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Mission for no more clunk

h0wl0ngcanitbe

h0wl0ngcanitbe

Lifer
So just got done reading Drunkies coilover confessional thread, how I wish I could be around a guy that knows 3800s that well!

Lets get right to it, ive had the clunk clunk jiggle jiggle for months, haven't isolated it yet but its time do some suspension work so here goes.

Im sure my rear trailing arms are done so these are on deck
ZZPerformance - ZZP Chromoly Trailing Arms #ZZ-CRMTA

And after reading suspension threads for like two hours im thinking its time for new LCAs my question is it worth it to go for ZZPs higher end stuff?
ZZPerformance - ZZP Control Arms for WBody #ZZ-WBCA
I want make the most of my GP its a daily and I want to keep it for a ling time so I dont mind putting money into but im sure some will say these are not worth it I just want to hear from others who have these what they think.

And then after hymming and hawwing ive decided to go for a strut spring set up, I dont need major low just something lower then stock and after 180k miles im sure im badly in need of a whole new set up these are on deck.
ZZPerformance - Drop in Strut/Spring Combo #ZZ-DRPSTSP
Of coarse AGX

Motor mounts and what not will go in with the strut spring setup but that will have to wait until after the mission is complete. No more clunk.

Thoughts? Hopefully im headed in the right direction.

EDIT:

Do these make a difference?
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/1155-Wheel-Bearing-Premium.aspx
or just stick with stock?
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/385-Wheel-Bearing.aspx
 
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i wouldnt get those lca bad fitment issues rarely fit from what ive heard. also get bmr or umi trailing arms im getting bmr personally they are the thickest i beleive
 
Does this clunk occur only when you accelerate or brake? This has been a long discussion over on ClubGP for some time; Haven't looked in the thread in some time.

I can't really search for it right now. But IIRC the consensus was the Sub Frame Bushings. For $100 and about 30-60 minutes of your time you can have all 4 of them replaced.

Other thing it could be are your motor mounts, suggestion here is to go with the solid rubber motor mounts, easy enough to do. Do a half set of engine spacers from VinnieGTP if you plan on lowering.

The one other weak spot that doesn't really come up often are the LCA's. The front mount on our LCA's are a rubber bushing and can't be replaced by itself, you would have to replace the whole LCA. I suggest the W-body store replacements, regular or performance it is up to you and your budget. This will take of your other bushing and ball joint. The only way to eliminate those front bushing is to go to a solid mount, but there are only 2 options. ZZP tubular's....that break and the 10 sets of Ron Vogels that are next to impossible to find.


You should check your Front Sway bar and make sure that the mounts are still firm and attached to the subframe and that your sway bar hasn't rotted out and broken. Dorman makes a $100 solid sway bar replacement that is perfect. Ebay.

For the Trailing Arm, I suggest the ones off Ebay by BMR or UMI (I can't remember the names specifically) but for the cost its a better option than what ZZP has to offer.

Strut/springs are up to you. Doing your own spring compressing and mounting is fun and probably cheaper. I HATE KYB, their customer service attitudes when I call them is just the icing on the cake. But seeing as its either OEM, Bilstein, or KYB. Its basically all we got, do look into Bilsteins with spring of your choice and if you can afford it...go for it. Bilstein is a better strut period. Remember to replace your top mounts.
 
I have a clunk too. Sorry to thread jack but it only happens when I brake and when I let off the brake. Any ideas? It's like a loud click
 
Drunkie said:
Does this clunk occur only when you accelerate or brake? This has been a long discussion over on ClubGP for some time; Haven't looked in the thread in some time.

I can't really search for it right now. But IIRC the consensus was the Sub Frame Bushings. For $100 and about 30-60 minutes of your time you can have all 4 of them replaced.

Ok Check

Other thing it could be are your motor mounts, suggestion here is to go with the solid rubber motor mounts, easy enough to do. Do a half set of engine spacers from VinnieGTP if you plan on lowering.

Check, but question can I do this prior to the drop?

The one other weak spot that doesn't really come up often are the LCA's. The front mount on our LCA's are a rubber bushing and can't be replaced by itself, you would have to replace the whole LCA. I suggest the W-body store replacements, regular or performance it is up to you and your budget. This will take of your other bushing and ball joint. The only way to eliminate those front bushing is to go to a solid mount, but there are only 2 options. ZZP tubular's....that break and the 10 sets of Ron Vogels that are next to impossible to find.

So is this what you are recomending for the LCAs? And am I hearing that the ZZP upgrade option is not worth the money?
Control Arms (Pair)


You should check your Front Sway bar and make sure that the mounts are still firm and attached to the subframe and that your sway bar hasn't rotted out and broken. Dorman makes a $100 solid sway bar replacement that is perfect. Ebay.

Check

For the Trailing Arm, I suggest the ones off Ebay by BMR or UMI (I can't remember the names specifically) but for the cost its a better option than what ZZP has to offer.

Check

Strut/springs are up to you. Doing your own spring compressing and mounting is fun and probably cheaper. I HATE KYB, their customer service attitudes when I call them is just the icing on the cake. But seeing as its either OEM, Bilstein, or KYB. Its basically all we got, do look into Bilsteins with spring of your choice and if you can afford it...go for it. Bilstein is a better strut period. Remember to replace your top mounts.
Click to expand...

I dont mind spending money on this part so what would you recommend I am only looking for a 1-2" drop but want the best ride possible. I havent looked over the build your own setup thread yet but I could give it a try im pretty handy. But dont mind getting a premade set up either. Im not saying im cool with frivolously spending money but its not a really a problem. Thanks for your help Drunkie, and yes BillBoost is nothing short of a 3800 genius!

EDIT: So half my response resides in the quote check, check, check
 


h0wl0ngcanitbe said:
I dont mind spending money on this part so what would you recommend I am only looking for a 1-2" drop but want the best ride possible. I havent looked over the build your own setup thread yet but I could give it a try im pretty handy. But dont mind getting a premade set up either. Im not saying im cool with frivolously spending money but its not a really a problem. Thanks for your help Drunkie, and yes BillBoost is nothing short of a 3800 genius!

EDIT: So half my response resides in the quote check, check, check
Click to expand...

Yes either do the motor mounts before or during your strut install.

ZZP LCA's for the cost are not worth it IMO, just replace the LCA's and be done with standard replacements.

As far as drop; SSC, B&G, or Sprint would be my suggestions
 
Drunkie said:
Yes either do the motor mounts before or during your strut install.

ZZP LCA's for the cost are not worth it IMO, just replace the LCA's and be done with standard replacements.

As far as drop; SSC, B&G, or Sprint would be my suggestions
Click to expand...

Ok so more and more searching, im seeing now why everyone likes Rockauto. Heres my deal, im a small business owner and I like to support other small businesses but I dont want to be completely hosed. Do trailing Arms really make a difference? I mean the set on ZZP cost $120.00 while a set of Dorman trailing arms costs $12.00 thats a huge disparity in price point.

So im reading that LCAs are better off with a OEM replacement so thats settled. And if you have a good bilstein set up you would recommend or if there is a good thread on a do it yourself im all ears. But the ZZP strut spring comes with new top plates and SSCs so it makes it super easy. But If I can do a Biletein set up for cheaper then $1,175.00 ill give it a shot.
 
The stock trailing arms can be twisted by hand and are just U shaped stamped steel. The aftermarket units are much sturdier and have grease fittings too. I got the HT Motorspots ones, cheaper than BMR and just as good. The LCA'S are best to just swap with stock replacement as ZZP offers nothing more other then cost. Some say strut tower braces do nothing, but I installed front and rears with Don Rome brackets and in replacing and upgrading all, I think TOGETHER they made a big difference in handling.

Just my $.02
 
why do people bash the ZZP LCA's Im looking in everybodies sigs and none of you even have ZZP LCA's but yet you talk like you have them. Ive had them on for about 4 months now. I couldnt be happier with them. I had the Ron Vogels on my GTP which were great as well but good look finding those. and the old ZZP LCA's were the ones with issues the revised ones are strong as **** and can take the beating you put on them.
 


you never saw a pic of one with broken welds then........zzp lca's have failed in the past, that may be why, and the cost is crazy for a inferior product.


dorman 42 a side, cant beat it, or moogs for like 60 a side iirc. moogs are grease able too.
 
I have and ZZP hooked me up with the newer revised set which as stated above are greatly and i mean greatly approved. Why they wont update the pic on their site is beyond me
2012-10-08_22-53-02_242.jpg
 
yea i had no issues with their customer service i sent pics of the crack and they sent me a RMA i shipped them and got them back very quickly. the news ones by far exceeded my expectations. And i also would like to note that through all of the things ive purchased from ZZP ive never had issues with customer service or feedback from them...EVER .
 
i think some people just get lucky with zzp customer service and some don't. when i first started modding i never had a problem with their service; i got ahold of them on the phone, quick email responses and quick shipping. and i am in no way bashing zzp, i do still purchase form them, but lately, i can't talk to them on the phone to save my life and will sometimes have to send them a second email almost like my first one was looked over. yet i do have some friends that say that they never have a problem getting ahold of them. luck of the draw i guess.

EDIT: We should all probably stop thread jacking though. lol
 


91parkave said:
why do people bash the ZZP LCA's Im looking in everybodies sigs and none of you even have ZZP LCA's but yet you talk like you have them. Ive had them on for about 4 months now. I couldnt be happier with them. I had the Ron Vogels on my GTP which were great as well but good look finding those. and the old ZZP LCA's were the ones with issues the revised ones are strong as **** and can take the beating you put on them.
Click to expand...

For a car that will never be a handling vehicle $500 is not neccessary to blow on LCA's. Couple that with ZZP's strategy of release first, test later, tends to piss people off and you have the reason why we all say avoid them.

I almost bought a set but then got the Ron Vogels.
 
91parkave said:
I have and ZZP hooked me up with the newer revised set which as stated above are greatly and i mean greatly approved. Why they wont update the pic on their site is beyond me
2012-10-08_22-53-02_242.jpg
Click to expand...
Hey Parkave thanks for the input I really wanted to hear from someone who had a set in place. Those things look crazy bad ass, your right though why they dont update the pic is beyond me?
 
h0wl0ngcanitbe said:
Hey Parkave thanks for the input I really wanted to hear from someone who had a set in place. Those things look crazy bad ass, your right though why they dont update the pic is beyond me?
Click to expand...
And if you wanted to know specifics from somebody who had both sets. which now they sell the newer ones anyway...they have grease points on the horizontal bushing now and moog ball joint. all heim joints are now included with rubber dirt/dust covers as well too. Tubing is thicker all around too. really nice pieces. and contrary to above statments you got to pay to play. everybody whines about the price for them but i dont see anybody else making sets for the community Ron vogel did but they were very very limited. These LCA's are a great quality piece.

I highly disagree with drunkies statement as well, because ZZP can only really test in a controlled enviorment. They cant be held responsible for bent tabs on subframes where the LCA connects to, Garbage alignments, incorrect installation, attention to detail from the owner or other variables. At least they stand behind there product enough to offer free replacments and improved the design unlike lets GM, Intense-racings DIFF's so on and so on.
 
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