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Motor Mount - easy to do?

michael redmon

New member
Guys, I know I am killing you guys with questions. Thanks in advance.

Are the motor mounts really that easy to change for a noob like me? I did the LCA's and they were easy. I guess I need a pep talk because I am scared to jacked my car up via the oil pan and a 2x4. I am thinking of paying someone to change them (I usually dont believe in paying anyone to do anything that I can do myself). I have a clunk on the right side and the motor mount is wrecked.

Also trying to buy a scan tool that actually reads ABS codes on a 2002 grand prix. Seems like it is the same as finding pot of gold or unicorn
 


I would do it yourself, if you pay someone to do it they will do it the same way. I've done several motor mounts and transmission mounts, and white it may not be easy, it is certainly not hard
 
Are the motor mounts really that easy to change for a noob like me? I did the LCA's and they were easy. I guess I need a pep talk because I am scared to jacked my car up via the oil pan and a 2x4.
If you did LCA's, then mounts will be easy. As long as your 2x4 spans across the pan, you will be displacing the weight, so not as big a deal as your brain is telling you. I didn't have a long enough 2x4, so used this with no issues....

Lowering_064.JPG




Also trying to buy a scan tool that actually reads ABS codes on a 2002 grand prix. Seems like it is the same as finding pot of gold or unicorn
You will need a hi end scan tool, like Snap-On or OTC. None of the el-cheap-o models read brake codes.
 
Some codes will come right back especially if it's a wire issue.

I did the mounts yesterday, I screwed 2 2x4s together to make a 4x4 and it was easy. I did with an engine hoist last time and it was a pain, block of wood is the way to go. I do recommend jacking the back of the car up too so that the engine lines up easier with the mount when you lower it.
 


Some codes will come right back especially if it's a wire issue.

I did the mounts yesterday, I screwed 2 2x4s together to make a 4x4 and it was easy. I did with an engine hoist last time and it was a pain, block of wood is the way to go. I do recommend jacking the back of the car up too so that the engine lines up easier with the mount when you lower it.

I didn't think about jacking the back of the car up when doing the engine/transmission mounts. I only have one jack, but I do have ramps, so I might use those the next time I do the mounts. I can understand how having the car level would help everything fall back into place where it should.
 
Ya, I was actually taking out the Vinnie spacers and my so called sold motor mount was leaking some fluid. I didn't jack the back up this time but I will be soon when I replace that mount again. Might make my own but I don't want pollie
 
You can get a solid transmission mount from the parts store, not sure about an engine mount. I bought a solid engine mount, but it still had fluid in it. I use the 3m polyurethane window adhesive and some loctite polyurethane caulk to fill it up. It was kind of messy but not hard. If I did it again, I might consider buying two tubes of the 3m stuff because it dries faster as far as I can tell. And is black not brown like the loctite
 
Well I'd like close to stock but not let the engine move, I'm sick of vibrations at idle, I'm getting to old for this crap lol
 
Well I'd like close to stock but not let the engine move, I'm sick of vibrations at idle, I'm getting to old for this crap lol

I don't know how an engine mount would hold the engine and not let it move without transmitting some vibration. maybe a custom mount made from mild steel, but I'm no expert.
 


I've had solid mounts and they don't vibrate like the solid poly mounts from zzp because I've had this too. It's just a pain in the balls finding them from parts stores that are actually solid
 
Changing its not hard, I'd use a 2x6 or 2x8 and span it across both the trans and oil pan, makes it easier to lift the engine straight up off the studs on the mount. When you go to lower it the engine may not traverse the same path and the holes on the motor mount bracket won't line up with the studs. I just reached in and angled the mount a little to align the studs and slowly lowered the motor, didn't need to pry or heave on the engine. You won't dent your pans, just be smart and distribute the weight and jack slowly.
 
I've had solid mounts and they don't vibrate like the solid poly mounts from zzp because I've had this too. It's just a pain in the balls finding them from parts stores that are actually solid


yes the auto stores are usually wrong. if you shake the mount you can hear the fluid. Autozone tried to sell me the hydraulic one saying it was solid but he pulled the wrong part. the part numbers were the same except one has an "s" at the end.

here are some listings for the solid mounts for reference.

engine mount
[TABLE="class: nobmp, width: 1127"]
[TR]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line"]WESTAR EM2796S Info
Front; Solid Mount
Choose: [Regular Inventory] (Only 4 Remaining) ($11.61) [Private Label Package] ($12.48)​



[/TD]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line listing-float-box-cell-shared, align: right"]
[/TD]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line listing-float-box-cell-shared listing-float-box-cell-more-padding, colspan: 3, align: center"]$11.61[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: nobmp, width: 1127"]
[TR]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line"]ANCHOR 2796SR Info
Front; SOLID RUBBER
Choose: [Regular Inventory] ($14.75) [Private Label Package] (Only 1 Remaining) ($23.79)​



[/TD]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line listing-float-box-cell-shared, align: right"]
[/TD]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line listing-float-box-cell-shared listing-float-box-cell-more-padding, colspan: 3, align: center"]$14.75[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

trans mount
[TABLE="class: nobmp, width: 1127"]
[TR]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line"]WESTAR EM2712S Info
Solid Mount
Choose: [Regular Inventory] (Only 6 Remaining) ($12.12) [Private Label Package] ($12.40)​



[/TD]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line listing-float-box-cell-shared, align: right"]
[/TD]
[TD="class: listing-border-top-line listing-float-box-cell-shared listing-float-box-cell-more-padding, colspan: 3, align: center"]$12.12[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
I did the motor and transmission mounts today. It was pretty easy but I sure had to jack the engine up highly high to to get the transmission mount out/in.

To be honest, I have clunking noises in my front end so I went and just started changing parts. LCA's, Motor Mounts, next will be struts maybe. Anyways, I am surprised how well my original motor mount looked. I had a 100K bumper to bumper on this car from when I bought it in 2004. I almost wondered if it got changed at some point under warranty and I dont remember.

Anyways, thanks guys....again. Off to research struts.
 


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