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Lower Control Arms

SyntheticShield

SyntheticShield

New member
With my car up on stands, I can easily yank out the LCA's. Well, I say it should be easy, I havent started on it yet.

But anyway, what options are out there for upgrading that part? Is W-Body still making their beefed up/improved LCA's. How about bushings, any options there?

I dont have a welder, though I know how to weld on steel and aluminum, but I aint about to buy a welder just to install stiffening arms or something like that. Im just looking for plug and play or near plug and play options that would give a little better suspension and control from that component.
 


Not sure if this is what you might want to hear, but I had mine fully seam welded, and then powder coated, then I installed all new bushings.

leftfrnt.jpg


Not sure if it was a noticeable difference, but it surly couldn't hurt them ya know. I figure with them being of hollow construction, and only tack welded in cretin areas, it leaves the door open to flex, and possible cracking or bending. Not that anyone has really had that problem to begin with. All I know is they are strong for what they are, but there is an awful lot of room for improvement.

If I was really serious about this, then I would construct a tubular set from 4130 CRMO steel, that would use the same bushings, and lower after market ball joint. I believe a few have actually done this, but the end result was a price nobody would want to pay to have them mas produced.

~F~
 
You know, thats not a half bad idea having them fully seam welded. I dont know of any good powder coaters around here, so it maybe good ole paint for me.
 
WBS doesn't make there modded arms anymore, its too bad, I want a set! However rumor has is there working on making a tubular chromoly set, so i've heard. I doubt it'll happen any time soon though, I want a set now so i can install some Thrasher Torque Arms...
 
Ron is working on it for his own car so I can just assume it's a matter of time before WBS starts to sell them.
 
Did they ever Sell the modded ones? I emailed every few months for as long as I saw them on the site an they were always another month or two out. Now your saying they aren't even doing them.

That sucks, the only things Ive wanted from WBS has been those control arms an the SC No Slip Pulley thing an both have been like a year long wait.
 


I believe Sinister drag designs is in the process of making some tubular ones...

dont quote me on it..but I do believe they are.
 
Shawn, Thrasher Torque Arms?

Well I have been waiting on the tubular arms, Ive been waiting on W body to ramp back up production on the ones they were selling and neither have transpired. I dont mind taking my time on things, but no one seems to be confirming what they are working on and none are giving any type of status on where they are at and a time frame they are expecting a product to market. So as much as I would LOVE to have tubular arms, I am not holding my breath.

So for now, Im more after what if anything that can be done to the stock arms. Can I stiffen them up, can I improve them, better bushings, etc.
 
as far as the modified stock LCA's that W-body store was doing, if i recall correctly, ron was having a hard time getting GOOD cores that did not need 2x as much work to fix the cores so they would be useable for the modified bushing setup, that's why he was working on the tubulars...
 
I have a set of the WBS Race-Ready arms on my car. I only have 1 lap around the block on them so I can't say yet if they were worth it.
 
The bushing upgrade on the modified stock ones was a good idea, though not feasible for the $$$ they were wanting for them. Yes you were paying for quality, but I guess coming from somebody who knows what parts cost, and what it takes to do...they were a little on the cha-ching side for my tastes.

To keep the costs down I was even tempted to send in my set, and have him modify them, and send them back...but that was not even worth it to me.

I figure a POLY bushing upgrade would be a wise choice to go with. but somebody shot that idea down cause it was too easy of a fix. If we can have upper POLY motor mounts made affordable and actually work and serve a purpose...why not make replacements for the LCA? :th_scratchhead:

~F~
 


GR8racingfool said:
The bushing upgrade on the modified stock ones was a good idea, though not feasible for the $$$ they were wanting for them. Yes you were paying for quality, but I guess coming from somebody who knows what parts cost, and what it takes to do...they were a little on the cha-ching side for my tastes.

To keep the costs down I was even tempted to send in my set, and have him modify them, and send them back...but that was not even worth it to me.

I figure a POLY bushing upgrade would be a wise choice to go with. but somebody shot that idea down cause it was too easy of a fix. If we can have upper POLY motor mounts made affordable and actually work and serve a purpose...why not make replacements for the LCA? :th_scratchhead:

~F~
Click to expand...

So did you just replace your bushings with stock ones?
 
Yup...thats all that was out there when I did mine up. back before anybody thought about full welding them up to prevent flex.

But...the ones that came out, were pretty shot, so replacing them, made things nice and stiff right away.

~F~
 
How hard is it to get those bushings out. And if the seam welding prevents flex (not questioning that it does) is there anything I can look for in my LCA's that would tell me if it had or is flexing?
 
SyntheticShield said:
How hard is it to get those bushings out. And if the seam welding prevents flex (not questioning that it does) is there anything I can look for in my LCA's that would tell me if it had or is flexing?
Click to expand...

Are they hard to get out?

Nothing that a 12 ton arbor press cannot handle. About the same amount of force or pressure needed for these as if you were pressing out the upper motor mount for example.

As for the replacement bushings, many GM dealerships say its a non-serviceable part, and the whole unit must be replaced, but if you did a little deeper, you can get the individual parts to construct one. My dad has a master catalog showing every single part and its number is how I found mine. Did the same for the sub frame/engine cradle.

Not sure if the welding does prevent it, but it surly couldn't hurt for the way I drive ya know. As for knowing or seeing signs of flex, not sure what to look for honestly. I would say creased paint, obvious bends...but that wont get you far, since these are normally painted pretty crappy and not 100% true from the factory since they are stamped/pressed to shape, and then tack welded together...every so many inches.

All I did was finish up the welding they didn't do, or want to do, and then gave them a nice powder coated finish so for one, easy to clean, and 2 easy to spot cracks, or wear and tear if that does happen.

~F~
 


Thanks farnsworth. And very good point archemedes. Farns, can I ask you for the part numbers to the bushings for the LCA's and for the cradle. On the cradle and LCA's I want to replace any and all facets of the bushings, washers or anything of the like that I can replace while Im there. I cant see dropping the cradle and and not servicing the thing completely. Might as well do it all while Im in there.
 
GM Part numbers for the sub-Frame rubber bushings/inserts:

spacer, front body bolt (good for both right and left) = 10249634
spacer rear body bolt (good for both right and left) = 10249631

cushion, front body bolt (good for both right and left) = 10249632
cushion rear body bolt (good for both right and left) = 10249638

If you want to replace the bolts for the sub-frame:

Bolt front body (good for R&L) = 10403403
Bolt rear body (good for R&L) = 10410940

If you want to replace the bolt retainers (the big washers):

Bolt retainer front cushion (good for R&L) = 10203412
Bolt retainer rear cushion (good for R&L) = 10203413

Front lower control arms:
arm assy, Lwr Cont 97-00 R/L = 10257535-4
" " 01+ R/L = 10301552-1

^those numbers above are for the complete arm with bushings, the book shows them separate/removed diagram but does not list any part numbers for the bushings separate. I thought it did, my bad. But if you go to the dealership, I am more than sure they can dig them up separate for you, they did for me, thats how I got mine. But its been so long ago since I bought and installed them, the receipt is long gone by now easy.

~F~
 
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