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Luke's Blue Turbo Prix

ItHurtz said:
Timing cover crank seal probably. Timing cover gasket shouldnt be a problem. If you do replace that make sures its zzp gasket for the double roller. Removing turbo thats funny, I almost hit send on a bomb to your house. Good thing I kept reading!
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LOL. Yeah.... going back to N/A actually. To help save the whales. You know... Good tip on that gasket man! I sure did order the regular FelPro one. Oh well. Bought the thick one from ZZP just now.

Scottydoggs said:
pull the balancer and check the seal. they are like 12 bucks and a lot easier to swap out then taking the cover off. oil will pour out once hot when the seal is bad. no oil should be coming out the balancer bolt hole, its sealed.
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Got the seal with the FelPro kit. Looking to change the seal and front gasket. And I know you can get a sleeve for the balancer if it has that groove. You mentioned that sleeve on a different thread about this very repair. Where did you get that sleeve from?
 


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CHI2000GTP said:
Got the seal with the FelPro kit. Looking to change the seal and front gasket. And I know you can get a sleeve for the balancer if it has that groove. You mentioned that sleeve on a different thread about this very repair. Where did you get that sleeve from?
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i got the sleeve at the local parts store. a car quest, pretty much advanced auto.. but they used to be a napa and have books with part# and sh it like they all should. how they dug it up. im sure pep boys would have been a no go. cause they pretty much suck.

ive got a pic of the box with its part# here somewhere if its gone in the other thread i talked about it in.
 
Scottydoggs said:
oh, and they had to order it. was not in stock. cant see it be a hot selling part lol
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Ok. Got it. Here's that thread. Link: GM front crankshaft seal install
In my case, I had to use JB Weld to remove the balancer so I need to get a new one anyway. Sucks. They ain't cheap :|

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Here's some pics of how the bad the oil leak was. It was dripping all the way down the subframe. The motor mount bracket hole was a pool of oil. I pulled the balancer, took me like 3 days. Yes, 3. Problem being that 1 of the bolts kept popping out threaded holes in the balancer. Threads were Fuk'd! Ended up putting globs of JB weld on that bolt and going full ape of torqueing the bolt into the busted threads. I let the JB weld cure... And finally got it off. It was awful. I was starting to panick that it wouldn’t come off…. Anyway, deep groove on that balancer shaft.
Also included a pic of the correct way to install subframe links. To add to my woes, I somehow lost the lower trim from the passenger door. Arghhh
And the gasket that ZZP sent me is a little janky I think....


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Made a dumb mistake. Broke a bolt off, in the block :| Started bolting down the front cover, but didn't remember about the crank sensor and the 1/2" of distance the bolts would need in order to hold it on. Well, wasn't thinking really, bolt wasn't getting close to the timing cover (cuz crank sensor was missing) and I kept tightening, and snap. Didn't take much force either. Very disappointing. Pics below. My plan is to just forget about that bolt. Have about 3/4" of threaded bolt welded to the front cover itself, to at least hold the sensor in place. And hope the other timing cover bolts hold the cover in place well enough to have no leaks. RTV the shyt out of it too. Sucks though.


Now that I have the front cover off again, I decided to mill down the oil pump cover since it's for sure being nicked by the chain. Which explains the metallic "TINK-TINK-TINK" sound that I've been hearing. You can see the circular scratch in the pic. It's a ZZP cover, supposedly milled down .020 already, but you know how ZZP quality goes. It will be milled down another .015. But anyway, when trying to take the cover off, one of the bolts holding it in rounded on me. Dammmn it. Tried J/B welding the torx socket directly to the bolt, and tried it 24hrs later. Snapped right off. WTF.


This timing cover has been a nightmare. First the harmonic balance would not come off, then the bolt I snapped, and now the oil cover bolt that rounded. Jeeze.




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Holy Crap! I have only had one "bad" bolt break, and it was in the exhaust. took forever to get that damn thing out. I would be about ready to burst a vessel if I were in your shoes. Good luck, man!
 
You can get both those bolts out is you are careful. Not like a ham fisted gorilla.

In the block: Grind 2 small flats on the stub and grab it with vise grips. That probably won't work but it's a good first option. If that doesn't work, Grind what's left of the stub dead flat. Center punch it. Start with a small (1/8") drill right down the center. Progressively work up to a larger drill until you release the tension. You can go up to and maybe a little past the tap drill diameter and be fine. Even is you chowder the threads, it's better than no threads.

In the cover, Drill the center of the head out. Just slightly larger than the major diameter of the fastener. (8mm?) Once you release the tension of the fastener, it will thread out with your fingers.
 
BrandonHall10 said:
You can get both those bolts out is you are careful. Not like a ham fisted gorilla.

In the block: Grind 2 small flats on the stub and grab it with vise grips. That probably won't work but it's a good first option. If that doesn't work, Grind what's left of the stub dead flat. Center punch it. Start with a small (1/8") drill right down the center. Progressively work up to a larger drill until you release the tension. You can go up to and maybe a little past the tap drill diameter and be fine. Even is you chowder the threads, it's better than no threads.

In the cover, Drill the center of the head out. Just slightly larger than the major diameter of the fastener. (8mm?) Once you release the tension of the fastener, it will thread out with your fingers.
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Thanks Brandon! I tried the vice grips. There's enough there to grab with grips but that bolt would not budge not matter how I grabbed it man. I tried drilling it too, that worked, and then the drill bit snapped off in the hole! Yep....****yyy. I just can't catch a break man. Was thinking to drill a hole big enough for a self-etching screw and call it a day. But I couldn't even get that far. I'm fairly confident that the other bolts will hold the timing cover in place just fine. I really really hope.

For the pump cover bolt, I'm going to have the welder/mechanic just deal with it and get it out for me. I would usually just do it myself, but experiencing some 3800 fatigue at this point with all these problems. Even if somewhat self-inflicted. Car has been off the road for 1 month now :\
 
LMAO. How the hell you strip a 10ftlb screw that spends its entire life in oil? Good thing I built this ***** tuff, she is kicking your ass LOL. That balancer was impacted the fck on.
 


It was so stupid how it happened. SMH. If I had just stopped to think for one second...

I checked that bolt hole on the stripped block I have in the garage, and it looks like the threads for the hole are inside of solid cast iron with no openings. So luckily I didn’t damage any internals.
 
Got everything back. Got the threaded stud welded in, to hold the crank sensor. Has a little bit of a cavity on the back side to allow room for the broken off piece.
Oil pump cover was removed and milled another .015 , for a total of .035


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Dang buddy rough go. My car has been sitting to. I just haven't had the fortitude to deal with it. So I feel you on the 3.8 fatigue

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Everything is back together now. I sprayed with cut gasket from ZZP with sealant, sandwiched it between 2 FelPro's. Got the new seal installed and pump was primed. I was worried about debris and crap have gotten into the oil/oil pan. Even though id di seal it off with tape. But out of caution, I drained the oil after the repair was finished. Poured in fresh oil, ran that for 100 miles, and not changed oil again, filter too.


But this bytch just don't quit!! Just threw a code: PO34; Cam shaft sensor. Okkkk. I'll take that over a misfire any day. Ordered a new sensor and waiting...




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Update. Car is bone dry around that balancer. Gasket and Crank Seal and RTV holding strong. Despite that missing/broken bolt. So that’s good news. Bad news is car runs like Shyt cuz of that cam sensor issue. I must be getting 5 miles to the gallon. Exhaust is so rich! Jesus Christ. You could run a small engine just off the fumes. She’s running rough. Not driving her anymore till I get this squared away. Getting a good look at that PCM is tough. That harness doesn’t have much play. But I suspect it’s not the PCM. I suspect I knocked the magnet out of place. Or something magnet related.
Got the rotors cut the other day. Car was vibrating bad at high speeds. Much better now.

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yeah your in batch fire bro, you may also find it not starting every now and then when it guesses TDC no 1 from the CKP sensor.

the cam sensor issue ive seen with too thick of gaskets. one reason i just gently grind the pins at the peen, machine the cam and crank gear and use the silicone steel coated felpro and one oem t cover gasket stacked. i also adjust the magnet tangs for minimal slop in the crappy sized cam gear hole in the jp/rollmaster.

take a cam sensor and grind or machine the mounting ear for the sensor pad to sit farther into the cam sensor hole if you dont want to have to pull it apart
 
when you machine the back of the cam gear .028-.032 (cam motion and comp cams are at opposing ends of that range, cam endplay was pretty similar to oem)
you no longer have to machine the pump cover.....
 
Good tip man. Thanks. Getting that sensor ear machined ASAP. The gasket being too thick definitely crossed my mind. Especially that extra special gasket samwich I put together. I tightened the bolts an extra 2ft pounds to try and get the cover closer. If you look at the last pic in my prior post with the red gasket, you can kinda see the magnet and its crooked looking. It’s not flush. I don’t remember fixing that. Gonna try the machined ear first. Really, really don’t wanna pull it apart again.
 
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