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Multiple Misfires After Radiator Install

sdavis11b

sdavis11b

New member
I recently had my transmission cooler explode inside my radiator so I took the necessary steps and replaced it. Now, after its all back together, im getting multiple misfires as well as the misfire code. Ive cleaned the MAF, changed the plugs, changed the coils, made sure nothing was disconnected, checked the vacuum lines and still have no idea what the issue is. I did have a pretty bad exhaust leak on one of the header clamps so I replaced that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 


Most likely it would be the front plug wires. Since you likely had to manhandle the wiring harness, try giving that some movement and seeif the issue clears or gets worse.
 
It also struggles to idle before the AFR shoots up to 16.8. Seems like the PCM attempts to give it more fuel to prevent it from dying.
 


Replaced the vac lines above the LIM, checked the PCV, cleaned the EGR, even left the NEG terminal off of the battery all day, same results. AFR jumps around from 15.3-16.1. Still struggling. During the radiator swap, I installed a new ground cable, replacing the older one grounding the NEG terminal to the chassis right behind the battery. Checked it again this morning, its on there tight and secure. I used a wire similiar to http://grote.com/images/goc/large/84-9256.jpg cut it in half and connected it to the battery with a new terminal. Could this ground wire be the culprit? It is slightly bigger than stock. Is the car safe to drive like this? I have been with no abnormal KR, seems to run fine as long as my foots on the pedal.

Also, I have never used an aeroforce to individually check the sensors on the car to see if one is malfunctioning or not. Is there a way to do this, and what would it read if the sensor was bad?

Thanks!
 
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Still cant figure it out, replaced ground wires, plug wires, checked all wiring, Im going to have to give up here. Gonna find a shop with a tech 2 or something to read the sensors and tell me whats wrong.
 
Update. Took it to a shop, they had the car, scanned it and analyzed. Said all sensors are performing as they should be and all injectors are firing like normal but the car is still lean. They called me this morning and basically told me they are stumped and can't figure it out. At least they are honest and not trying to steal money. I had a conversation with the mechanic about tuning a vehicle with and exhaust leak and we came to the conclusion that the previous tuner, who tuned the vehicle with a pretty significant exhaust leak, may be the reason its running the way it is. Now that I have fixed the leak, the pcm must not be used to this. Has anyone seen anything like this? Also, anyone know of any community members in the Atlanta area with HPT, so I can see if this is really the issue?
 
The leak was where the crossover pipe connects to the collector just beside the firewall, just before the upstream 02. The Speed Daddy clamp that was there never actually sealed it and it had been ticking since I installed them long ago. Replaced it with a band clamp.
 


Thinking aloud here. If the leak is there, then exhaust would escape, being under pressure, no air is going in. So the O2 was likely reading a little more of the back than the front, which should be pretty equal anyhow.

If the issue popped up only after you fixed the leak and swapped the radiator... did you pull the EGR stand and tubes off the motor to clean/work on it? Those tubes may cause a large vacuum leak.

How was your AFR before this work?
 
I did not. Before the swap, afr was 14.8 at idle and 11.8 at WOT. The mechanic said he tested the EGR and found no problems. Also smoked the system and found no vaccum leaks.
 
Hold on, your intercooled, right. Your EGR isn't functional at the IC core, it's blocked.

I can't think of anything that might be causing you to go lean though. Unless your battery cables are corroded and you removed them during the radiator.
 
Crazy thing just happened, went to go start the car up and drive around trying to figure it out. As i was backing up into a parking space, i glanced at the AFR and it read 14.8. Put it in drive, same 14.8. Drove around the block, same 11.8 WOT 14.8 idle. Parked the car, went inside, came back out, started it again and there it was, LEAN AGAIN. BUT, i glanced at the coolant temp and it was reading 180 when it wasnt leaning out. Could the new radiator, which is a 1/4 inch thicker, in combination with my 180 tstat be keeping the engine from reaching proper operating temp? Would this lead to a lean condition? Im going to put this to the test tomorrow.
 


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