• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Major problem please help

L

Logan541

New member
1997 Grand Prix GT N/A running great then went to start it this morning turned the key and it started to make the initial crank sound like it was going to start then but abrubtly stopped before it could. Went to try again, nothing car is dead it's like someone threw a switch and just shut it off in mid start. Now it won't let me turn the key all the way back so I can remove it, and I can't shift it it into neutral. The emergency shift lock button became disconnected about two years ago so I can't use it without taking the console apart and I did not have time this morning. But still what the hell? I turned the key a few times and nothing not a sound also opening the door now I notice the interior lights do not come on. Could this me a crank or cam position sensor issue. Help guys I need this thing back on the road asap for work (GOT a new boss starting Monday and I hear she is out to dismantle the department). Thanks, I am the original owner car has been well maintained and has 301,000 miles on it. About December I changed the ICM because it had some revving and stalling issues (I said Crank sensor shop said ICM) It would be running fine the engine would start sputtering like a vacuum problem or misfire and car would die if I let it sit long enough it would restart and run ok for awhile. So shop changed ICM and car ran good for about a month then this.

Thanks again

Logan
 


Thanks but its not starting nor lights working and so I don't think so and I had a new switch put in by GM in 2004
 
I've found that in my 1999 GP GTP, any situation where the battery isn't powering the car (like the ignition) the key will refuse to come out of the ignition. I'd start by checking sure your battery has good charge and that your battery and ground connections are good. Hope you found my 2¢ somewhat helpful.
 
O something else to add when I say key will not come out I mean it will not let me turn ti back to the off position
 


GTP131 is right... sounds like a power problem. I made the mistake of disconnecting my battery with my key in the switch (dunno why my dumbbutt did that but....) and I could not get my keys out. I had to hook up my battery, turn the key to the aux position, shift gears, put it back in park, then it let me turn the key back to the off position and remove it. If you have a good charge and your battery didn't die on you and all your grounds are ok then I'd check for a main fuse or fuseable link? I don't know if there are fuseable links in these cars for that or not. But bad switch I'd still think your lights would come on if your battery was good.
 
I'll throw it on the charger when I get home I have my doubts though I meant I had dead batteries and had to be jumped but I was able to get the keys out and lock while I walked home, I'll keep you posted
 
I had this exact same problem. Went to start it and it went "beep!" then no cranking or clicking. No interior lights, no power anywhere whatsoever. To quickly fix the problem, I wiggled the battery terminals without disconnecting. Found out that there was a bit of corrosion there when I got it in the light at home. I also just cleaned the contacts on my ignition switch (fun project,ha) and have not had an issue since. Hope that helps.

One other avenue to check is if you have an aftermarket alarm installed, it could be shorting/arcing. (maybe) (I'm not an electrician or a mechanic so feel free to lambast...)
 
Disconnect both terminals on the battery and clean them. Side post batteries are notorious for poor connections. You may not be able to "wiggle" the connection, and think its tight, but if the corrosion is in there, it will cause a high resistance.

Just pull the terminals, clean up with some emery cloth, or a toothbrush and baking soda/water mix, rinse, pat dry, and re-connect.


Jay
 
Definatley would be a power problem.

On that ignition switch suggestion.. you nearly made me fall out of the chair. You dismissed the idea because you had it replaced 8 years ago, car has 300K on it which means you drive a good amount. However..if the first switch lasted 7 years..and it's been 8 years since the new one.. WTF man, don't dismiss a part being bad because you replaced it once. .....8 years ahahahahahahah ago.
 


Hey guys thanks for all the great feed back it was pouring rain last night so I could not put it on the charger, tried to jump it with a friends car real quick and nothing but it would kill the interior lights and they would come back on real dim until I detached and reattached the jumper cable then bright as day. But turning the key to accessory or start would kill them again. So some time Thursday when I am off I will clean the terminals and recharge the battery and give it a try. I took part of the column apart and hit a little button under there and that allowed me to release the key. Bill glad I could amuse you lol best part is when I read your answer I was like "DUH," In my mind when I wrote that I was thinking was not that long ago. When you mentioned it has been 8 yeahs, I started cracking up thinking um I would have said the same thing. Guess time went by a tad quicker then I thought LOL
 
OK DUH, Bill grip your chair hard and ok guys the rest of you can laugh. Went to take terminals off to fix the corrosion I accidentally turned it to tighten instead of loosen it turned 1/4 turn I thought "hmmm" got in tried it. It started so I tightened both connections good. Put the charger on the battery for the hell of it and we are good. I feel sorta dumb, but dang the connections felt tight. Thanks guys
 
Last edited:
I didn't fall out.. been there and seen that before. There's a fine line between tightening the terminals enough, stripping them out or having them back out down the road.

Probably still a good idea to check that they are clean, especially since the connection was bad for a while.
 
BillBoost37 said:
I didn't fall out.. been there and seen that before. There's a fine line between tightening the terminals enough, stripping them out or having them back out down the road.

Probably still a good idea to check that they are clean, especially since the connection was bad for a while.
Click to expand...

I am planning on doing that this weekend when I swap my windshield washer bottle for the type that goes through the fender well and thanks for not beating me up on that lol
 
You act like I haven't done it.

If I swap a motor, get in have power then don't get a click when hitting start... I get out and hook up the negative cables to the trans.
 


Hello, I have had the same sudden stop during start problem. I will check the battery terminals per the above suggestions. But i do have one other issue that I;m not sure is related. The ignition switch is very warm to the touch, it will warm a cool key in a matter of seconds. Sounds like a bad switch or could a weak battery be causing a incomplete connection/partially open switch? I have disconnected the neg side of the battery until I figure this out.
 
Sarsho said:
Hello, I have had the same sudden stop during start problem. I will check the battery terminals per the above suggestions. But i do have one other issue that I;m not sure is related. The ignition switch is very warm to the touch, it will warm a cool key in a matter of seconds. Sounds like a bad switch or could a weak battery be causing a incomplete connection/partially open switch? I have disconnected the neg side of the battery until I figure this out.
Click to expand...



the key only slides into a tumbler, not a switch, the switch is next to it though. i would pop off the lower plastic from the bottom of the column and see if the black box is getting hot, thats your ignition switch.

if thats your problem its a easy fix.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top