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Lurking Regal owner

Type "e a s y" without the spaces (the more times I type it the more it comes up in searches..lol and my username.

Blocks or a 2x4 across the top with a strap down tot he diff cover.
 


BillBoost37 said:
Type "e a s y" without the spaces (the more times I type it the more it comes up in searches..lol and my username.

Blocks or a 2x4 across the top with a strap down tot he diff cover.
Click to expand...

Good call. I'll pull out my engine bar.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
BillBoost37 said:
Rear knock sensor wire...it's a pain. You want to hop on getting a good one now.
PS pump wouldn't come off the block? It's two 13mm bolts, through the pulley. 12 and 6 for positioning. At least it's not a pain to bleed.
Click to expand...

Define "good one". I was planning on using a 16ga wire and splicing in as long of a piece as i can replace.

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Usually one end of the wire pulls out of the connector. And there's no other connectors on the car like it. So this normally 12-18 inch pigtail is sometimes tough to get.

If you can fix yours..do it.
 
Maybe I'll use it as an excuse to buy the special crimper. There is this little dinky electronics store in my area that has every type of connector imagineable. I'm pretty confident i can actually replace the actual pin in the connector.

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Since I unhooked my PS pump. I may just replace my PS lines. I know my return line has gotten ganked a little bit over the years with all the things I've done around them. Wondering if the Impala(w AL frame) return line is a little different than my stocker.
 
I think it is.. I'm sitting on an AL frame and my one line (never paid attention to which one) is sitting on the frame's shelf. Theoretically it's rubbing and going to cause trouble. However I've looked it over and it's in great shape. When the steerign fails..I'll address it.
 


this may be one of the longest male intro threads in GPF history lol

the girls get all the leg humpers and the pages roll fast lol
 
Check out the incredible hoop dy thread going on by hitman, or the bracket thread he created. The aluminum bracket seems to break pretty easily on the L67's. Might even be an alignment issue. A few have come up with some steel ideas.

Personally..the whole dogbone system is retarded. Take a look at a 92-99 Bonneville and you'll see what the bracket should look like on the front of the transmission etc. Solid to the subframe, this is how my Bonne was and I didn't have the movement issues.
 
Hmm,
Well, I think I'll just stick with the stock bracket then. I'll just have to space it a little bit. Yeah, don't love the dogbone system in general. I've seen some threads with various contraptions that seem complicated to replicate. The AL bracket seems to be a fairly simple remedy, but I don't want to deal with them breaking.

I picked up some body clips and bolts yesterday. Went to put them in place and the lower rad support flange is not level across the bottom. I'm going to have to notch it a little bit on the drivers side(either that or gap the passenger side body clip). It looks like the hood latch mechanism and support bracket are a little different on the GTP. I bought a 1/4 steel bar that I need to figure out how/where I'm going to attach. I'm almost considering running two vertical bars mounted to the rad support(top and bottom). I'll play around a little bit tonight when I get home.

In other news.....this arrived today.
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Finally got around to installing my FMHE. Many of you have installed this, but I was having trouble finding pics of exactly how you dealt with the hood latch support so I decided to show y'all how I did it. This method is extremely secure and there is no movement towards the condenser or towards the bumper support. Also surprisingly, there was no interference with the bumper support and I haven't totally decided, but I don't think I'm going to cut the bumper support at all. This is on a Regal and the GTP does not have the same setup for the hood latch bracket so some of this information will not be useful for you.

1st I took a couple of body clips and mounted the FMHE to the lower rad support crosspiece. I purposely mounted the FMHE off-center towards the passenger side. I did this to allow some extra room for the hoses and connectors. I used a jack for the support to hold the FMHE in place. I had to notch the lower rad support on one side because the flange did not run straight across. I purchased a 36"piece of perforated angle bracket from HD. I notched the side supports on the car and put it in place.
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I secured the crossbrace with self-tapping metal screws. Make sure to get ones that are short and be careful where you put them because you can put them into the condenser if you are not careful.
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I removed the latch bracket and used an angle grinder to cut a shape that I could use to fashion it to the cross-member as well.
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I also had to cut the upper bumper support as well. Here is a pic of all the connections after I put it together. Let me tell you something, nothing is moving there. because of the angles and how I fastened everything together, that is all VERY structurally sound.
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You can tell that it's slightly not level. If you put a level on it, it's much closer than it looks in this picture though. Certainly not anything that will be noticeable once the bumper is back on and it will not affect performance at all.
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And to my surprise, the bumper support fits in place with plenty of clearance. Close to 1" at the narrowest gaps.
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The bumper support has some loom clips to hold the wire in place, but I think when I put everything back together I'm going to use some zip ties to tuck that wire under the overhang of the angle bracket.

 
Did some interior removal today. I found a few coins and french fry that needs to be carbon dated among other things. I also found a $50 uncashed check, so thumbs up on that.
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Removed the old speakers and dropped in my Kappas.
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Sound deadening the whole thing. Plus I've got some wiring things I'm going to do. Also may try to clean the carpet real well outside the car.
 
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