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Misfire and possible chipped piston?

jlgp2007nc said:
I think this guy has been scolded enough guys. I'm sure he offended the group, but don't you think this is enough? I'm sure the point is well worn in and it's all up to him now. I feel you guys will agree as I agree with all of you.
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its more then aggravating when you try to help someone and they just talk for 2 days. the answers are here for the taking. and free. and theres idk? how many threads like this one?

maybe if he paid us he'd believe what we say????
 


Thanks for quoting all of his quotes Dan and yes please link us to where we said you can run a 3.4 with hardly any mods.


Yea we must have to charge him for him to believe what several of us are saying.
 
I can drop the idler pulley size on my N/A, loosen up that belt tension and free up tons of power. Then put in platinum quad prong plugs and wwwwwhhoooooaaaaaaa race car! :D
 
wooooooooooooooooooow

What
happened
here?

Well update I bought gasket and head bolts today. The rear side of the engine would be the right side correct? assuming i ordered the correct one.
 
Depends on which way your looking at the car. If your staring at your engine from the front of your vehicle, wouldn't the rear be the left side? I suppose I am not completely sure.
 
I think when discerning lest from right, imagine if the car was RWD (lol) and the passenger side would be the right side.
 


Hey guys, guess what..........................................................................................



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scottydoggs said:
good one. i see rings...........................................................
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Whats awful is that the best its ever ran/pulled was after this happened. My friends dad said that engines always run the best right before they blow up.

I am rebuilding the entire thing

Diamond Forged Pistons with L32 rods all new bearings and whatever else is needed.
The pistons/rods are used with 14k on them I believe
 
put a 3.4 on thursday. it ran good from stop at wot but it would kind of bog at wot at speed. a vacuum came loose and my fix was ok tursday but started leaking friday again. it had stock grade delco plugs so i pulled them and put auto lite 104s and new plug wires friday night and fixed my vacuum better (at the t under the s/c). drove it today and its great.

the reason i'm posting is b/c someone mentioned a ticking noise. i have one too but i'm pretty sure its been that way for awhile. its hard to remember sometimes:th_winking: and then the last two posts where it goes boom after running so well:th_nervous: because i couldnt be happier with it.

all the plugs looked normal when i pulled them.

it seems like the auto lites are what made the difference. the old plugs werent really in bad shape, just stock. one was not matching, though.

so my other mods when the swap was done....zzp dp with cat, cone intake, zzp 1.0 pcm, 180 tstat. i had a hunch it should have different plugs but i've read it a couple different ways. i only drove it a day and half and not too hard except to test it out a couple times. after the plugs is all good. my vacuum still kinda sucks so i would like to clean it up more. and i pulled the 180 and put the stock back in today. it always ran at 195 anyway. and it was leaking....

i hope no boom for me. i dont know why i'm posting, really. hoping someone will say it will be ok, i guess.

i know, get headers....i've herad it the other way, too. hoping the people chime in who are not running headers with same mods. --no cel, by the way. i've had misfire on other car before--cel comes on.
 
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yeah, now that you mention it all three of my gtp's had that same noise more than once that i can remember. the van does it too sometimes.
 
acidcrashdburnd said:
Whats awful is that the best its ever ran/pulled was after this happened. My friends dad said that engines always run the best right before they blow up.

I am rebuilding the entire thing

Diamond Forged Pistons with L32 rods all new bearings and whatever else is needed.
The pistons/rods are used with 14k on them I believe
Click to expand...

Well at least your hood didn't fly up in that last pull. :)
 
acidcrashdburnd said:
Whats awful is that the best its ever ran/pulled was after this happened. My friends dad said that engines always run the best right before they blow up.

I am rebuilding the entire thing

Diamond Forged Pistons with L32 rods all new bearings and whatever else is needed.
The pistons/rods are used with 14k on them I believe
Click to expand...

I like L67 rods better personally.
 


Too bad about the chipped piston. It does give you an excuse to put some goodies in though. When mine popped it sounded like I broke a rod for a good 3 or 4 minutes. The whole engine was shaking and knocking. I babied it home and by the time I got home it just had a little putter to it and all the knocking and clattering was gone. Almost sounded normal. Started digging and found a smashed plug though so I just yanked the motor and trans and went through them both.
 
In the mean time you can throw the motor back together and it'll run fine for quite a while till you get a new motor. It's not an immediate death sentence for the motor.
 
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