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Metal to metal grinding sound

Update guys. It turned out to be the wear sensor on the inside pad. It was BARELY starting to rub against it as the smooth part of the sensor was very minimal and barely noticeable. So that took care of the noise. Now on to the huge headache and the big PITA...it looks like my ebrake cables have gone to rust hell and back. I had a hard time disconnecting the cable from the driver side caliper but finally got it after like a damn hour or so. It was so hard to squeeze that damn spring clip thing together to release the cable. I had to have my friend help me by him pushing that together while I tried to free the cable. The even bigger PITA was the passenger side caliper because somehow, that spring clip thing was already compressed together and would not release and would not allow me to release the cable from the caliper. So I ended up having to disconnect it from the middle of the car where it ties in with the cable from the pedal of the car. Not sure if that makes sense or not. I really just wanted to cut the damn cable and throw the damn thing out in the street as hard as I could. I was planning on spending an hour or 1.5 hours on that job and ended up spending almost 5 on it. I was so damn frustrated and it was hot and I was under no kind of shade. So yea. But basically I ended up disengaging the ebrake system so that the calipers could clear the new pads. Turned out my passenger side caliper ebrake was not releasing all the way and put some drag on the brake for who knows how long. Pads were unevenly worn. Also, what brand brake hardware have yall used? I noticed that when I put the new pads on the driver side, the rotor would not move all that freely with the hardware with the caliper on. If I removed the caliper, the rotor would move freely. Would that be a caliper issue or hardware? I just left it like that cuz I was already frustrated and I just wanted to be done with it already.
 


I replaced the rear 2 sections. One side was corroded solid. Its not that bad. Hardest part was getting the adjuster loose. One side will have the threaded rod, but that adjuster bracket is not included with the rear cables. I just cut the rear cables off so I could work on it outbfrom under the car. Used a torch on the bracket and slowly got it off.

Follow the procedure for adjusting them so they don't drag and set when they are supposed to. Basically spin each tire by hand and adjust until they just start to drag, then back off a couple turns.
 
Any idea on how to reset the ebrake spring on the caliper so I can get that cable loose? I need to return the core to autozone.
 
Reset? Its tough to get off. Think I used a large flat screwdriver and pushed hard on the caliper lever while pulling the cable off. Loosen the adjuster first.
 
bandook said:
Reset? Its tough to get off. Think I used a large flat screwdriver and pushed hard on the caliper lever while pulling the cable off. Loosen the adjuster first.
Click to expand...

I already have the caliper off the car. It has the cable still hooked up to it. The spring that you push down to compress it to release the cable will not decompress for some reason.
 


maybe easier to deal with if you put the caliper back on the car, loosely bolted on so its held in place while you work on that spring.
 
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