to do complete axle swaps (myself) than pay someone to do a ring and pinion change. I'd like to add lockers at that time also. That's also on the list of long term fixes. For now I just drive around in D3 I guess.

All the things done since it was sent off for completion:

51291830550_d1958f62c2_k.jpg


One thing not on the list... A MIL. I rigged up this light as a temporary solution. Not exactly in the line of sight, but the hole was already there. Eventually I'll add something to the ICP. This is good for now though. I'm on the hunt for an original '73-'87 "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" lense filter that goes in place of the CHOKE.

51292176601_8db8492601_k.jpg


And some pictures of the engine as it currently sits.

51292353778_970b1e1efa_k.jpg


51292893459_372867a090_k.jpg


51292176506_2dddb0d174_k.jpg
 


Scottydoggs said:
twin turbo it, grand parents would be proud of ya lol
Click to expand...

I have no doubt this is true. However... Knowing what I know now about emissions testing, there is no way I could get anything like that past the Stasi. If the rules ever change, my plans might change. As for now, she's staying NA. Now the S10 on the other hand... That might get a toolbox turbo some day.

Took care of something that's been nagging me since day one. This truck only came with one key, and it was a copy. Plus, the 37 year old ignition cylinder was pretty wore out. To the point that you could pull the key out with the truck running. Not cool. So I ordered up an AC Delco cylinder with matching keys.

51297824005_8a21f15dbf_k.jpg


Hardest part was getting one little snap ring off.

51297824130_b85d04cdff_k.jpg


Everything in order.

51296070437_3681b68fe3_k.jpg


Back together, and it still runs!

51296070632_0a19d3e9f8_k.jpg


Not 100% sure if this is the original cylinder, but I'm still going to hold on to it. Just toss it in the box of other OEM take off that I may need someday. The old RR key tag stays with the new keys.

51296991508_2c9b558bcc_k.jpg


New door lock cylinders are on their way also. It's probably just me, but nothing satisfies like SHARP, fresh, matched, OEM key(s). I switched out the ignition and door lock cylinders on my S-10 also. This is a great way to add a little "new" feeling to an old vehicle. Knowing that I have the only possible key combination for a vehicle gives me a little piece of mind also. It's the small things.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top