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Most inexpensive rout to rack and pinon replacement?

Jbruce308

Jbruce308

New member
Okay so im leaking power steering fluid out of my rack and pinion pretty bad so i plan on replacing it but i just have a few questions. Should i buy a used one along with the core from LKQ or just get a brand new one at autozone. Also are my tierods a must to be done at the same time as the rack and pinion or can i get to those later which id prefer. I was going to do the labor myself and with a few friends but dropping the sub frame seems like a little more work then i want to do.

If youve had this problem or have any advice on what i should do please let me know. Trying to save money here


Thanks
 


You could go used to buy you some time, but the amount of time you get can vary and you will be replacing it again sooner or later. If the outer tir-rods are shot then yes, replace them. I understand this costs more money up front, but what is cheaper- a pair of tierods or a set of tires?

Personally for the hassle involved I would go reman, but then that defeats the purpose of staying inexpensive. Maybe check Rock Auto or even Ebay and see if you could score one cheap-er.

Also, do you have Magnasteer on your car? I don't know what year your ride is but if you have a small 2-wire electrical connection coming from around the steering shaft area of the rack then you have Magnasteer and will need the correct rack.
 
I did the rack on my gtp a while back. It's not to bad of a job to do. I bought a rack from autozone and it came with the inner tierods so you just have to buy the outers and everything will be new. It's pretty easy to drop the subframe if you have a friend with a jack or own one yourself. It took me about 2-2.5 hours the first time I did it. I bought a used rack and it was bad so definitely don't buy a jy rack.
 
yea some parts are worth buying new some stuff you shouldnt get from a yard like struts, springs, bearings, etc..
 
i got a used one through lkq, 6 month warranty, the first one they sent, had fluid leaking out of the boots, when i got it, so i sent it back and got another one. put it in 8,000 miles ago and its still kicking.

after the rack is installed your going to need an alignment, so do the tie rods when you do the rack, they only cost like 30 bucks or so.

drop the cradle first, it will give you more room to remove the bolts for the sway bar and give you more room to get the rack out.

and before you start, lock the steering wheel with the wheels straight and leave it locked until you are ready to get the intermediate shaft back on the rack. if you spin the wheel round and round the clock spring will break.

i took my old one out, and put the new one side by side, and turned the steering shaft till it matched the old ones position, so to line up better with the intermediate shaft. i also left my lock nuts for the tie rods on the inner tie rods shafts, and matched them up as well, as best i could. my steering wheel was off a bit but not to bad. still had to get it aligned, but it was real close.
 


So should i take it to ZZP or what. Its gona cost me $250 in labor there plus the part with is like another $250 with the core. THen $60 alignment $10 in fluid and new tie rods on top of it alllll ****k. I know like car work to an extent but im not sure if i could pull off doin this whole job with a few friends when we really havent ever worked that far into the cars front end.
 
Your call there. Do you have an 18mm wrench to get the PS lines off the rack? That's about the only odd thing that I can see needing if you do it yourself. Not too many people have an 18mm wrench. Beyond that I think you could get it done w/ a few friends and help from here if need be.
 
i got stuck on the 18 mm line wrench my self, heres a tip, 3/4 wrench with a dime taped inside of it make a nice snug 18mm, lol thats how i got my lines off, by the time i was getting them back on my friend showed up with a 18 mm line wrench, nice guy.
 
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